Hi

I am currently in the process of getting all the parts together for my single turbo Setup for my Series 7 FD

What I have so far
Stock ported Motor
Apexi Power FC
Greddy LS FMIC
Greddy compression tube
Koyorad N-Flo radiator
Blitz SSD Blow off valve

Parts not yet fitted :

KG Parts fuel rails (primary and secondary)
Injectors stock 550 cc primary and 1680cc Bosch secondaries


Parts in transit :

Garrett T04E AR60 turbo kit with 50 mm Wastegate ( bought secondhand from Japan not shure about the compressor wheel size ) but seller said he maid between 350 to 400 HP
Kyosan Denso Fuelpump ( upgraded Denso Supra pump)

Now here my question , whats your recommendation on the FPR >
I was thinking of going with the SARD type R and wanted to know if this would be a good choice ?

Sard - Fuel Regulator - 8mm Nipple - Nengun Performance

 

I used to have a sard, and used it for many years, and at least 10k miles.
I switched to a fuel lab because of size, and fittings change when I went with new rails.

Just plan your lines/routing and you should be good. SARD makes a lot of adapters for their fittings, so thats a plus if it is hard for you to source these to Pretoria

 

Hi there, im also in the process of going single on my series 7

I got the fuelab mini FPR as well.
It can make for a really clean, simple install when installed on the end of the rail like the FFE kit. (I don't know if it will fit on the end of the KG rails, someone else may know)

From what I understand though, Sard make good regs, and the price looks good as well

You cant use your stock primaries with the KG primary rail if you were intending to do that. You need to use the stock primary rail unless you get new primary (top feed) injectors.

What kind of car did this setup come out of? I may be wrong, but that wastegate / dump pipe setup has me doubting if it will fit in an FD with that manifold.
To me, it looks like the wastegate is going to stick out too much and is going to hit the edge of the engine bay, and the forward twisting dump tube strikes me as odd

EDIT: I think I found the action for your kit. Looks like it was on an FD but the turbo sticks up out of the bonnet

 

fuel lab here as well.

 

fuel lab or Aeromotive will work just fine, those stock 550cc injectors are not going to fit in the kg primary rail they are side feed. You will need to do 850cc or 1000cc top feed

 

are you sure that turbo kit is going to fit

 

I will get the manifold redone ( i know it will stick out the bonnet lol ) Plenty of good welders in South Africa .
Just bought it as it was a genuine Garrett and cost me 107500 Yen shipped with all fees :-) only thing that will come on top is the import duty
The package has already a power FC Greddy Elbow and custom V mount intercoller , had to strike at that bargain .

I never thought about the stock primaries not fitting with the fuel rail . I want to keep the stock 550s and just upgrade the secondaries . Can i keep the stock primary rail with stock injectors and just install the secondary rail with the 1680 Bosch injectors ?

 

Yep, no problem. That's what ill be doing. I will be running the stock primaries/stock primary rail, and the aftermarket secondary rail/ injectors.

 

I've seen some third party testing of a handful of regulators and Turbosmart was head and shoulders above most.

 

Purchased now the Sard regulator from Nengun , i think the price is just really great .
When i run stock primary rail and KG parts secondary , is there anything else i must do to the primary except deleting the Fuel pulsation damper ?

 

you will need a way to connect the primary rail to the secondary rail. AN easy way is to get a banjo adapter that allows you to use the stock line to connect the stock primary & aftermarket secondary rails together.

Like this..(not sure if this will fit the KG rail or not)
OEM Banjo Line Adapter | Full Function Engineering

 

you can move your stock 850cc into the primary rail for more fuel, you will have to shave the rail down.

 

the KG rail sucks, i ditched them after they started leaking/cracking around the joints. FFE rails are way better, and they give you a few options..

Fuel System | Product Categories | Full Function Engineering

 

I googled a bit arround and bought now these adapters for the primary rail

Fuel Rail Adapter 93 96 Mazda RX7 FD3S 13B REW 6 An 6 An An 6 | eBay

My last question would be should i hook up the rails in paralell or in series ( like the stock system )
What is the advantages and disadvantages of each method ?

 

http://www.adaptronic.com.au/articles/

 

Decided now that i will set up my system in Series , as my power goals are somewhere between 350 - 400 WHP only . Attched a quick pic of how i plan to set it up

 

Your diagram is backwards the feed should be on the left and return on the right Makes no difference for working out what fittings you need though.

I think once you get in there you will want to remove the stock rubber hose and will probably want to run the feed/return directly from the stock hard lines.

It makes sense to run them to the hard line at the fire wall and delete the one on top of the engine because it reduces the number of connections.

Don't bother trying to go from stock hard line, to stock rubber hose, to your new hoses. Just go from stock hard lines straight to your new hose /rails

 

Thanks for pointing out that my diagram is backwards . I saw a setup on youtube (pictures attached ) that was like that and thought i just copy it as it looked very clean and simple.
Meanwhile i found a picture the other way arround on Banzai racings page http://www.banzai-racing.com/morais/...tem_after4.jpg ( which confirms what you said )
Also thank you for pointing out to delete the rubber lines all together . I bought 4 Meter of hose which should be enough to be able to delete the rubber hose all together . i just ordered all the fittings , but will have a look what fitting i need to connect the AN6 line to the Hard line . Do you maybe know what size the hard line is , so i can get the right fitting ?

 

Umm. No.

His diagram is correct. The regulator in a return style system goes after the fuel rails...

 

x2.

 

I know that.. I think you guys miss understood what i mean..

what i mean is his diagram is backward because the feed line should be the line on the left in the red circle and the return on the right..so its currently backwards.

His layout and everything is correct but im just saying his diagram is not drawn in the direction that fuel flows if you consider the lines in the red circle to be the hard lines

edit, just made this, here's how its laid out, in relation to where the hard lines are physically situated and what ends the hoses enter the rails etc.

 

Another question that I came across now . Must I apply some sort of sealer on the AN and NPT threads ? If yes which one . I saw the previous owner had something that looked like Teflon tape on the NPT fittings . My understanding is the AN fittings need nothing on the thread . Just not Shure what to put on the NPT threads . Teflon tape just doesn't seem right to me because it's made for water and not for all the chemicals in fuel .

 

AN fittings are not supposed to need any sealant. However I have had issues and found a fuel safe sealant by permatex. I had a small fire because of a fuel drip on my hot heatshield. My buddy caught it right away and put it out. This was because of a cheap summit racing hose end. I since ditched those. I pressurized the system and there were leaks. Biggest thing is buy quality fittings.

I have the luxury of living down the street to the original earls shop and talked to one of the creators of the original swivel seal fittings. He said most brands are crap, which makes sense as he sells earls but to pick a brand and stick to it. Even tho 37 degrees is 37 degrees there is some minute differences it seems. I now buy all my stuff thru this shop because it's way easier to return when there is an issue and worth the couple dollars savings over online prices. The earls shop is the same as anplumbing.com

 

Yep npt fittings need sealant . I'm using Loctite 567 hydraulic sealant ( its fuel safe )