Efr 7670
#26
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Thanks for chiming in Andy! I'm glad you gave your input since I still didn't get a video for Aaron lol.
I think part of what they were going for with this turbo also was longevity. And since they're brand new, it's hard to say how it fares there. As far as I'm concerned, so far this turbo is living up to what I hoped it would be.
I think part of what they were going for with this turbo also was longevity. And since they're brand new, it's hard to say how it fares there. As far as I'm concerned, so far this turbo is living up to what I hoped it would be.
#27
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It is possible to mount the turbo with a round vband as opposed to a T4 mount whether divided or non div.
Obviously, vband is non divided, but the advantage is ease of mounting and the speed to take on-off.
If I did a twin, this would be my #1 choice, but with a single, divided seems to the best choice for quick spool.
I mentioned that you had 1.05 because one of the plots was for a 1.10 IIRC
im getting a twin scroll as well now.
Cheers
Obviously, vband is non divided, but the advantage is ease of mounting and the speed to take on-off.
If I did a twin, this would be my #1 choice, but with a single, divided seems to the best choice for quick spool.
I mentioned that you had 1.05 because one of the plots was for a 1.10 IIRC
im getting a twin scroll as well now.
Cheers
#28
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Yea but you might as well get the open volute if your not going divided with you're manifold, With the 7670 you'll have no problem with response....but with the opposite (top end)....open volute v-band might balance that out a little.
Speedjunkie.... Can't waite till you can rip on it!
Speedjunkie.... Can't waite till you can rip on it!
#30
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It is possible to mount the turbo with a round vband as opposed to a T4 mount whether divided or non div.
Obviously, vband is non divided, but the advantage is ease of mounting and the speed to take on-off.
If I did a twin, this would be my #1 choice, but with a single, divided seems to the best choice for quick spool.
I mentioned that you had 1.05 because one of the plots was for a 1.10 IIRC
im getting a twin scroll as well now.
Cheers
Obviously, vband is non divided, but the advantage is ease of mounting and the speed to take on-off.
If I did a twin, this would be my #1 choice, but with a single, divided seems to the best choice for quick spool.
I mentioned that you had 1.05 because one of the plots was for a 1.10 IIRC
im getting a twin scroll as well now.
Cheers
Yeah me neither. It's really tough not to lol.
Oh yeah, I forgot I gave you a ride the first day lol. Thank you for chiming in too Eduardo! I'm really diggin this turbo.
#32
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Well I'm pulling the engine now. No matter what I tried nothing fixed the smoking. I'm going to open it up and make sure everything is good inside. I WILL get this thing to stop using/losing oil lol. I won't dyno with it smoking, hell no. I tried to get it tuned with this problem, thinking it was just fuel related, and it was so bad it smoked out their shop.
#34
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Yeah, but now I have an ignition problem I think LOL. I drove it home (Illinois/Missouri) on leave and on the way I started having a problem where it bucks a lot once I get close to where boost is supposed to cut off. It's almost like it's hitting fuel cut but it wasn't at higher altitude so I'm not sure what's going on. I think I may have also fouled a plug or something because my rear rotor EGT was getting really low during boost, like around 7-900 and the front rotor was pretty constant, and then after letting off it would get hot up to round 17-1900. I swapped plugs today and drove it again. It doesn't have the EGT issue anymore, other than the front rotor getting hot under boost now and the rear rotor is acting normal again. So weird. But it's still bucking. I unplugged the Twin Power and it didn't make any changes, so I'm not sure if maybe it's bad and I'm blowing out spark or what's going on yet. If I can get ahold of some coil packs while I'm here I'll swap those out and see what happens, but if not I may be screwed until I get back.
It still drives fine and boosts fine up to a certain point, but once it gets to between 1.4 bar and 1.6 bar it bucks really bad. So since it acted the same without the Twin Power hooked up, you'd think that would tell me that it went out completely, but it could also be something to do with the fuel system I guess. Today I did notice that my AFRs are hitting around 11 and then shooting up after it bucks, then back down to 11 and then back up, but I guess that would make sense since it's like when I let off the gas and they shoot up at first.
Before that it was awesome though! I absolutely love this turbo. When I was on the highway, I would cruise in 5th gear around 3500rpm (JDM tranny) and if I needed to pass someone I didn't even downshift, just went right around them because the turbo was practically fully spooled already. I can feel it pulling at 2000rpm also.
It still drives fine and boosts fine up to a certain point, but once it gets to between 1.4 bar and 1.6 bar it bucks really bad. So since it acted the same without the Twin Power hooked up, you'd think that would tell me that it went out completely, but it could also be something to do with the fuel system I guess. Today I did notice that my AFRs are hitting around 11 and then shooting up after it bucks, then back down to 11 and then back up, but I guess that would make sense since it's like when I let off the gas and they shoot up at first.
