Finally! Car is scheduled to get tune
 

So after a year of my build, the car is finally ready to get a full tune by Steve Kan. He flies in Jan 8-9th. Basically, I want the car prepared and ready for Steve to spend the full 2 hours dialing in the car/tune so I'm trying to figure out what maintenance/other things I need to do prior to the day my tune comes.

A very high level view of the car: Brand new streetported engine by Howard Coleman paired with an Aspec 500R turbo kit. Supra fuel pump with ID725/ID2000 injectors and Aquamist water injection kit.

What I've done so far:

Engine currently has 570 miles on it driving out of boost and keeping RPMs under 3k. The car is getting an oil change right now and will be running 10-40 standard oil I believe. When I first started driving the car, I was running synthetic, but I've been doing a search and since it's a new engine, people are saying to use just standard oil and then switch over after.

After the oil change, I will drive another 400-500 miles and get another oil change prior to the day of my tune. Should I switch back to synthetic or keep the standard oil? Also, should I go with thicker oil since I will be pushing the car on the dyno? I typically run 5-30 synthetic.

Basically the motor will have 1000+ miles on it, I will top off the gas (91 OCT FTL) and premix 1oz to 1 gallon of gas. I will also swap in brand new B10EGV plugs in, top off my water injection and I believe I'll be ready for the tune.

Are there any other maintenance issues I've missed? I will bring extra oil and coolant just in case its needed, but I want to make sure I've done everything to prepare.

I'm thinking to just have a safe conservative tune at 15psi for my first tune. Then whenever Steve comes back and if the car is still running strong, I'll go for a 20psi tune.

My personal preference but I run 20-50 Castrol non synthetic in the summer here. Synthetic doesn't like to burn as well as non synthetic. I would also change your fuel filter if it hasn't been done in a while. Sounds like youve got everything else covered. Post up numbers afterwards!

Ah, yes the fuel filter. I don't know when the last time it was replaced, but I may as well get it replaced so I don't run into any bottle necks. Do you know where I can purchase one? I want to order it ASAP so I can have it in by next week to replace it.

Probly any autoparts store or mazdatrix if you want a oem one.

It would be great if you could get the tools to pressure check your piping from the turbo to the UIM to assure you dont have any boost leaks on the dyno as they can often times be difficult to find although it is usually something silly causing the problem.

I recommend a mazda oem fuel filter, ray crowe can get you one in a day or two. We've had a parts store fuel filter be bad right out of the box..... was a tricky problem to diagnose, that's for sure.

DJ is correct, it's a good idea to make sure all vacuum lines are tightly zip tied, and all IC clamps are nice and tight.

My 2 cents...

-Check for boost leaks
-Check the wastgate and boost controller hoses to make sure they're not gonna burn near the hot manifold (happened to me once and overboosted)
-Check to see if water injection is working properly
-Bring a second set of stock 9's in case your EGV's don't work well (happened to me)
-I use 20w-50 oil since seeing the blackstone reports on how it breaks down to lower weights with fuel
-Change fuel filter
-Get a bigger fuel pump and tune to 20psi the first time!
-Bring all your tools and jack/jackstands...

See response in bold in the quote.

You're right, it is tough to check for boost leaks before being able to even boost and you probably don't have a pressure tester, etc... but do your best double checking all connections and couplers and be prepared if you do have a problem during your session. Same with WI...

As far as oil, I've never used synthetic, but I do use Valvoline VR1 Racing oil which has more Zinc/Phosphorus for better lubrication. I use 20w-50 and change every two track days. I use a magnetic drain plug.

If not 20psi at least tune to 16psi... probably the limit of that fuel pump on your set-up.

not all vacuum lines are created equal as far as blowing your motor if they come loose.

two lines will blow your motor...

the line connecting the MAP sensor

the line to your fuel pressure regulator

i suggest double tie wraps at both ends.

it is great that you are preparing for your session. probably 75% of dyno session time is spent (literally) chasing "issues."

everyone should prepare for the dyno like preparing for a race.

howard

would wastegate fall under that?

I would say so. No wg line means no boost limit. Ask me how I know.

