FD 6 Speed Quaife Gearsets
11-13-07, 05:55 AM
#1
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FD 6 Speed Quaife Gearsets
After calling up Quaife I have unfortunately found out that these are no longer made. They would need an order of around 5 sets and I am hoping around these will cost around $4500US as they said they could give us a better price. (conversion rate from US to GBP is great, AUS to GBP SUCKS!)
So let me know if you are keen
I am still trying to gather more info on them:
As used by the Autoselect FD:
http://translate.google.com/translat...n%26safe%3Doff
Mazada RX7 turbo 6-speed dog engagement Quaife gearkit.
Complete 6-speed dog engagement gearkit straight cut close ratio gears. Latest 4 dog open face design.
Comprehensive kit – includes selectors.
Required minor modifications to centre and rear cases
Ratios:-
1st 2.823
2nd 1.941
3rd 1.513
4th 1.200
5th 0.958
6th 0.780
Post here OR on Ausrotary if you are genuinely interested:
http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?t=142512 (need to be registered)
Cheers, Alex.
So let me know if you are keen
I am still trying to gather more info on them:
As used by the Autoselect FD:
http://translate.google.com/translat...n%26safe%3Doff
Mazada RX7 turbo 6-speed dog engagement Quaife gearkit.
Complete 6-speed dog engagement gearkit straight cut close ratio gears. Latest 4 dog open face design.
Comprehensive kit – includes selectors.
Required minor modifications to centre and rear cases
Ratios:-
1st 2.823
2nd 1.941
3rd 1.513
4th 1.200
5th 0.958
6th 0.780
Post here OR on Ausrotary if you are genuinely interested:
http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?t=142512 (need to be registered)
Cheers, Alex.
Last edited by aleks; 11-13-07 at 06:14 AM.
11-14-07, 01:18 AM
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11-14-07, 12:41 PM
#4
I am interested in what you find out Alex, as I am trying to get a dog box setup in my race car in an affordable manner.
>>Why invest so much money in something with such a weak link; flimsy case?
I think people have the wrong perspective here. I have done more track events and races than I can count and the only thing we have done is sheer teeth off gears and blow up syncros, the cases have never had an issue. BUT, if you are drag racing and launching an 800 rwhp car from a standing start, well yeah, then get a friggin drag racing transmission. These gear sets (that go into a stock case) are mainly for road racing and the stock case is fine.
>>Why invest so much money in something with such a weak link; flimsy case?
I think people have the wrong perspective here. I have done more track events and races than I can count and the only thing we have done is sheer teeth off gears and blow up syncros, the cases have never had an issue. BUT, if you are drag racing and launching an 800 rwhp car from a standing start, well yeah, then get a friggin drag racing transmission. These gear sets (that go into a stock case) are mainly for road racing and the stock case is fine.
11-15-07, 04:45 AM
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What gear ratios do you want?
How is your Guru gearset going? any problems? How much abuse has it seen
Edit: The 735RWHP just clicked in my head from what a little birdy told me.
How is your Guru gearset going? any problems? How much abuse has it seen
Edit: The 735RWHP just clicked in my head from what a little birdy told me.
Last edited by aleks; 11-15-07 at 04:59 AM.
11-15-07, 06:14 AM
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I had the PPG and it has seen alot of abuse and stood up well. The gear ratios are all wrong for drag racing though. It wasn't 1 to 1 until 5th gear and I don't get into 5th on the track. Also 1st gear was way too long. Stock ratios are ideal. Nobody seems to understand that though. They all want to F#$k with something that doesn't need to be messed with, lol....
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11-15-07, 12:28 PM
#8
Hey ErnieT, did you read my past above at all? Seems like you missed it because it almost directly addresses what you just posted:
- gear ratios for road racing, NOT drag racing
- "... if you are drag racing and launching an 800 rwhp car from a standing start, well yeah, then get a friggin drag racing transmission...."
These comments were not directed at you when I made the post, but it looks like they apply based on what you posted :-)
- gear ratios for road racing, NOT drag racing
- "... if you are drag racing and launching an 800 rwhp car from a standing start, well yeah, then get a friggin drag racing transmission...."
These comments were not directed at you when I made the post, but it looks like they apply based on what you posted :-)
11-15-07, 03:01 PM
#9
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Hey ErnieT, did you read my past above at all? Seems like you missed it because it almost directly addresses what you just posted:
- gear ratios for road racing, NOT drag racing
- "... if you are drag racing and launching an 800 rwhp car from a standing start, well yeah, then get a friggin drag racing transmission...."
These comments were not directed at you when I made the post, but it looks like they apply based on what you posted :-)
- gear ratios for road racing, NOT drag racing
- "... if you are drag racing and launching an 800 rwhp car from a standing start, well yeah, then get a friggin drag racing transmission...."
