Going single... have a certain turbo in mind is it right for me?
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Going single... have a certain turbo in mind is it right for me?
hey all,
ok here is the deal. My stock twins are about dead, i took it into a local import shop and they verified that indeed my secondary turbo boosts sometimes but its definitely not boosting most of the time, further more they are leaking bad. My boost gauge reads a pattern of 5-0-0. heh, but sometimes its even 1-0-0, once in awhile i can hit 7-8lb of boost.
anyways.. going single and i think i want to go with A-spec GT35R T4 Turbo Kit.
I am looking for something that will give me reliability to be my DD (take into account i usually only drive 3-4 days out of the week if that). But i also want to be fast enough that i can pull away from some of these new cars coming out like the damn WRX's they are everywhere. Also i want somthing that spools fast and will give me some good top end (enough power to make a good pull from 100mph would be nice). right now i can barely pull from 90-100 it sucks when GSR- Civics are pulling from me heh.
so based on what i want is this kit my best option? if i can get the performance for what i am looking for from a kit that will cost me less please let me know! thanks opinions, suggestions, criticism all welcome, just looking for some advice.
ok here is the deal. My stock twins are about dead, i took it into a local import shop and they verified that indeed my secondary turbo boosts sometimes but its definitely not boosting most of the time, further more they are leaking bad. My boost gauge reads a pattern of 5-0-0. heh, but sometimes its even 1-0-0, once in awhile i can hit 7-8lb of boost.
anyways.. going single and i think i want to go with A-spec GT35R T4 Turbo Kit.
I am looking for something that will give me reliability to be my DD (take into account i usually only drive 3-4 days out of the week if that). But i also want to be fast enough that i can pull away from some of these new cars coming out like the damn WRX's they are everywhere. Also i want somthing that spools fast and will give me some good top end (enough power to make a good pull from 100mph would be nice). right now i can barely pull from 90-100 it sucks when GSR- Civics are pulling from me heh.
so based on what i want is this kit my best option? if i can get the performance for what i am looking for from a kit that will cost me less please let me know! thanks opinions, suggestions, criticism all welcome, just looking for some advice.
Last edited by fabes21; 09-07-07 at 06:24 PM.
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thanks and ya i spent about 3 hours reading old threads and visiting links. so i did research.
I dont know much about what options are currently the best choices, most the threads regarding this topic are about 3-5 years old, search your self and see
I dont know much about what options are currently the best choices, most the threads regarding this topic are about 3-5 years old, search your self and see
#4
Elliot at Turblown can build you a very high quality turbo kit with what ever turbo you feel is right for you. Probably something from the T04e family, a 57 trim or a 60 trim. He can be reached through www.turblown.net
If you are going to go with A-spec I would probably look into his non ball bearing GT3574 kits, they are almost a $1000 cheaper than and have very similar response and power characteristics to the GT35r kits.
If you are going to go with A-spec I would probably look into his non ball bearing GT3574 kits, they are almost a $1000 cheaper than and have very similar response and power characteristics to the GT35r kits.
#5
And yet now I got most of the parts, I'm still researching into the subject. In one way to answer your question is what are you after? power, performance, torque, relaibilty or combinaton of all. In many of cases of ours, the determining factor was our target vs cost and budget.
I get some feeling when the guy from Aspec tuning was qouting me prices he was measuring the distance between the earth and moon so I've contact Rx7store and Jason was very helpful (if he or anyone else manages to asnwer the phone ).
If I were you I'd work out my budget 1st and how much you are prepared to stretch it. Next, work out if you want to buy a whole kit set or buy seperate parts and stages. The main 3 stages you can break a single turbo conversion to are:
1. turbo charger and manifold, gaskets, oil feed and return, cooling (wether you already got FMIC or not) and upgrading your stock radiator.
2. fueling system, inc injectors, pump, fuel rails and lines
3. ECU and fuel management
Some other things you might want to consider is upgrading the brakes, you want to stop before you hit that wall.
I have gone for a GT4088 for the time being and will see how this will run on the car, as everyhing else is in place including 850cc primary injectors and 1600cc secondary injectors, Rotorsports secondary fuel rail, dual Walbro fuel pumps (not installed yet but looking to run two fuel lines instead of joining them together in Y form), Koyo aluminium radiator, Apexi FC Commander and EC, Apexi AVCR Boost controller, Apexi SVAC II fuel/air controller.
If I'm happy with the GT4088 then I will keep it, if its not enough, then I might go up to GT42 or GT45. I'm surprised I have done this much considering $$$ is tight as I'm rebuilding a Honda B16a engine at the same time to turbo charge that. But if you asked me, stick with the rotary, there far much less parts to replace on a rotary engine than a damn piston engine.
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3 hours research is a good start, but some of us here spent weeks .... I have read tons of threads on here as well as other forums, been on the phone to Aspec tuning and rx7store.net, compared various turbos feedback and cost escpially between the Garrett/Turbotechnics/PowerMaster/Precision turbo chargers.
