Marcel Burkett

I started this thread in the Single Turbo section and can't find it now , so I guess the moderators have struck again since I did not mention anything about me having a single TA51 on my car , anyways I am reposting to maybe help someone who might be having similar problems and are looking for an end to it .
What I was experiencing was an ignition break up from about 2800rpm up , flashing of the shift light which is wired to the E6K to come on at 6800rpm (for now ) and "holding back" when driving and a lot of "popping" and "back fireing" , also it would not idle below 2000 rpm . I swapped out the plugs , wires , coils , MSD's and was still having the same problems so I was about to pull the sub harness for the speed pick ups and try some type of shielding and grounding , since I never grounded it in three years (although It worked perfectly before).
What I noticed when I got in there was that the signal wheel was bent , the little tab which sticks out from the wheel to trigger the second NE sensor was bent forward , (I suppose from my last rebuild which I did not post about , its a long story but just know that ther right plugs for your application is VERY IMPORTANT!!! )so anyhow , no signalling was happening there , I streightened it out and ........... everything works perfectly again . For you guys who tried everything and are still having problems , try looking at the sensor itself, hope this helps someone.

nd4spd

Marcel, I was one that also had the problem. I just wanted to clarify that you are talking about the CAS. I have adjusted my maps somewhat and found out I was a little lean. What I now have is a reluctance for the car to accelerate through the transition into boost. Especially in second. It feels like it is "holding back" Boost will not come on until 5.5k or so and then all at once. In third it is sooner and 4th a little sooner than that. I also never get more than 6lbs or so of boost. It is a single turbo upgrade (see the sig) so I am hoping those in the know here can take a minute to help me fix a problem that I have been fighting too long.

nd4spd

O.K. guys, I know this sounds like a boring or even maybe a difficult question but is still a problem. Any possibilities will be considered. This is where the technical experts are and this is where the problem is going to get solved. At this point I am pretty sure it not fuel delivery. I have both richened and leaned out to the point that I know that is not a mapping issue. I know my grounds are good. Coils are good. Maybe someone can give me a list of things eliminate. Please.

Marcel Burkett

Yeah I am speaking of the CAS system on the third gen . It sounds to me that you also have a timing issue, when I had the problem the car was acting the same way , a "hold back" from 3000rpm up , then a **** load of boost would come on , if I reved it whilst idling I would see 6+ psi on the gauge at about 5000rpm (this is with a TA51 !!!) , with the problem solved I only get about 2psi, suggesting that the retarded timing was contributing to a sort of anti lag thing by allowing fuel to pass through the engine unburnt , also when idleing there would be "raw" fuel coming out the back , it would really burn your eyes.

nd4spd

Well , I think timing is a factor but not as you describe. Idle is just about perfect. Does not seem to be overly rich. I checked the CAS last night and it seems fine. Car seems to run just about perfect until about 4k or in the transition to the secondaries. This is key and I just figured it out this AM. I figure 4k is where the secondaries would come on with just about any acceleration. What is difficult is thi is a problem that intermittantly just goes away and the car runs very well. Because of that I have eliminated the timing being off.

So, why would my car hesitate to transition into boost? Would changing the staging location help? If so, do I move it to 11 instead of 12 then adjust the map by reducing the bar after staging? Do I have some problem with the secondary injector control?

Open for questions.....

Marcel Burkett

may be you should check the injectors themselves for sticking , blockage or any type of malfunction . I can even be as simple as a bad electrical connector, causing intermittent contact and intermittent operation of the injector .