I'm going to start my single installation, and looking for the advice from the forum. Here is where I'm at:

Stock Port
Turblown 7670 EFR IWG Cast Manifold Turbo Kit
PowerFC (already installed)
Blitz FMIC (already installed)
Supra Denso Fuel Pump 195130-1020 (already installed)
FFE FD Fuel Step Up Kit
Injector Dynamics Injectors ID2000
Banzai block off plates for AWS, EGR, Rear Oil (I bought the whole kit)
IGN-1A Coils Direct Fire, Sakebomb Kit (already installed)
Bonez High Flow Cat (already installed)
RB Cat-Back (already installed)
Aquamist HFS-3
Intercooler Piping

I'm looking at the Rotary Aviation OMP adapter

There are other upgrades I've done along the way (boost gauge, suspension, etc.), but these are the most pertinent items. Anything obvious missing? Anything recommended?

 

How are you doing direct fire on the PFC ? A typo I assume ? I haven't tried the Ra omp adapter, but it should clear..

Boost controller ? And use some race plugs..OEM are garbage.

 

You're right, I misspoke.

IGN-1A HIGH PERFORMANCE IGNITION SYSTEM
IGN-1A High Performance Ignition System (FD3S RX-7, LHD Mount) - SakeBomb Garage LLC

I have (4) NGK R7420-10 on order.

I haven't ordered the OMP adapter yet. I may just block off for now and premix, but I like the convenience (and clean 2-stroke vs dirty engine oil). I'm just waiting for a few miscellaneous parts to roll in at this point. I'd like as little downtime as possible.

I'm told I can control boost with the Power FC.

I want to do it right the first time... part of the reason I went with your kit.

Thanks!

 

Were you able to keep the air pump? I have a similar setup to yours, but the air pump was a casualty due to the fitment of the turbo (see attached).

Also, you may want to upgrade to a Turbosmart wastegate actuator prior to your install as the OE unit that is part of the turbo is insufficient to boost higher than 11 psi with the exhaust restrictions that you have. Elliot (Turblown) can chime in here for further clarification. But this was my experience on a very recent install.

 

i suggest you save your money re the RA EOP setup and just premix. the RA system is probably additive but it may be worth noting that when Mazda redesigned the engine for the RX8 they moved from one injection port on the rotor housing to two...

a few years later into the RX8 life Mazda added an THIRD.

(i would be more interested in running the RA setup if we had 3 oil injection ports on our rotor housings although i would still premix)

i am pretty sure if you were to ask the appropriate Mazda engineer if the FD engine would have been better served using a premix regimen rather than the EOP he would have picked premix.

the marketing guys of course would have had a heart attack. they would have suggested that potential buyers would have been thinking about the FD as being in the same category as their lawn mowers.

our motors really are very similar to two strokes and as such really benefit from the proper dose of lubrication in the base fuel.

congrats on a nicely selected group of mods. good for you on the water injection and i still really like the Power FC/Datalogit combo for many apps.

 

These OMP discussions turn into the rotary equivalent of arguing over politics or religion, kind of like starting a "what oil do you use" thread on basically any car forum on the internet.

FYI The 2004 Rx-8 had two oil injectors aimed at the side seals due to the side exhaust ports. They basically cost saved the oil injector that goes to the middle of the apex seal (similar to what the older fuel injected rotaries had), and it caused a lot of problems with apex seal wear, so they put it back in 2009.

Let's just say I'm a huge proponent of the stock OMP with no premix after reading all the stuff Mazda published about it back in the 80s. OMP adapter vs stock crankcase oil: I guess you've already gone down the road of Aquamist so you plan on topping up an additional tank, but to me the OMP adapter is simply too inconvenient. If you're changing your oil often enough the benefits are going to be small.

 

To clarify, I am installing this one component at a time (see my post above for what's in and what's not). Doing it all at once would increase the chance I'd end up with a parts car!

I'm still running the stock twins. The 7670 is on my desk, but I was told the air pump would fit. Where did it interfere for you? What manifold are you running?

I was not planning on the Turbosmart actuator, as I was also told it's unnecessary. I would like to boost to 18 psi, and I think I have the fuel and ignition to make that a reality. But that's the purpose of this post... to separate fiction from reality.

 

Stock OMP, premix, and frequent oil changes seems to be the easiest solution. The 50/50 injection should help keep things nice and clean. Thanks!

 

We've learned there might be a difference in the lower airpump bracket( the tensioner) between auto and manual airpumps. This bracket might need to be cut and rewelded to clear.

Back pressure dictates usually what WG is needed. I would just give what you currently have a shot with a boost controller. 18 psi is not that high. I have a a 7670 FD here right now that runs 25psi( turbosmart unit was needed to get above 20). 3" open exhaust.

 

Your air pump will not fit with the 7670. I believe Turblown sells a modified tensioner bracket to remedy this problem. If it turns out you don't need it, I'll buy it from you since I need one myself. But...you will need it in order to save the air pump. Note: Wout adequate airflow, your Bonez cat will have a shortened life. There are other high flow cats where the air flow is not critical so don't let this aspect bother you too much.

The Turbosmart actuator is definitely in your future based on the current exhaust setup you have. I have the same Racing Beat cat-back setup as you but with a presumably higher flowing cat (Vibrant UHO) and a 3.5" downpipe. And yet, I am unable to effectively boost past 10-11 psi due to these restrictions using the OE wastegate actuator. The Turbosmart unit is $160, and will be much easier to swap before you install the turbo compared to afterward.

Hope this info helps!

 

If removing the air pump, a change to your stock pulley system will be in order; "GReddy pulley kit for FD3S".

Note: The aforementioned comments are my experiences after a recent install of the same EFR IWG 7670 turbo kit.

 

I will not remove the air pump. I need to keep this car passing emissions. That was a requirement from the start, and I can guarantee it won't pass without an air pump. It was a huge part of the reason I selected this kit and this turbo. I probably would have gone 8374 if emissions wasn't a requirement. I was very much on the fence.

Your input has been very helpful, thanks! I'll keep you up to date on my progress.

One company sent me the wrong 2" to 2.75" transition (was supposed to be a 90 degree, and they sent a 45 degree). They are taking friggin FOREVER to send the right one, but I want to have everything I know I need in hand before I start, because that's how I roll.

 

Funny, I didn't see your attached picture until now.

 

We are going to look into getting a bracket mass produced for this. Im going to need a week or two however.

 

Any update on the mass produced bracket?

 

We are doing some SEMA prep at the moment, after we are finished with that( next 2-3 weeks) I will jump back on this.

Here is one of our cast 8374 IWG kit installed down at JC racing in AUS. Factory Airpump in place.

 

How difficult is it to get the airpump to fit?
Setup looks nice, where did that intake s-pipe come from? Looks like it would work for my setup as well.

 

If you view our site from a desktop( non mobile version) you can see photos detailing whats required.

BorgWarner EFR IWG 13B Rotary Turbo System

This shop above didn't even ask me, they sorted it out completely on their own after looking on our site FYI.

 

What shop is it? Thanks

 

JC Racing (jcracing.com.au), was told the install was pretty easy, however the intake was a bit of pain with the greddy vmount radiator pipes.

 

I'm facing a similar situation with my intercooler setup, so I'm interested in the S pipe. It's the Pettit Coolcharge 3. Thanks

 

You can use the pfc to control the 3 port solenoid on the efr. Would just need to wire in a ev1 connector.

 

Is Turblown out of business? Their website is down, they don't answer the phone, e-mail, or PMs, and they've blown off sending an air pump bracket they promised to me MONTHS ago... any idea?