Gorilla RE

iTrader: (1)

Actually, if the map sensor line came off during a run (mainly true in the beginning of the run) it will not cause an engine failure; it will cause the engine to run like crap.

And the same can be said for the fuel pressure regulator line, especially if the regulator being used only has a 1:1 diaphragm in it.

Now, the one line that WILL cause engine failure (if the ecu and other fail safes aren't setup correctly) is the waste gate pressure line. This will blow an engine faster than any other "vacuum line".

The first two lines (MAP and FPR) CAN both cause major issues but the failure of said lines can easily be seen/caught in time if one is monitoring the engine during any and all boost tuning runs. The third line (WG) can also be caught before major engine failure if monitoring everything carefully, but it is MUCH harder to catch an over boosting situation like the one that will occur if the pressure line comes off the WG during a boost run.

-J

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

map sensor line coming off... "it will not cause an engine failure"

as stated above i am going to have to respectfully disagree.

let's assume you are on the dyno at 20 psi w your right foot on the floor and the map sensor line comes off. the map sensor will read read one atmosphere and your motor will be at 1.379 bar.

check what your timing and fuel are at one bar.

probably between 27 and 36 degrees leading V 10-13 at 20 psi

fuel might be a third of 20 psi

ignition changes on the next rotor face, 'think you are going to be able to lift that fast?

fuel pressure line works a touch slower due to the mechanical properties envolved.

i agree on the WG line... it is real easy to overboost. hopefully the map will have protective settings at overboost.

i did not mean to say that all motors will get blown when losing a line but there is a real possibility so 'best make sure they are locked down.

BTW, another item that you want on your FD if you are going to be running 20 psi is a Kenne Bell Boost A Pump (20 Amp model) set at plus 20% V gain.

howard

rx72c

iTrader: (8)

I use brad pen 10-30 in my 700rwhp rx7 works great

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

Do you happen to have an analysis of your used oil?



.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

This may sound stupid, but you know what works really well to prevent vacuum lines from blowing off? Krazy Glue. If you put it on silicone hose it will stick on there but it won't stick so much that you have to cut the line off when you try to remove it. You can still give it a good strong tug and it will slide off. The mess is minimal. I Krazy Glue all my silicone hoses. I've tested it up to 21psi so far.

thewird

iTrader: (8)

I've only ever used zip ties and I have never blown a vacuum line off. Run 20-22 PSi consistently and my motor has seen 24-29 PSi quite a few times due to wastegate failure and quick "repairs" which later failed to said wastegate.

I could care less if my wastegate line pops off, with a properly setup tune and fuel cut, its nothing special. (I personally have my fuel cut at 1.6 bar but thats because I know my map is safe enough up there) Now map and fpr line I'd be very concerned with.

thewird

thelevman

i personally love braid, never melts over the exhaust, screw fittings so it never falls off.


ive previously had the wastegate rubber lines melt on the dyno and a boost pipe pop off, get good t-bolt clamps and if your piping is beaded should be fine, actually come to think of it ive also had the map sensor get a bit of silicon blocking it so ive pretty much experienced all those problems unfortunately

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

lots of good ideas here...

as we were chasing my engine problem on the dyno we did uncover some important items... doing the boost leak check was one of the most eye opening. simply attach the compressor inlet to your air comp, plumb in a boost gauge for reference, crank in air pressure slowly and listen...

we identified leaks around my secondary (1600) injectors. i had used a ring of appropriate diameter heater hose to seal them against the well... on the exterior.
i got the idea off the board. as it turns out i had had the leak for 5 years.

what was the bottom line after the fix?

i made 2 more psi boost off the spring!
spool was almost 500 RPM sooner!
idle is now around 850 instead of 1100 and this is w fairly major ports and overlap!

Luke made me a couple of sleeves that fit in the well and all is well.

interestingly the primary problem w my twin TO4 setup was midrange and i am sure that most of the problem was boost leak.

happy 2011 to all.

howard

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Thanks guys again for all your input.

I went went ahead and ordered a fuel filter from Ray and he gave me a great price and since it was my first time purchasing, they paid for half the shipping cost. I'll be ordering from them again soon!

Going to go ahead and double zip tie the said vacuum hoses today and take the car for a drive to add more miles onto it.

shelldawg

iTrader: (2)

Maintenace To-Do List:

Order/Install OEM fuel filter
Add gallon of bottled water to injection tank
Top off gas tank with 91OCT with 1oz:1gal premix ratio
Order NGK 4 BUR9EQP plugs incase the EGVs have trouble - DONE
Oil change the day before tune
Check all couplings/vacuum hoses


I have a very similar set up to yours except I have 99spec twins and not a single set up. I will also be getting a tune by Steve Kan on the same weekend as you.
I would not go with NGK 4 BUR9EQP plugs. They do not work well with water injection. I learned this the hard way while Steve was tuning my car the last time he was in the Bay Area. Bring an extra set of B10EGV plugs which Steve recommended to me. Also, use distilled water and bring a few extra gallons just in case. You can get a gallon for around 85 cents at Walmart. Keep an eye on the water level while he is tuning.

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Hey! Nice to hear from you. What day are you getting your tune?

Sadly, I've already purchased the EQP plugs from Banzai and they will be here tomorrow...so lets hope for no problems with my EGVs!

I picked up a gallon of "crystal geyser" water from Safeway for 99cents. I'll go ahead and buy another one for a spare. I'm also going to bring some oil and coolant just in case.

I'm just hoping that everything goes well but I am sort of nervous!

thewird

iTrader: (8)

I use tap water for my water injection >_>

thewird

shelldawg

iTrader: (2)

I'll be getting my tune on Saturday mid day. I'm kinda nervous too. Last time around I had a major electrical issue that could not be sorted out. Hopefully this time around it goes smoothly.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

For those running straight water and who live in climates that see freezing temps, windshield wiper fluid is a great alternative.

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Yea that is my worries. That I pay all this money and there is a problem that doesn't allow us to continue with the tune. This is why I made this thread so I know I've done everything/anything to help prevent any delays when it's my turn. I'll probably stop by Saturday to check out everyone's cars and meet Steve since he'll be staying at my place for his trip.

Sunshine state of California Rich I don't think we have to deal with any of those problems haha.

13B-RX3

iTrader: (2)

What is everyone using for a fuel pressure sensor?

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

I have my fuel pressure gauge hooked up to my FPR but that gauge is dead I need to buy a new one. I wouldn't have had enough time to order and get it by the time my tune comes though so hopefully everything is fine when we do our runs.

Jose93RX7

iTrader: (6)

update?

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Check his build thread here in the single turbo section, as well as his thread in the 3rd Gen section.