Hello all, I plan on replacing my turbo system on my '94 FD with a single turbocharging system within a year or so. Any recommendations? I'm looking for a kit around $3000 or less... XS Engineering and Apexi kits look good, any recommendations? Ideal would be something with a good balance between power output and turbo lag. Is this even a good idea? Thanx for all help.

BTW -- also any good reccomendations on clutches? I have Bonez Street Comp. Clutch in there right now, it's pretty stiff, but that probably won't be able to handle the extra torque. Needs to be somewhat streetable however (NOT full race)

 

Do you want to keep airpump for emission test? How much hp you plan on? You do know you need more that just the turbo kit for the Single upgrade, don't you?

I'm planning to go single turbo too. you need at least these parts. Single Turbo Kit, ECU - Power FC, Larger Injectors, Fuel pump.

 

where the boost controller?

 

I just put in the apex 2 months ago, and I passed the smog with no problems, because it keeps the air pump. I haven't dyno'd it, but it feels really fast, I ran a 11.7 at 119 with 14 psi, The second run I jumped the boost but I broke my diff. so I don't have a time on that. I think it is a very streetable turbo, with no lag at all. I auto-x alot and it great for that,,,still undefeated. Overall power isn't as high as other turbos, but for the price and reliability, it is good all around(for me so far). If you want big HP this isn't the turbo for you. If you want a turbo that won't fry your engine, and you don't have to add extra injectors/computers etc. this is good. Well, for me so far.

 

The only downside of getting the RX6 Apexi turbo kit is that the turbo is not rebuildable. Once apex seals break and damage the turbine section, there goes the expensive turbo.

However, I am sure modifications can be done to convert the IHI to full Garrett setup.

Timmy

 

that is true, but why bother with a Apexi in the first place then if you plan on turning it into a garrett .

 

Absolutely true. It happened to me... and Max and a few others I am sure. But why plan on it happening to you. ANY ball bearing turbo is pretty much non-rebuildable (although you may be able to get the center section at a high dollar rate). Spend some time reading the posts and learn to identify the problems that can lead to apex seal failure. Spend the extra bucks to replace the apexi wastegate, install a pop-off valve, have the setup dyno'd and tuned by a reputable shop. Then spend a few extra bucks for a datalogit and laptop and the results should be that the ball bearing RX6 will outlast your motor by a long shot and give you great performance in the meantime.

BTW since when is 400 BHP low output for a daily driver?

 

so are you saying your apex wategate failed too?

 

weaklink

Sorry for the confusion---The only thing Max's situation and mine have in common is the damage caused to the turbine wheel when apex seal meets APEXi turbo.

I have not experienced Apexi wastegate failure, but all three of my rear chamber apex seals went during a high speed pass and each piece took a bite out of my turbine wheel. The engine was very tired (low compression- approx 5.5 @250 rpm), it was about 100 degrees F. ambient, the air temp as measured by the power fc was over 55 deg C. and to top it off I am pretty sure the last load of gas I got was crap (arguing that a $5 can of Prestone Octane enhancer in the orange bottle can be cheap insurance when buying gas on the road from a station you don't know).

I am certain that if the wastegate did fail, the pop-off valve would have most likely protected the engine, at least thats what I paid it to do.

 

I have heard someone say before that a popoff valve might damage the turbo as they will spin too fast when the popoff opens. Is that true? If it does open is it noticeable, or would you be able to tell what was happening so you could diagnose the problem? Where did you plumb the popoff? Sorry for all the questions, but Max and others have me paranoid about the wastegate.

 

The POV, because it is operates with the throttle open, should be placed as close to the TB as practical. I have mine set in the aluminum tubing coming out of the IC but before the 90 degree throttle tube. On a fairly thick tube, the unit can be set directly into the tube, on thinner walled units, an adapter plate can be inserted.

You and others are probably right about overrevving the turbo, but remember this is not a boost controller or a wastegate. As I understand this piece of equipement, the POV is a failsafe system designed only to blow off OVERboost. In a perfect world, it will never open except for the day you set it, but if it does it sure lets you know (PSHHHHHHHHH) and you can get off the juice before the turbo sustains any damage from overrev.