Ok, so I went through the previous owners receipts, and it looks like the fuel filter was replaced back in 97 when the car had ~29,000 miles. The car now has 69,192 miles so around 40,000 miles on the fuel filter. How long are fuel filters usually good for as I know how big of a pain it is to get to these filters.

Second, I will be using 20-50 oil for my next oil change. Is there any specific brand that is better than the other and how many quarts should I order?

Third, I will order a 4 pack of BUR9EQP spark plugs just in case my EGV's don't work out well.

Any more suggestions would be great!

Change your fuel filter if its that old regardless of mileage.

thewird

I use Castrol GTX non-synthetic 20/50....it gets HOT out here in the desert..

Also,...you should look into the rebadged Greddy Plugs.. 7240's... After 8 thousand miles they still run and look great... seems as though the "Thewird," knew what he was talking about. 10.5 leading and trailing plugs.

Just wondering if the Idemitsu 20-50 oil is worth the price (12 quarts for $85) or if I should just use any other 20-50 oil. Right now, it has Castro 10-40 but I will be providing the oil the next oil change so I want to purchase it so it gets here by next week if I order online.

As for the spark plugs I already ordered a set a BUR9EQP plugs. I'm hoping I won't have a problem with my 10EGV's but like someone said, if I do, then I'll just have to hope the BUR9EQP's will be fine.

Thinking of purchasing this fuel filter (http://rx7.com/store/rx7/fdengine_maintenance.html) but if I can find one local, I rather go ahead and pick it up since I'm going to want to get the current one replaced before next week.

Like I said, I just want to make sure the car is 100% when it's on the dyno so I don't waste my time trying to figure out the problems that may pop up.

I said it once, and I said it again (and i love repeating myself)..... USE A MAZDA OEM FUEL FILTER.

yes, replace it way before 40k miles. yes, order it from ray and you'll have it in a few days. yes, it sucks doing it--- consider relocating it.

yes, idemitsu oil is worth every penny IMO.

Going to give Ray a call tomorrow

Is this still the contact number to call: 888 533 3400 or is there a better number

Thanks again Rich

for a boost leak tester, see www.boostpro.net/prodtester.html (universal tester at the bottom). you can make your own out of hardware store parts as well. you will need some kind of air compressor to use it.

I always recommend a boost leak pressure test before going to the dyno. You can basically waste a day if you don't have the boost leaks figured out.

the fuel filter should be changed based on miles.

the rotary requires approx 30% more air and FUEL to make X hp compared to a piston engine.

you have a 73 pound per minute turbo. the turbo would make 730 rwhp on a piston engine and will make 550 SAE (tops) on a rotary.

73 pounds of air at 11 to 1 AFR is 6.63 pounds of fuel.

6.63/ 6.35 = 1.045 gallons per minute or 3955 CC/Min.

since you will be cooling your motor w water, you will need a bit more fuel to end up w the proper amount of net BTUs...

so, yes, you will need a clean filter.

BTW, going forward, i suggest you purchase a digital 0-100 psi pressure sensor and screw it into your adj pressure regulator. for well under $100 you can log your fuel pressure and you will KNOW rather than guess that you have no fuel delivery problems.

as to oil.... all of us on this board have our own ideas. the truth probably is most oils will work fine. probably most reading this post will know what i am going to say re oils...

my engines (your engine) will make 80 pounds of oil pressure at 8000 rpm w excellent flow. most rotaries do not have lube problems... (they do have carbon problems).

i raced for 22 seasons, the last 6 w a rotary. my motors were dry sump (12 quarts of oil on board) and ran no less than 7000 rpm for the typical 35 minute race. i lost one motor in 72 SCCA Nat races and 5 Runofffs. at 10,300 rpm.

i ran Mobil One exclusively. 5-30 only. i was sponsored by Mobil and ran the viscosity they recommended.

a number of years later i was building my FD and talking to my friend Jose Le Duc and he told me to run nothing in my motors but Mobil One 5-30. Jose has been making over 1000 SAE rwhp w his 2 rotor 13 B-REW for a number of years. he hasn't ever steered me wrong.

when others are making 1000 hp i may listen to them. i have had excellent results w my oil and will spend my time dealing w other items.

i do always use 4 ounces of ZDDP w every oil change. if you are not familiar w the removal of anti wear components in our oil check out my thread in the 3rd gen section.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/you-need-know-about-reformulated-oil-revisited-again-july-08-a-770726/

hc

Howard, making 1000 rwhp is a fantastic achievement, but how many miles a year does Jose put on his engine?