Before that it was awesome though! I absolutely love this turbo. When I was on the highway, I would cruise in 5th gear around 3500rpm (JDM tranny) and if I needed to pass someone I didn't even downshift, just went right around them because the turbo was practically fully spooled already. I can feel it pulling at 2000rpm also.
#35
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Erik,
Is this only happening at sea level? Did you lower your boost amount? You tuned the car at higher elevation so you might be going off your fuel/ignition map of what you are tuned for.
If you tuned up to 20 PSI at our elevation. 11.9 PSI + 20 PSI = 31.9 MAP.
If you are boosting 20 PSI at sea level thats 14.7+ 20 = 34.7 MAP
so you are introducing higher pressure into your engine at sea level. Not sure if you accounted for this or not. I also don't know how your tune is. Just something to look into since you said it only happens at max boost.
Is this only happening at sea level? Did you lower your boost amount? You tuned the car at higher elevation so you might be going off your fuel/ignition map of what you are tuned for.
If you tuned up to 20 PSI at our elevation. 11.9 PSI + 20 PSI = 31.9 MAP.
If you are boosting 20 PSI at sea level thats 14.7+ 20 = 34.7 MAP
so you are introducing higher pressure into your engine at sea level. Not sure if you accounted for this or not. I also don't know how your tune is. Just something to look into since you said it only happens at max boost.
#36
I'm the Juggernaut BITCH!
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Erik,
Is this only happening at sea level? Did you lower your boost amount? You tuned the car at higher elevation so you might be going off your fuel/ignition map of what you are tuned for.
If you tuned up to 20 PSI at our elevation. 11.9 PSI + 20 PSI = 31.9 MAP.
If you are boosting 20 PSI at sea level thats 14.7+ 20 = 34.7 MAP
so you are introducing higher pressure into your engine at sea level. Not sure if you accounted for this or not. I also don't know how your tune is. Just something to look into since you said it only happens at max boost.
Is this only happening at sea level? Did you lower your boost amount? You tuned the car at higher elevation so you might be going off your fuel/ignition map of what you are tuned for.
If you tuned up to 20 PSI at our elevation. 11.9 PSI + 20 PSI = 31.9 MAP.
If you are boosting 20 PSI at sea level thats 14.7+ 20 = 34.7 MAP
so you are introducing higher pressure into your engine at sea level. Not sure if you accounted for this or not. I also don't know how your tune is. Just something to look into since you said it only happens at max boost.
#37
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Yep that's exactly what it was lol. I looked at my fuel map last night and in Settings 1 for Boost Control it was set to 1.20. I changed it to 1.45 and tested it today and it was fixed. And OH BOY was it fixed lol. I'm going to do another pull tomorrow to put into Virtual Dyno and see what it says for this altitude. Maybe I'll do another datalog of AFRs and retune for this altitude first, but the current AFRs are looking pretty good actually. I'll post up the Virtual Dyno results tomorrow.
#38
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The awesome part now is you can boost higher PSI at that elevation and maintain a lower Pressure ratio. It's like cheating down there at sea level.
I think you only need to tune the new cells you are hitting at the top end (rows) of your map.
I think you only need to tune the new cells you are hitting at the top end (rows) of your map.
#39
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I didn't actually do any tuning adjustments today. I did a couple runs for the Virtual Dyno today, but I don't think one of the runs saved and the other one gave me a super low reading for what it should be, so I'm trying to figure out what I did wrong in the software. I ended up hitting 1.72 bar today which is higher than what I usually hit.
#41
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Well when I did all the numbers at altitude, using true numbers it made 367hp and with altitude correction it made 461hp, but when I did it down here it was only saying like 375hp down here and at higher boost. That doesn't make sense at all.
#43
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No, other than that I'm still super happy with this turbo and I don't see that changing haha.
I didn't get time to do another run at lower altitude, so it will be quite a while before I get that info. I am thinking about hitting an actual dyno though to see what it says.
I didn't get time to do another run at lower altitude, so it will be quite a while before I get that info. I am thinking about hitting an actual dyno though to see what it says.
#44
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Oh also, I think I forgot to mention I rebuilt the engine back in July and it's doing fantastic now. No smoking, no burning oil, strong as an ox so far. This car is pretty much exactly where I want it to be. It would be nice if it were a bit quieter, and I could take care of part of that by installing a Racing Beat exhaust, but I still have my open dump tubes on the wastegates and I'd like to kill that noise as well. And possibly a little softer suspension for more comfy street driving...and installing heat and AC again. But other than that, it's right where I want it lol.
#45
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So I am contemplating getting an EFR 7670 with the 0.92 A/R housing and internal wastegate. I also want the spool up to be fast and don't care much about big dyno numbers. I know the internal wastegate and turbine size will be a limiting factor when it comes to higher airflow rates and 350+ HP.
