I might be getting a 4 barrel throttle body intake setup and 13 race ported motor from a friend.. just wondering what all im going to need to switch to Fuel Injection and Electronically controlled spark opposed to Distributor.... Some have told me Magasquirt is good and not too expensive... any thoughts or other reccomendations...

 

lol you just spent all that $$ on a 4 barrel setup and then get the cheapest ECU on the market ?

since your after something simple (and cheap) just get a second hand micro or haltech or something.

 

500 bucks for 13b raceported engine, ss exhaust manifold, tIAL wastegate, 4 barrel Jay tech intake manifold, 4 barrel throtttle body, and aeromotive rising rate FPR, plus CAS and other 13b stuff...

I dont know much about Fuel injection... What are going to be the minimal sensors needed to run it properly...

CAS,TPS, MAP, O2,

IAT? CTS?

 

lol this is turbo ? that does change things.

micro MT8 = $300 should come with all sensors, may need a new loom.

If I was you, Id go something new - haltech rotary ecu or something.

you need WG control as well, O2 isnt needed, water temp, air temp, CAS is about all you need. depending on the resat of your setup

 

You got all that stuff for $500???? Wtf? I want some of those prices as well!!!

 

Exactly my thoughts!!!

At a min, get a Haltech E6K. I sold one for $500 not too long ago, with a brand new harness, etc.

 

Hey,

The Megasquirt may be cheap, and it may be messy to get all the features in that box, but I'm telling you that in quite a few ways the control methodology is better than what is inside the Haltech PS2000 and Motec M400s and M800s.

No other engine management stages the secondary bank of injectors in as intelligently as Megasquirt. No other ECU is easily repaired when things go wrong.

No other ECU has 3 seperate tuning softwares which are independantly made.

Microtech can't even record more than 500 samples in a datalog, and a complete novice can tune sorted car with a megasquirt in about 1hr using offline fuel map corrections.

If you took a full blown MS3 with the extended outputs, bought the full functioning tuning software, feed a good wb02 into it it is right up there with the best and your wallet will only be about $700USD lighter.

There are a handful of people with 300rwhp+ megasquirt rotaries.

 

Get a microtech lt-10

 

What are you starting with here? Did this car start as a 12A 1st gen?

 

Good Friend!... got screwed out of his rx2 since they never got the title to him and he started building it.... they took the car and he got bitter so is just trying to get rid of the stuff and knows that i am very passionate about my car and rotaries and trying to do things right... hes was helping me out and vice versa... yes i am lucky.... I already have a gt35r and wg and rising rate fpr so i may be selling some of the stuff cheap if my other buddies dont want it... or i could put the holset on my SubARU

 

yEAH was 12a turbo but im not screwing with this any more blowthrough and all that... locked distrib. not very effecient and a pain in the *** to try to get the jetting right when the carb isnt even right to begin with!....

 

Elliot told me to go with exactly that... what all sensors will i need?

 

Well i will be hoping for 400-500 rwhp with this setup.... don't see why that will make too much difference... if you can please explain... i am new to Fuel Injection as far as actually building a car.. i Just read the mega manual and have a good understanding of how it works.. (fuel injection in general) but just seeing what will be the best and in my price range for this... (I just spent a ton of time and money this season building my motor and boost box and everything to get my stupid 12aT going and just blew it up.... i want to do it reliably as well.....

Thanks!

 

Please elaborate...

 

Yes here is my build thread... wish i could rename it... because it will no longer be 12a...

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...Zaridar&page=5

 

Could you please post up pictures of the failed parts in your 12A?

 

havent torn it apart yet.. Sorry... I live about an hour and 20 from my parents where the car is worked on and kept... I am going to school and working up here and have been extremely busy. I spent every day off working on that thing for that last two months trying to get it ready for some races this year... when it blew up i just pushed into the corner and haven't looked at it since... i was extremely, extremely bummed.... but not giving up...

 

Well make it easy on your self and pull the 12A apart. If your housings are OK and you didn't run it for too long MAYBE it isn't too bad, and you can fix the engine relatively cheaply and get it in a known state of good.

As a novice owner modifier you should make things easy on yourself and learn fuel injection and tuning in general with a non turbo using a known good engine and a known working setup.

 

Even the factory engine management uses a 0.5mm flow restricter which is connected to what is essentially a vacuum tank. I'm pretty sure you are talking out of your ****.

 

so can any of the previous statements that i commented on be a little more in detail? thanks guys for all the input... I do plan on having a professional tune my car once everything is all set up... so that might make a difference...

 

anyone?

 

bro, microtech lt10s must be

 

????

 

Microtech is the cheapest ECU to buy. It all depends on your budget and how many features you will need. In my opinion, speak to the tuner first and see what he recommends or is comfortable with. But there is plenty of support for both haltech and microtech on this forum.

 

^This!