And yet now I got most of the parts, I'm still researching into the subject. In one way to answer your question is what are you after? power, performance, torque, relaibilty or combinaton of all. In many of cases of ours, the determining factor was our target vs cost and budget.
I get some feeling when the guy from Aspec tuning was qouting me prices he was measuring the distance between the earth and moon so I've contact Rx7store and Jason was very helpful (if he or anyone else manages to asnwer the phone ).
If I were you I'd work out my budget 1st and how much you are prepared to stretch it. Next, work out if you want to buy a whole kit set or buy seperate parts and stages. The main 3 stages you can break a single turbo conversion to are:
1. turbo charger and manifold, gaskets, oil feed and return, cooling (wether you already got FMIC or not) and upgrading your stock radiator.
2. fueling system, inc injectors, pump, fuel rails and lines
3. ECU and fuel management
Some other things you might want to consider is upgrading the brakes, you want to stop before you hit that wall.
I have gone for a GT4088 for the time being and will see how this will run on the car, as everyhing else is in place including 850cc primary injectors and 1600cc secondary injectors, Rotorsports secondary fuel rail, dual Walbro fuel pumps (not installed yet but looking to run two fuel lines instead of joining them together in Y form), Koyo aluminium radiator, Apexi FC Commander and EC, Apexi AVCR Boost controller, Apexi SVAC II fuel/air controller.
If I'm happy with the GT4088 then I will keep it, if its not enough, then I might go up to GT42 or GT45. I'm surprised I have done this much considering $$$ is tight as I'm rebuilding a Honda B16a engine at the same time to turbo charge that. But if you asked me, stick with the rotary, there far much less parts to replace on a rotary engine than a damn piston engine.
And yet now I got most of the parts, I'm still researching into the subject. In one way to answer your question is what are you after? power, performance, torque, relaibilty or combinaton of all. In many of cases of ours, the determining factor was our target vs cost and budget.
I get some feeling when the guy from Aspec tuning was qouting me prices he was measuring the distance between the earth and moon so I've contact Rx7store and Jason was very helpful (if he or anyone else manages to asnwer the phone ).
If I were you I'd work out my budget 1st and how much you are prepared to stretch it. Next, work out if you want to buy a whole kit set or buy seperate parts and stages. The main 3 stages you can break a single turbo conversion to are:
1. turbo charger and manifold, gaskets, oil feed and return, cooling (wether you already got FMIC or not) and upgrading your stock radiator.
2. fueling system, inc injectors, pump, fuel rails and lines
3. ECU and fuel management
Some other things you might want to consider is upgrading the brakes, you want to stop before you hit that wall.
I have gone for a GT4088 for the time being and will see how this will run on the car, as everyhing else is in place including 850cc primary injectors and 1600cc secondary injectors, Rotorsports secondary fuel rail, dual Walbro fuel pumps (not installed yet but looking to run two fuel lines instead of joining them together in Y form), Koyo aluminium radiator, Apexi FC Commander and EC, Apexi AVCR Boost controller, Apexi SVAC II fuel/air controller.
If I'm happy with the GT4088 then I will keep it, if its not enough, then I might go up to GT42 or GT45. I'm surprised I have done this much considering $$$ is tight as I'm rebuilding a Honda B16a engine at the same time to turbo charge that. But if you asked me, stick with the rotary, there far much less parts to replace on a rotary engine than a damn piston engine.
I have already upgraded my radiator got a standard aluminum Koyo. As far as piecing together a turbo system or getting a kit which is cheaper? I would have to say if its even possible i would like to stay around 3k. $$$ is tight here also, just sold my B18c1-EK hatch, as a matter of fact because damn Honda's get stolen around here like its nobodies business. lost alot of money in the Honda scene. I figure im gonna be piecing it together cause i probably wont have enough to buy it all at once.
Now as far as the difference of all these turbos is there a "standard" way to categorize them? like i see GT35, T04, T4, 500 something... do they just name then what they want? or do the names correlate to something specific?
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#8
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The 35R T4 with the 1.0 A/r is a great all around performer, most people only run them to about 15-16psi, depending on the build and other factors you can see as much as mid 400whp at those levels. Not too bad. It wont drop off up top either and when pushed can still make pretty solid high numbers as well.
The GT3574 works well because of its wheel/turbine A/r combo. It has the ability to make good solid power and give good response. It compares well with the 35R T4 but will lose just a bit up top when pushed harder. If you don't plan to run tons of boost or have a limited budget this may be for you.
Me personally I think the 35R T4 is a slightly funner car overall than the GT3574. But I've never had a chance to run the two with comparable builds side by side.
As far as names go, some names are company specific, for instance my 500R is made here, it uses parts from three separate turbo's so technically I can name it whatever I feel fits it. The turbo can produce enough power for a 500whp car without being inefficient so that's where that name came from. The 3574 goes along the same lines. I use 35R compressor wheels and parts along with a larger 74mm turbine. That's where that name comes from 3574. I used to get so many requests for a nonBB 35R and that was my solution. T3,T4,T6 are all turbine inlet sizes. TO4 is a family of turbo's. Anything with a GT coming from garrett utilizes GT series wheels. R designates a BB CHRA.
