FMIC for 42r?
#1
FMIC for 42r?
Hey guys, I need input for intercooler sizing. I'm looking for 3" inlet/outlets to match the 3" outlet on the compressor. I'm also looking for top mount inlet/outlets to minimize the pressure drop. I'm sure a 3 row would be advantageous at my level. SO my question is people that have experience!
Where did you find your 3 row FMIC? And for recap: I'm in the need for one with 3" a inlet/outlets and I prefer 3 row with top feed outlets. Thanks!
-Lance Mayhon
Where did you find your 3 row FMIC? And for recap: I'm in the need for one with 3" a inlet/outlets and I prefer 3 row with top feed outlets. Thanks!
-Lance Mayhon
#2
Alright, I'm going to bump this. I have two intercoolers in mind. Each has the same "over-all" dimensions though one is 4" thick and the other is 3" thick. The two sizes are 24x12x3 CORE and 24x12x4 CORE. Both have a overall length of 30.5 which I will verify today in my shop if it will fit in the front end.
My question is about the overall area. Would I benefit with a 4" core? I'm going to break 600whp with my streetport. I was going to this winter open my motor again and go with bridgeport, though I don't have the time. The bridgeport will have to wait for next season.
Can anyone calculate each intercoolers efficiency with the 42r's characteristics?
My question is about the overall area. Would I benefit with a 4" core? I'm going to break 600whp with my streetport. I was going to this winter open my motor again and go with bridgeport, though I don't have the time. The bridgeport will have to wait for next season.
Can anyone calculate each intercoolers efficiency with the 42r's characteristics?
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I bought my Greddy 3row from Jason @ the RX7 store. Its worked great with my GT42R combo for over 2years now. No heat soak what so ever. The only way to get anything bigger would be to custom make your own and get a spearco core and endtanks.
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#8
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I run a 18l x 13.25h x 4.5t V-mounted setup. Shot of my mess was posted by someone else here.
https://www.rx7club.com/rx-7-audio-visual-lounge-143/neon-orange-fds-look-good-716449/
https://www.rx7club.com/rx-7-audio-visual-lounge-143/neon-orange-fds-look-good-716449/
#9
^ I was actually going to PM you for your opinion Sean... What do you think of the two core sizes I talked of before? They are 24x12x3 CORE and 24x12x4 CORE. Both have an overall length of 30.5 so they are just like the Greddy 2 rows. I'm shooting for 600whp this year maybe upper 6's with the Bridgeport next season.
#10
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I would say that in my opinion you will gain more response by going with a thicker core over a longer core. At least that is what I saw here playing around with some stuff. That is why I decided to run the core I did. I wanted to stay under 18" in length. You will get more cooling on the longer core but you will also notice more drag going through the core. The little amount of cooling you gain after 18" is not worth the drag gained in my opinion. If absolute response is not a huge concern I say go with the 24L core. 4"thick would be nice but I'm not a fan of sticking a 4" thick core in front of a radiator unless you have a way to get around it and directly to the radiator. I bounced my head on the wall forever till I finally chose the core I did for my car. I bell mouthed and baffled the charge side and the difference in the way it flowed was huge. I totally am happy with the way the IC turned out. I got good flow and good charge cooling.
Another big concern is to find out at what pressure they rated the flow of the core your looking at. Obviously it will flow more at 20psi than say at 10psi. The problem you run into is X manufacturer has a 24 x 12 x 3 core and Y manufacturer has a 24 x 12 x 3 core as well. But if one tests 900cfm at 20psi and one at 850cfm 10psi you can be misled into thinking the 20psi one flows more. While those numbers are drastic it was to illustrate the point. Flow is also not THE most important thing it needs to be balanced with cooling. Most Ebay cores flow great but they cool only marginally when pushed. This is because of their low fin density. Hope that answered what you wanted. You'll find sizing a IC is about as easy as sizing a turbo you have many choices
Another big concern is to find out at what pressure they rated the flow of the core your looking at. Obviously it will flow more at 20psi than say at 10psi. The problem you run into is X manufacturer has a 24 x 12 x 3 core and Y manufacturer has a 24 x 12 x 3 core as well. But if one tests 900cfm at 20psi and one at 850cfm 10psi you can be misled into thinking the 20psi one flows more. While those numbers are drastic it was to illustrate the point. Flow is also not THE most important thing it needs to be balanced with cooling. Most Ebay cores flow great but they cool only marginally when pushed. This is because of their low fin density. Hope that answered what you wanted. You'll find sizing a IC is about as easy as sizing a turbo you have many choices
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I want to echo what Sean said and just add that thicker cores are less efficient at transferring heat. The air passing over the fins in the back of the core has been heated by the heat transfer process with the fins in the front. Therefore add as much height as you can (that will get airflow) before adding to the depth.
#12
Sean, I was debating for a long time going with a v-mount. Looking at your v-mount almost makes me rethink it all. I actually have your 42r turbo setup (not purchased through you).
It's really tough to choose between the two! A v-mount has a lower pressure drop and IMO makes the car look nicer. Though, if not properly ducted will KILL performance.
A front mount kit obviously a good location for airflow. But have the combined loss in cooling efficiency and the pressure drop.
Maybe I'll go back to the drawing board here. I honestly think the front mount is less work. I was planning on going with the N-Flow to fight the 4" core. The v-mount will require much attention to ducting and then the conversion to the radiator itself.
Welding is never the problem. It's what happens behinds the scenes that matters...
It's really tough to choose between the two! A v-mount has a lower pressure drop and IMO makes the car look nicer. Though, if not properly ducted will KILL performance.
A front mount kit obviously a good location for airflow. But have the combined loss in cooling efficiency and the pressure drop.
Maybe I'll go back to the drawing board here. I honestly think the front mount is less work. I was planning on going with the N-Flow to fight the 4" core. The v-mount will require much attention to ducting and then the conversion to the radiator itself.
Welding is never the problem. It's what happens behinds the scenes that matters...
#17
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I want to echo what Sean said and just add that thicker cores are less efficient at transferring heat. The air passing over the fins in the back of the core has been heated by the heat transfer process with the fins in the front. Therefore add as much height as you can (that will get airflow) before adding to the depth.