Embarrassing night at the track. Missing a ton of HP. Ideas?
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,745
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From: North Bay, Ontario
Yeah definitely. Try a set of the NGK R6725 10.5's all around. They aren't cheap, but if you're gonna be cranking it up over 500whp, they'll do the job and last, you won't have to worry about them.
Is there a wideband on the car?
My first instinct is to check the A/F.
And also, you suck at driving.
How do you expect to holeshot with those 100spoke daytons?
ninja edit:
Also, use youtube so quality doesn't suck *****.
My first instinct is to check the A/F.
And also, you suck at driving.
How do you expect to holeshot with those 100spoke daytons?
ninja edit:
Also, use youtube so quality doesn't suck *****.
I reckon the car never made 400+rwhp on 15psi to begin with.
Thats just my guess. Seen it to many times.
People come in with huge dyno sheets, put it on my dyno and make up to 150rwhp less with no changes.
Just cause steve kan uses someone elses dyno dosnt stop you from strapping the car down loosely or playing with atmospheric conditions on the dyno or sticking the air temp sensor on the exhaust housing. Ive seen alot of dodge tricks from my early times in working other workshops.
Thats just my guess. Seen it to many times.
People come in with huge dyno sheets, put it on my dyno and make up to 150rwhp less with no changes.
Just cause steve kan uses someone elses dyno dosnt stop you from strapping the car down loosely or playing with atmospheric conditions on the dyno or sticking the air temp sensor on the exhaust housing. Ive seen alot of dodge tricks from my early times in working other workshops.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,140
Likes: 0
From: Saint Louis / Illinois
I reckon the car never made 400+rwhp on 15psi to begin with.
Thats just my guess. Seen it to many times.
People come in with huge dyno sheets, put it on my dyno and make up to 150rwhp less with no changes.
Just cause steve kan uses someone elses dyno dosnt stop you from strapping the car down loosely or playing with atmospheric conditions on the dyno or sticking the air temp sensor on the exhaust housing. Ive seen alot of dodge tricks from my early times in working other workshops.
Thats just my guess. Seen it to many times.
People come in with huge dyno sheets, put it on my dyno and make up to 150rwhp less with no changes.
Just cause steve kan uses someone elses dyno dosnt stop you from strapping the car down loosely or playing with atmospheric conditions on the dyno or sticking the air temp sensor on the exhaust housing. Ive seen alot of dodge tricks from my early times in working other workshops.
I'm not sure what kind of operation you Aussi folks run, but Steve Kan aint like that.
My car made boost fine at 17 psi, I dyno'd it only because I was at a friends shop with a Dynopack (sp?).... it was missing 100 rwhp! Turned out the coupler on the compressor housing was loose. We tightend it and the car made 100 more rwhp on the 2nd pull. I didn't even notice it was loose since I was making good boost, who knows how long I was driving like that.
I would def check for a boost leak...
I would def check for a boost leak...
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,140
Likes: 0
From: Saint Louis / Illinois
I doubt there is anything you can it. Its a goner. I'll take it off your hands so you don't have to deal with it. 
Seriously though, i'd do what others have said. Pressure test the intake first. I found all sorts of little leaks when i did this. Since you're loosing that much power it will be obvious.
Second, make sure all the plugs are firing. If the leading coil is out, it will probably still run and drive fine (depending on the tune), but you will be way down on power.

Seriously though, i'd do what others have said. Pressure test the intake first. I found all sorts of little leaks when i did this. Since you're loosing that much power it will be obvious.
Second, make sure all the plugs are firing. If the leading coil is out, it will probably still run and drive fine (depending on the tune), but you will be way down on power.
Another suggestion, alot of mechanic shops will have smoke testers for evaporative emissions systems. These can also work excellently for looking for intake leaks, they show very very small leaks quite quickly.
Well 121mph is certainly not 450rwhp either so sorry to rain on your parade on that one.
more like 360-370rwhp.
So i guess you had a majic 90rwhp.
I would simply change your spark plugs and go back to have it retuned.
more like 360-370rwhp.
So i guess you had a majic 90rwhp.
I would simply change your spark plugs and go back to have it retuned.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,140
Likes: 0
From: Saint Louis / Illinois
That's not the point, it's down on power; that's the point.
I think I'll go ahead and take everyone's advice accept yours.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,541
Likes: 0
From: Abingdon, Md
Eric,
I agree, check for leaks, but a couple other things. Steve usually tunes very rich to be on the safe side. Nothing wrong with that, but it will foul plugs very quick. Also, you may not want to hear this, but do a compression check. If you have a catch can, check it for blow by.
Good luck bro and good to see your back.
I agree, check for leaks, but a couple other things. Steve usually tunes very rich to be on the safe side. Nothing wrong with that, but it will foul plugs very quick. Also, you may not want to hear this, but do a compression check. If you have a catch can, check it for blow by.
Good luck bro and good to see your back.
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,279
Likes: 728
From: Florence, Alabama
lots of good advice here and it will be interesting to learn what the problem is.
since you are missing a ton of hp and your motor appears to be running fairly well i would check for boost leaks on the primary side first. generally when you are down 50+ ponies you can hear the leak but i still rate it number one.
i would do a plug check second. you should pick up a bad coil from a plug check. generally, however, you are going to pick up a miss if your ignition is crapping out due to plug wires, a coil or just a fouled plug.
AFRs could be the problem as the motor would run o k but could easily be down 50 hp+ due to an overly rich AFR.
a dirty airfilter would also be something to check.
how about the emergency brake?
keep us posted as we are all curious as to where the ponies are hiding.
hc
since you are missing a ton of hp and your motor appears to be running fairly well i would check for boost leaks on the primary side first. generally when you are down 50+ ponies you can hear the leak but i still rate it number one.
i would do a plug check second. you should pick up a bad coil from a plug check. generally, however, you are going to pick up a miss if your ignition is crapping out due to plug wires, a coil or just a fouled plug.
AFRs could be the problem as the motor would run o k but could easily be down 50 hp+ due to an overly rich AFR.
a dirty airfilter would also be something to check.
how about the emergency brake?
keep us posted as we are all curious as to where the ponies are hiding.
hc
I guess it didn't run that strong, eh? 
Any luck yet?
Change plugs n' wires. Check boost leaks. Don't know if there is a way to test or check the msd unit to make sure it's firing at 100%? I am pretty sure that they are reliable but it's one more thing that could be the culprit.
Like previously mentioned, do the easy and cheap **** first. Then get dirty if it still eff's up.

Any luck yet?
Change plugs n' wires. Check boost leaks. Don't know if there is a way to test or check the msd unit to make sure it's firing at 100%? I am pretty sure that they are reliable but it's one more thing that could be the culprit.
Like previously mentioned, do the easy and cheap **** first. Then get dirty if it still eff's up.







