Upgrade to 850/1600 with dual pumps, FPR and around 15 PSI on pump gas would put you in the low 400's. You'd be able to bump the PSI up to 20 to throw you into the 500's with this setup, but you would need more than just pump gas to do so.

~CYD

 

Thanks mono, i may just have to take you up on your offer. maybe a christmas present to myself haha.

 

I used to use 550 primes and 1300 seconds with a Denso pump. This was covering 420hp and good up to 500fwhp from what I understand. You may need to bump it up a bit for 500 to the rear

 

My fuel kit just came in. I bought it used from st8ryd. 1680cc secondaries with rotary extreme rail, 720cc primaries with KG Parts rail. SARD FPR and some braided lines. Came with a walbro, not sure if I'll include that in a twin pump set up yet or not.

The injectors came with clips and resistors already wired to the clips, do I need resistors if I have the TEC GT ems?

And since it came with braided lines AN lines, i was thinking about using them haha. but how do I go from my stock fuel lines (where they are held to the top of the engine by the bracket and short metal lines) to the AN lines. I was thinking that I should remove the bracket with the short metal hard lines and use this adapter to go straight from the braided lines to the long fuel lines that go all the way back to the tank (tie in by the oil filter).

Will the attached adapter work? will the inside diameter of the stock lines fit the barbed end? If not, or there is something better, please let me know.

I'm looking forward to 500whp.

 

It depends on your ems. Does it run saturated (high impedance) or peak and hold (low impedance)

If it can do peak and hold, remove the resistors and run the injectors directly. If it runs saturated only, then leave the resistors in.

 

Ok, I have determined that the TEC system can support Peak and Hold, so no resistors needed.

Can anyone comment on the link in my last post for connecting my stock lines to the braided lines on the new rails?
Thanks

 

If you're using 6an braided lines they will slide right over the factory hard fuel lines. The KG rails are tapped with 3/8" thread if I recall correctly. Use a 90 degree fitting out of each end of the rail.

 

sweet, hopefully they will be long enough once i get them in place so I can cut the ends off, as they already have fittings on the ends. I think I'll have plenty though. Thanks again.

next on the list is the FPR, It is an SARD FPR, plumbed to the secondary rail. This was already on an rx-7 so I think it will be pretty close to ready to go. Do I just adjust that to a desired fuel pressure once its all installed?

 

What do you guys think about running a single Aeromotive Tsunami pump in tank? click me

 

anybody?

 

Why not go with one/two of these??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=110342849384

Are you gonna run a parallel fuel setup?

 

I found the one I listed for $200, which is only 50 more than the denso, and it flows much better I think. THats way cheaper than buying two densos and making a twin pump holder. I just wanted to know if the quality of the aeromotive is good and if it flows better than the standard twin pump setup at normal voltage levels

 

I've got the rails, injectors and new clips installed. Now I'm trying to plumb everything in.

The rails came with braided lines already set to run the rails in series. Its hard to find the AN fittings around here and I'm running out of time, so I'm not sure if I'd be able to run everything parallel and still make my tune date. Can I run in series and still be fine for over 500whp?

If so, then i'm planning to run the secondaries first in the series and then into the primary rail, then into the FPR, then to the return. will this do it or do i need to be in parallel for this much power?

 

Its all installed (in series), how do I properly pressure test it? I just saw a thread about a car that caught fire because of a leak that wasn't known about. Don't want that to happen.

I've got an SARD Fuel pressure regulator with a guage, is this all i need?

 

Open your diagnostic box and place a jumper wire from the GND pin to the F/P pin. Then turn the key to the position. This will prime you fuel system. Check carefuly for leaks then adjust your FPR accordingly. After it's adjusted turn the key off remove the jumper wire and you are good to go.

Always prime your system befor you start your car afterworking on the fuel system . The first timeI upgradedmine I hooked the return line to the charcoal canister and dumped fuel under the car

 

I have a walbro wired in differently than stock. So it turns on for a few seconds as soon as i turn the key. If i cycle it a few times is that good enough?

Should the FPR gauge be showing pressure if the car is off? And how do I adjust it? If I can't see the gauge from inside the car to tell how much pressure it allows when under boost.

 

Yes the gauge should read with just cycling the key, and should not bleed off before you can get to look at it.
You should adjust the f/p regulator with the car running and the vacumn line off.
I run 42psi base pressure but others dont!

 

charlie, are you coming to st.louis this summer?

 

When I had my walbro, the car wouldn't hold fuel pressure. Don't know if mine had a bad check ball, or if they're all that way......

My RX7.com denso pump does though.

If you have to, just jumper some power to it temporairily and adjust the base pressure with no vaccum on the regulator.

 

Thanks for the info, since busted runs 42psi base, and others don't, what do you others run, i just need something conservative to drive around on for a couple of days, Ray at PF Supercars is tuning it next wednesday if i finish it in time.

 

Also, now that i have a huge pump, there is no screen thing on the bottom like walbros have. inlet is huge, what do i use?

 

42psi base pressure is pretty standard. Anything right around 40psi will do you for now

 

Sweet, just hooked it all up. Because the walbro is in, it does loose pressure as soon as the pump shuts off. But while its on it stays at 42. No leaks that I can see so far.

I'm working to figure out how to mount the new Tsunami pump now. It looks like it'll fit ok, can i just take the screen from the walbro, cut it, and then clamp it straight over the input on the new pump. so instead of having a little bag screen thing hanging off, it will be pulled up tight around the input. Any thoughts?

 

If i understand what your asking about the fuel filter sock i would not position it tight aganist the intake it will stop up very easy becouse there is no volume of filtering.
I dont have the answer for you on this pump but i would ask what others have done with this pump.

Eric i would like to come to St Louis but i dont know yet!

 

Thanks Busted, thats exactly what i was trying to explain. What if i just put a small hose on the inlet and clamp a generic inline filter to it and just let that sit on its side at the bottom of the tank?