After calling up Quaife I have unfortunately found out that these are no longer made. They would need an order of around 5 sets and I am hoping around these will cost around $4500US as they said they could give us a better price. (conversion rate from US to GBP is great, AUS to GBP SUCKS!)

So let me know if you are keen

I am still trying to gather more info on them:

As used by the Autoselect FD:
http://translate.google.com/translat...n%26safe%3Doff




Mazada RX7 turbo 6-speed dog engagement Quaife gearkit.

Complete 6-speed dog engagement gearkit straight cut close ratio gears. Latest 4 dog open face design.

Comprehensive kit – includes selectors.

Required minor modifications to centre and rear cases

Ratios:-

1st 2.823
2nd 1.941
3rd 1.513
4th 1.200
5th 0.958
6th 0.780



Post here OR on Ausrotary if you are genuinely interested:

http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?t=142512 (need to be registered)

Cheers, Alex.

 

Why invest so much money in something with such a weak link; flimsy case?

 

hmmm true.. what do you suggest as tranny then??? FD boxes are so weak...

Greddy 6 Spd? HKS sequential?

 

I am interested in what you find out Alex, as I am trying to get a dog box setup in my race car in an affordable manner.

>>Why invest so much money in something with such a weak link; flimsy case?

I think people have the wrong perspective here. I have done more track events and races than I can count and the only thing we have done is sheer teeth off gears and blow up syncros, the cases have never had an issue. BUT, if you are drag racing and launching an 800 rwhp car from a standing start, well yeah, then get a friggin drag racing transmission. These gear sets (that go into a stock case) are mainly for road racing and the stock case is fine.

 

Same story. Gear ratios suck.

 

What gear ratios do you want?

How is your Guru gearset going? any problems? How much abuse has it seen

Edit: The 735RWHP just clicked in my head from what a little birdy told me.

 

I had the PPG and it has seen alot of abuse and stood up well. The gear ratios are all wrong for drag racing though. It wasn't 1 to 1 until 5th gear and I don't get into 5th on the track. Also 1st gear was way too long. Stock ratios are ideal. Nobody seems to understand that though. They all want to F#$k with something that doesn't need to be messed with, lol....

 

Hey ErnieT, did you read my past above at all? Seems like you missed it because it almost directly addresses what you just posted:

- gear ratios for road racing, NOT drag racing

- "... if you are drag racing and launching an 800 rwhp car from a standing start, well yeah, then get a friggin drag racing transmission...."

These comments were not directed at you when I made the post, but it looks like they apply based on what you posted :-)

 

Sorry, my bad bro

 

hehe its all good :-)

 

What about the G-Force T5 kit? It's cheap and the ratios are pretty decent for a cheap road racing transmission.

 

What about the OS Giken gear set? I have the 300zx set in my Z and I love it.

 

seams pretty affordable when you look at a price lists for a race bog box like a Holinger ;
this is what i calculated assuming 4.30 final drive and 265/35/18 tires

TOP SPEED @ 8,000RPM:

1st 2.823 = 49.27mph @ 8,000Rpm
2nd 1.941= 71.65mph @ 8,000Rpm
3rd 1.513= 91.92mph @ 8,000Rpm
4th 1.200= 115.9mph @ 8,000Rpm
5th 0.958= 145.0mph @ 8,000Rpm
6th 0.780= 178.31mph @ 8,000Rpm

 

I have already engineerd my car (not a FD) for a FD gearbox.

So at the moment I can't be bothered:

New Clutch/change spline
get a bell housing made up
mount new gear box
new tail shaft made up

when I have just gone through this process.


Its an option I am considering

Its stronger and pretty cheap but still Helical synco gearset.

 

what about an auto with a trans brake. I remember seeing one somewhere.
That would be the **** for drag racing!

 

if ur gonna drag race might as well fab a powerglide on it, lightweight, super strong, and only 2 gears, so you stay consistant.. ??

 

If You Get Enough People Pm Me And Ill Be In The Group Buy!

 

PRICE IS NOT $4500 USD I don't know how I got that figure when I went to www.xe.com

I can confirm the minimum order is 5 gearsets at 3100 UK Pounds each which is roughly $6400 USD.


To put things into perspective in Australian dollars from my point of view
Quaife 7.3K + shipping and customs duties ~$8200
PAR 10.4K Local
Guru 9K? Local

 

huh...well then, i don't see myself getting that anytime in mylife

 

EXACTLY

Nope. The bulletproof German Getrag out of a Supra (V160 or V161). It's now COMPLETELY bolt-on, w/ an adapter available to make installing it no prob. No fab work necessary. Works with 13Bs as well as 20Bs. Best of all, the tranny isn't just tried & true to withstand ENORMOUS amounts of torque, but also the tranny shifter is mounted on a tripod, which will allow you to (re)locate the shifter to whatever position you'd like in the interior, including the OEM FD location!

My $0.02,
~Ramy

 

not to mention, why would you upgrade to a 6speed if your worried about getting into 5th on the strip. I dont know why so many people dont like the fd transmission. Weird. Seems fine to me. I havent even seen pictures of a broken case before. Plenty of broken diffs.

 

Hey, how much is the clutch for that setup? 3k? Lols. Its a nice idea but the total conversion cost is pretty intense. There is a pretty good reason that those kits arent selling like hot cakes. They are only for people who need and can afford them. If an upgraded gearing kit became available for a decent price it would probably be a much more popular option.

 

I do not recommend that Dogbox, they were made for Trust. And some guys over here in the UK have had them and hust had problem after problem, rarely being able to complete sucessful races, due to various issues with the boxes, generally due to strength.
Although saying that I destoyed a GURU box, first timne we used it, I came on boost in 4th (mapping) and smashed it up. 2bar+ on a GT47 size turbo though.
The only box weve had great succes with, is the HKS 6 speed, different case, and has taken all the abuse we've given it, except for now losing reverse gear.

 

The factory case will always be a problem no matter what gear set is used. The case allows too much gear seperation to occur. Couple that with high horsepower and serious traction and that lower shaft will try to exit the bottom of the case and that's if a gear set don't break first!
For street/road racing the factory case can withstand a lot of abuse to a point as long as traction and power but more important torque is reasonable.
In regards to dragracing and ratios whatever tranny is used meaning 4 or 5 speed your high gear or 1:1 ratio must be engaged right at the end of the 1/8mile. The first three to four gears depending on if it's a 4 or 5 speed transmission are used for the bulk of the acceleration. Adjust your diff ratio to suit. Once a car is geared properly it should be at or just above redline in high(1:1)gear at the end of the 1/4.

 

Yep! Very consistently SLOWER!!!