I'm looking forward to the Garrett Gt35r for my setup here soon and seems to not find any threads on this turbo when running only 93 pump gas. I see people running their setup with meth/ water, or going e85. My setup is a rebuilt streetport 13b-REW (power FC Running), 2mm SS, 2x850cc(stock) 2x2200cc(Bosch), RP Secondary Rail and RP pump (no pressure regulator), Megan Racing T3 housing mani, Tial v44 WG (.7 spring), 3inch down pipe to all the way back, and HKS evcs boost control and Innovate Wideband. Want to upgrade to a M2 Mid Intercooler since I have the XS power Mid Intercooler currently.
Question is what max whp I will be looking at with this turbo on pump gas only and max boost pressure. Or is it a too small of a turbo to reach 400-430whp and will have to go with e85 or water/meth to reach those numbers on a dynojet since Rotary Performance have this type of dyno.
Any suggestions and feedback will help thank you

 

For what I have seen, 15- 17psi for 400whp dynojet numbers, but I would use water just to be safe. There is always the tuning factor, the running is the key. Your other mods sounds good to support that kind of power. Let us know how it goes.

 

Don't upgrade your intercooler, add water injection instead. Yes you can achieve 400+hp on pump gas and the GT35R. T4 housing with 1.06 hot side. If you are going with the Garrett, may as well consider the GTX35R. It will give you a bit more.

Honestly it's a good turbo and plenty of people run them. 400+ rear wheel is plenty in these cars. Much more than that and your driveline will break and you won't be able to put the power down unless you run slicks.

 

'twas the go-to turbo 5-10 years ago before the new gen turbos came out. There is plenty of info out there. 400hp would be about the limit depending on what bullshit mode the dyno is on. Should be pretty responsive and fast spooling.

 

Do you mean steel science seals? I thought every recorded install was very premature failure/comp loss/housing wear? If you haven't actually run the motor I'd be pulling it down and putting anything else in.

If you want more power a gt3788 is a heaps better investment than gtx35, the compressor and turbine are a better match and in aus at least they are the same price as a 35r and much cheaper than gtx

 

Better? Well then just get an EFR8374. End of thread,

 

how many of these threads does the OP need to get the information he is looking for?

 

It seems that the EFR's all need a lot of boost to make their power though, like > 20 PSI and is that really possible on a lot of setups using pump gas? Hence, why the older GT35's, BW S360, S362, T04S/R or Hybrid, etc. are still popular despite being a bit lazier?

 

Uhhhh, no. Not at all. Pretty much everything except the 9180 are in the butter-zone under 20psi. Guys are running these turbos at several psi less than what they ran their GT35Rs at and are making the same, if not more power.

 

the GT3582r, having been around for quite a while, has gone thru a few iterations. the original. the uprated model w the ported shroud, the GTX version and most recently the GT3584RS.

GT35 generated rotary potential hp varies from around 467 (at 24 psi) to 655 depending on the model.

max power assumes that the turbine wheel and housing are able to drive the compressor to the right side of the compressor map. given the general Garrett tendency to offer smallish hotsides this is no small matter.

combine the mismatch w the rotary motors need for more flow to produce power equal to a piston motor and you have an issue as to max output.

this makes your hotside housing choice important. if you are looking for 400+ from your GT35 it will be important for you to have the 1.06 housing and also that it be divided.

further challenging your setup is your T3 flange. the T3 is 36% smaller than the T4 which is usually used for our cars. Megan sells a divided T4.

i am also concerned re your single 44 WG. while there are other factors that can define WG performance the single 44, w a 2.35 sq inch piston area, may be challenged to hold low boost.
a single Tial 60 has 86% more piston area.

you need to add AI to offset the tremendous combustion chamber pressure and heat.

while 400 is a mid range power level it is NOT mid range as far as internal engine stress.

460 fwhp/400 rwhp is 5.75 hp (fw) per cubic inch.

let's compare to a 2016 Corvette Supercharged ZO6

650 fwhp 378 cubic inches or 1.75 hp per cubic inch

if we use the same power per cubic inch as a 460 fwhp/400 rwhp rotary
we would be looking at a 2173 fwhp Corvette!


is it any wonder things need to be just right or...

as numerous forum members have previously posted...

you need to add AI to yourcar.

here's a link to what should be a sticky thread for all turbo'd rotary owners:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...fd-fix-806104/

as an added bonus AI will keep your motor internals squeaky clean.

pls do not take the above as offered to you in anything but a constructive manner.

good luck,

Howard

 

Great information but in my case it's not about how much horsepower a turbo can make, but the power band I want to use the car for. I am on sequential twins right now and to be honest they are pretty good but when I'm not cruising on public roads this car is being thrashed on tracks like Brands Hatch, Silverstone, Snetterton, Oulton Park, etc. I have found two issues with my sequential setup: (I) very obviously running out of puff around 6500 rpm despite having a redline of around 8000 rpm, and (II) very difficult to drive out of tight corners and/or when coming out of corners in damp or wet weather because the sequential system results in instant full boost anywhere above 2500 rpm.