If your running stock ports don't even bother looking at 40R's or such they will lag and be no where near what you've described your after.
Pricing reflects, what your getting for the most part. Stay away from ebay manifolds, as well as ebay WG's and BOV's usually when something seems just too good a price it most likely is when it comes to that stuff on there. You want your stuff to be reliable you said. That stuff is not. If you have any questions feel free to shoot me a email or PM. I can and will go over everything with you on your choice.
The GT3574 works well because of its wheel/turbine A/r combo. It has the ability to make good solid power and give good response. It compares well with the 35R T4 but will lose just a bit up top when pushed harder. If you don't plan to run tons of boost or have a limited budget this may be for you.
Me personally I think the 35R T4 is a slightly funner car overall than the GT3574. But I've never had a chance to run the two with comparable builds side by side.
As far as names go, some names are company specific, for instance my 500R is made here, it uses parts from three separate turbo's so technically I can name it whatever I feel fits it. The turbo can produce enough power for a 500whp car without being inefficient so that's where that name came from. The 3574 goes along the same lines. I use 35R compressor wheels and parts along with a larger 74mm turbine. That's where that name comes from 3574. I used to get so many requests for a nonBB 35R and that was my solution. T3,T4,T6 are all turbine inlet sizes. TO4 is a family of turbo's. Anything with a GT coming from garrett utilizes GT series wheels. R designates a BB CHRA.
If your running stock ports don't even bother looking at 40R's or such they will lag and be no where near what you've described your after.
Pricing reflects, what your getting for the most part. Stay away from ebay manifolds, as well as ebay WG's and BOV's usually when something seems just too good a price it most likely is when it comes to that stuff on there. You want your stuff to be reliable you said. That stuff is not. If you have any questions feel free to shoot me a email or PM. I can and will go over everything with you on your choice.
#9
They work out pretty close, I would suggest to buy the kit seperatley only if you haven't got the money for it all in once or if the kit on offer has different spec or turbo from what you want. Before I bought anything it looked like I'm either going for Garrett or Turbotechnics, and intially I was recommended the GKT 650 which is close between GT42 and GT45 and was going for $1600. in the Garrett family, any GT R means it has ball bearing. But there is no way to categorise these turbos, the manufacturers will give expected hp produced at maximum flow and at the flywheel. For around $3K, you can pick up the GT40 kit from rx7store.net good for 700hp+ flywheel power .. You can buy any combination of the kit, example everything but the turbo charger, or without down pipe, etc. Just tell them what you don't want and they will take it out and adjust the price. If I were you and got the money I'd just order everything in one go, saves on the shipping when ordering again ..
I can't put my kit on yet because my engine needs rebuilding and this will probably start in October.
You might want to check these two sites ..
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/
http://www.turboneticsinc.com/
I can't put my kit on yet because my engine needs rebuilding and this will probably start in October.
You might want to check these two sites ..
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/
http://www.turboneticsinc.com/
#10
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I've been extremely happy with the fit and finish of my A-Spec 500R kit, and boost response on the street has been very nice given the larger compressor wheel----15 psi by 3500-3800 dependant on gear.
Search in this section under my username and 'threads started by user' to find my 500R buildup thread, with lots of pics and info
Search in this section under my username and 'threads started by user' to find my 500R buildup thread, with lots of pics and info
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maybe i have this all wrong but since this is a highway car...so lag does not REALLY matter... a gt4094r will produce some serious power numbers.....if you dont mind the lag. But if you are making highway pulls from 100mph, a car that hits boost in the 4xxxs isnt a big deal. The 4094 is good for 75lb of air......if you can deal with the high boost..... 30+psi, you are good...One thing is good for dealing with high boost....METHANOL. Run pump gas and methanol using some form of meth controller like FJO or cooling mist and you can make those people running race gas look silly. Im to lazy to dothe math but the 4094 can put out 700ish hp. Im sure you can pull some ****** in a honda with that much....unless you loose traction......i give you props if youloose traction at 100 and still burn the honda. Post vids when you make the honda look like a bitch.
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Thanks all, Especially Zero R very helpful, sounds like you know your stuff!! Goodfella ya i seen your vids with your setup, sounds nice man. I called Aspec and they said like 7g's for that kit? not in my budget but it looks like alot of fun.
#14
Iam also running the 500r and can vouch for it as being very good setup The spool is awesome at about 15 PSI at 3500 to 4000 depending on your porting.
As far as Evos,Subbys or civics dont worry a bit my car runs door to door with a 2007 Zo6 at 15 PSI and they make 450 WHP stock
The Kit is one of the best out there with the best parts and should be under 4K but if you are stock you will definately need a Clutch,Fuel system,Programing,IC,and a big set of ***** to drive it
As far as Evos,Subbys or civics dont worry a bit my car runs door to door with a 2007 Zo6 at 15 PSI and they make 450 WHP stock
The Kit is one of the best out there with the best parts and should be under 4K but if you are stock you will definately need a Clutch,Fuel system,Programing,IC,and a big set of ***** to drive it
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