I agree 100% about synthetics, but I can't agree with running 5w30 oil in a turbo rotary in hot (90+ degree) weather.

one of the most impressive aspects of Jose's motors is how many quarter miles made before disassembly. we are talking 1.1 second 60 foot times, under 7.5 seconds in the quarter at over 180 w a 2000 pound RX3! leaving the line at over 10,000 rpm.

as to we normal people running around in 90 degree weather.... i think healthily generating 1000 hp relates.

of course dual oil coolers and lots of thermal engineering do help.

i can say my 4 year motor looked very good inside when i took it down a few years ago. it had over 120 4th gear pedal to the metal 2000-8000 pulls on it, over 500 3rd gear street pulls and around 20,000 miles on the street.

as to viscosity... i wouldn't want to see more than 80 psi at 8000 and i am happy w oil pressures at lower rpms.

BTW, Brian, you don't necessarily need ZDDP+ for your dyno session... it is more of a longer term item IMO.

howard

I know this is going off topic but... this is the reason I changed to 20w-50 ----> https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/post-your-used-oil-analysis-uoa-thread-872865/


I might even go straight 60w...





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Rather than zip ties, try Mazda PN 9928-30-800 (small vacuum clamp) for vacuum / boost lines that you are concerned about. They are used on some of the OEM wastegate & turbo control lines. They will do a better job of clamping than zip ties, they are re-usable and won't become brittle or melt with heat. Only downside is they may be too small to fit around certain thick aftermarket vacuum lines.

Thanks for the great information as always Howard. I just called Ray and got his voicemail so I will call a little later on to order a fuel filter from him. How much are they? $60 or so?

For my fuel pressure, I have an in-cabin fuel pressure gauge that is tapped into my FPR under the hood. Sadly, the gauge isn't reading all of a sudden so I have to go ahead and order a new one. I doubt I'm going to have that in time for my tune.

So now I'm confused with oil. Seems like most of the rotary guys are running the 20-50 mix but now I'm having proof that a 5-30 oil is running 1000rwhp and running great. Seeing that my car will never run close to that power, but I will sooner or later start to take the car around the track once I get it all tuned to how I want it.

As far as the oil pressure, after the car is warmed up, my oil pressure gauge reads around 85-90psi as I start slowly climbing the RPMs until 4k now when I shift. You said yours runs around 80psi to redline. Do I have a backup in my oil pressure which is causing it to be higher?

Incase you guys wanted to review the engine mods:

2 Rotor Streetported Engine built by Howard Coleman (Atkins 2mm seals)
Unorthodox Pulley Set
A-Spec 500R T4 Turbo
A-Spec Stainless Manifold
Ceramic Coated Upper and Lower Intake Manifolds
Greddy Type-RS BOV
Tial 44mm Wastegate
RE-A Dual-Tip Cat-Back Exhaust System
A-Spec Down Pipe
A-Spec Mid Pipe
RX-7Store V-Mount Intercooler Kit + Modified KOYO Radiator
Coolingmist Trunk mount water/meth injection kit into the Greddy Elbow
Apexi PowerFC and Commander
Greddy Throttlebody Elbow
FDNewbie Import Dual Oil Coolers w/ Black Setrab Cores
Supra TT fuel pump
ID725 primary, ID2000 secondary injectors.
HKS Twin Power
Exedy Clutch/flywheel
AEM Digital UEGO Wideband
AEM Digital Tru Boost Gauge/Boost Controller
AEM Digital Fuel Pressure Gauge
AEM Digital Oil Pressure Gauge
AEM Digital Oil Temperature Gauge

Maintenace To-Do List:

Order/Install OEM fuel filter
Add gallon of bottled water to injection tank
Top off gas tank with 91OCT with 1oz:1gal premix ratio
Order NGK 4 BUR9EQP plugs incase the EGVs have trouble - DONE
Oil change the day before tune
Check all couplings/vacuum hoses