These comments were not directed at you when I made the post, but it looks like they apply based on what you posted :-)
11-19-07, 06:36 PM
#13
Concept Motorsports
seams pretty affordable when you look at a price lists for a race bog box like a Holinger ;
this is what i calculated assuming 4.30 final drive and 265/35/18 tires
TOP SPEED @ 8,000RPM:
1st 2.823 = 49.27mph @ 8,000Rpm
2nd 1.941= 71.65mph @ 8,000Rpm
3rd 1.513= 91.92mph @ 8,000Rpm
4th 1.200= 115.9mph @ 8,000Rpm
5th 0.958= 145.0mph @ 8,000Rpm
6th 0.780= 178.31mph @ 8,000Rpm
this is what i calculated assuming 4.30 final drive and 265/35/18 tires
TOP SPEED @ 8,000RPM:
1st 2.823 = 49.27mph @ 8,000Rpm
2nd 1.941= 71.65mph @ 8,000Rpm
3rd 1.513= 91.92mph @ 8,000Rpm
4th 1.200= 115.9mph @ 8,000Rpm
5th 0.958= 145.0mph @ 8,000Rpm
6th 0.780= 178.31mph @ 8,000Rpm
11-20-07, 11:31 PM
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So at the moment I can't be bothered:
New Clutch/change spline
get a bell housing made up
mount new gear box
new tail shaft made up
when I have just gone through this process.
Its stronger and pretty cheap but still Helical synco gearset.
11-24-07, 02:32 AM
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PRICE IS NOT $4500 USD I don't know how I got that figure when I went to www.xe.comI can confirm the minimum order is 5 gearsets at 3100 UK Pounds each which is roughly $6400 USD.
To put things into perspective in Australian dollars from my point of view
Quaife 7.3K + shipping and customs duties ~$8200
PAR 10.4K Local
Guru 9K? Local
06-04-08, 12:15 AM
#20
My $0.02,
~Ramy
06-04-08, 01:22 AM
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I had the PPG and it has seen alot of abuse and stood up well. The gear ratios are all wrong for drag racing though. It wasn't 1 to 1 until 5th gear and I don't get into 5th on the track. Also 1st gear was way too long. Stock ratios are ideal. Nobody seems to understand that though. They all want to F#$k with something that doesn't need to be messed with, lol....
06-04-08, 01:25 AM
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EXACTLY
Nope. The bulletproof German Getrag out of a Supra (V160 or V161). It's now COMPLETELY bolt-on, w/ an adapter available to make installing it no prob. No fab work necessary. Works with 13Bs as well as 20Bs. Best of all, the tranny isn't just tried & true to withstand ENORMOUS amounts of torque, but also the tranny shifter is mounted on a tripod, which will allow you to (re)locate the shifter to whatever position you'd like in the interior, including the OEM FD location!
My $0.02,
~Ramy
Nope. The bulletproof German Getrag out of a Supra (V160 or V161). It's now COMPLETELY bolt-on, w/ an adapter available to make installing it no prob. No fab work necessary. Works with 13Bs as well as 20Bs. Best of all, the tranny isn't just tried & true to withstand ENORMOUS amounts of torque, but also the tranny shifter is mounted on a tripod, which will allow you to (re)locate the shifter to whatever position you'd like in the interior, including the OEM FD location!
My $0.02,
~Ramy
06-04-08, 02:51 AM
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I do not recommend that Dogbox, they were made for Trust. And some guys over here in the UK have had them and hust had problem after problem, rarely being able to complete sucessful races, due to various issues with the boxes, generally due to strength.
Although saying that I destoyed a GURU box, first timne we used it, I came on boost in 4th (mapping) and smashed it up. 2bar+ on a GT47 size turbo though.
The only box weve had great succes with, is the HKS 6 speed, different case, and has taken all the abuse we've given it, except for now losing reverse gear.
Although saying that I destoyed a GURU box, first timne we used it, I came on boost in 4th (mapping) and smashed it up. 2bar+ on a GT47 size turbo though.
The only box weve had great succes with, is the HKS 6 speed, different case, and has taken all the abuse we've given it, except for now losing reverse gear.
06-04-08, 03:15 AM
#24
The factory case will always be a problem no matter what gear set is used. The case allows too much gear seperation to occur. Couple that with high horsepower and serious traction and that lower shaft will try to exit the bottom of the case and that's if a gear set don't break first! 
For street/road racing the factory case can withstand a lot of abuse to a point as long as traction and power but more important torque is reasonable.
In regards to dragracing and ratios whatever tranny is used meaning 4 or 5 speed your high gear or 1:1 ratio must be engaged right at the end of the 1/8mile. The first three to four gears depending on if it's a 4 or 5 speed transmission are used for the bulk of the acceleration. Adjust your diff ratio to suit. Once a car is geared properly it should be at or just above redline in high(1:1)gear at the end of the 1/4.
For street/road racing the factory case can withstand a lot of abuse to a point as long as traction and power but more important torque is reasonable.
In regards to dragracing and ratios whatever tranny is used meaning 4 or 5 speed your high gear or 1:1 ratio must be engaged right at the end of the 1/8mile. The first three to four gears depending on if it's a 4 or 5 speed transmission are used for the bulk of the acceleration. Adjust your diff ratio to suit. Once a car is geared properly it should be at or just above redline in high(1:1)gear at the end of the 1/4.
Last edited by crispeed; 06-04-08 at 03:29 AM.
06-04-08, 03:35 AM
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