So, if I am coming out of a tight corner in 2nd where RPMs drop below 4000, I have issues even when using 1/4 throttle as the boost spikes to max and then as you are straightening out the transition hits at 4500 and the car wants to snap oversteer. Then down the straight the car is obviously out of puff between 6500-7000 rpm but you want to shift near 8000 to keep the car in the meat of the power band in the next gear. So, for me I think an ideal turbo even before thinking about the power it can make, is one that starts to boost around 3200-3500 rpm but doesn't reach max boost until closer to 4000 rpm whilst pulling all the way to at least 7000 rpm before the power starts to fall off (so another 1000 rpm of top end beyond the twins). That to me sounds like an ideal track turbo as the car will be much more predictable and easy to drive whilst having the top end rush it needs to maximise speed on straights.

Yes, I am not the best driver so a better one might not have my issues.

I'm not sure what turbo that is on stock ports or a street port though.

 

You've already pointed out your weakness. Adding a bigger turbo that will make more power will only make this much worse. It may not be in the meat of the new turbo but even at lowwer boost levels you will make that power or more then you currently make. Im in a fc with a large streetport and can tell you that even that setup has similar issues. Its all in learning when to transition into the throttle and how much. Or looking at other parts of your setup such as tires. A different compound will lead to a different corner reaction.

Myself? Ill be going to a TDx61 setup soon. Its based of the gt35. Made by turblown. Should take a look into that

 

You can set it non-sequential in the pfc by lowering the transition rpms...

 

If you are looking for the most responsive, and linear single turbo system on the market its definitely our cast EFR IWG turbo system. The 8374 model will hold power to 8500 rpms on the right ports, and make more power than most street tire combos can hold( 550-600rwhp).

Our TDX based turbos are also another choice for those who already have a single turbo like the GT35R, and want an upgrade with a larger powerband. The TDX61 has the same size compressor, but mated to a larger 74mm turbine wheel. It does not have the response of the 8374 however( 8374 is the exact same size as our TDX62). The TDX62 just has a 1mm larger compressor wheel vs the TDX61 FYI. The TDX61 will make 100 more rwhp roughly over a GT35R for example.

Personally I would never ever recommend or use a GT35R on a rotary again.

 

Spoken from the creators of the TDX turbos. I'd take his words for consideration.

 

Yeah, the EFT 8374 looks amazing. I looked up a couple of dynos on stock ports and the torque curve and power band is really nice, even on pump gas. Does this turbo or the TDX61 fit on the side of the motor with the stock air pump? Emissions and all need to remain.

Yeah, I know. I track my car with a high flow cat. Still looks good and hasn't clogged or broken down!

 

Mate, Go with the gt35 or the gtx35 if you can The 1.06 t4 divided housing will do the job But... I strongly advice you to change the final ratio for the rx8 one With that setup you will have no lag and will be perfect for the circuit If you want a bit more you can change the 5th gear for the jap vercion that is 0.8 and not 0.7 so the rpms will not drop that much from 4th to 5th Drawback , well quite uncomfy to drive on the hiway But for the city you can drive it even better I have an gt3586 hta with all the mods that i told you and my car is just perfect on the circuit , im in love with it Think about 380 to 420 whp , you dont need more anyways Better to try to get some weight off than make more power , specially if you want it for the track , more power or bigger turbo will make it more laggier and will be easier to brake the drive line.

And use the 60mm tial wastegate , smaller than that is a risk

 

Airpump fitment is all in the turbo manifold. Our cast kit will clear the 8374 with some mods, details are on our Turbosource website.

 

Cool, I will check it out. I assume I will need to have a custom downpipe made to fit my right hand drive 99 Type RS since the steering rack will likely be in the way. Good to know there is potentially a solution though. Prior to learning about the 8374 cast manifold I only knew of the HKS T04S kit that came with a cast manifold, downpipe, etc. fits with the air pump and RHD steering rack.