My engine is a stock port with 3mm apex seals with about 30k miles on it and stock twins with 90k leaking oil all over the place and cant hold more than about 9psi boost pressure since I moved to Denver. I am looking to get rid of that ridiculous twin set up and go with a small single. I still have pretty much everything stock other than a Power FC and commander, SS downpipe, Mazdaspeed aluminum radiator, Aluminum Air Seperation Tank and silcone vacuum hoses. Am correct in thinking I should be ok with stock fuel system for 300-350 shaft HP? Maybe need to upgrade secondary injectors and Fuel pump?
I don't know who makes a no wastegate twin scroll manifold but I bet since full race makes this one for the EFR
Mazda RX7 (FD) 13B EFR EWG Twin Scroll Turbo Manifold - Full-Race.com
I could get them to make me one without the wastegate dumps. Maybe someone out there knows another T4 divided manifold without wastegate dumps. I know if I went with external gates I could make more power but I just don't want that noise.
Using the Matchbot I come up with these calculations for 12psi
BorgWarner MatchBot
And this one for 15psi
BorgWarner MatchBot
Based on how you describe the spool i dont think its unreasonable to be at 12-15psi by 3k RPM and feel the spool up starting at 2 - 2.5k. I think I would be changing the intercooler and exhaust along with the turbo. Your transient response should be a little better with that porting than mine on stock ports.
Also, I guess I was looking for some words of wisdom for what to use for oil and water lines and how to route them.
Does anyone know who has that particular model EFR turbo in stock. I suppose I could order one from full race and wait and start all the mods needed before the turbo is installed.
My engine is a stock port with 3mm apex seals with about 30k miles on it and stock twins with 90k leaking oil all over the place and cant hold more than about 9psi boost pressure since I moved to Denver. I am looking to get rid of that ridiculous twin set up and go with a small single. I still have pretty much everything stock other than a Power FC and commander, SS downpipe, Mazdaspeed aluminum radiator, Aluminum Air Seperation Tank and silcone vacuum hoses. Am correct in thinking I should be ok with stock fuel system for 300-350 shaft HP? Maybe need to upgrade secondary injectors and Fuel pump?
I don't know who makes a no wastegate twin scroll manifold but I bet since full race makes this one for the EFR
Mazda RX7 (FD) 13B EFR EWG Twin Scroll Turbo Manifold - Full-Race.com
I could get them to make me one without the wastegate dumps. Maybe someone out there knows another T4 divided manifold without wastegate dumps. I know if I went with external gates I could make more power but I just don't want that noise.
Using the Matchbot I come up with these calculations for 12psi
BorgWarner MatchBot
And this one for 15psi
BorgWarner MatchBot
Based on how you describe the spool i dont think its unreasonable to be at 12-15psi by 3k RPM and feel the spool up starting at 2 - 2.5k. I think I would be changing the intercooler and exhaust along with the turbo. Your transient response should be a little better with that porting than mine on stock ports.
Also, I guess I was looking for some words of wisdom for what to use for oil and water lines and how to route them.
Does anyone know who has that particular model EFR turbo in stock. I suppose I could order one from full race and wait and start all the mods needed before the turbo is installed.
#46
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If you find two in stock anywhere let me know. Still waiting for mine from full race about 8 months now... Apparently it is getting close. Thankfully not a major problem yet as the car is still in the build but will be a problem soon.
#47
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So I am contemplating getting an EFR 7670 with the 0.92 A/R housing and internal wastegate. I also want the spool up to be fast and don't care much about big dyno numbers. I know the internal wastegate and turbine size will be a limiting factor when it comes to higher airflow rates and 350+ HP.
My engine is a stock port with 3mm apex seals with about 30k miles on it and stock twins with 90k leaking oil all over the place and cant hold more than about 9psi boost pressure since I moved to Denver. I am looking to get rid of that ridiculous twin set up and go with a small single. I still have pretty much everything stock other than a Power FC and commander, SS downpipe, Mazdaspeed aluminum radiator, Aluminum Air Seperation Tank and silcone vacuum hoses. Am correct in thinking I should be ok with stock fuel system for 300-350 shaft HP? Maybe need to upgrade secondary injectors and Fuel pump?
I don't know who makes a no wastegate twin scroll manifold but I bet since full race makes this one for the EFR
Mazda RX7 (FD) 13B EFR EWG Twin Scroll Turbo Manifold - Full-Race.com
I could get them to make me one without the wastegate dumps. Maybe someone out there knows another T4 divided manifold without wastegate dumps. I know if I went with external gates I could make more power but I just don't want that noise.
Using the Matchbot I come up with these calculations for 12psi
BorgWarner MatchBot
And this one for 15psi
BorgWarner MatchBot
Based on how you describe the spool i dont think its unreasonable to be at 12-15psi by 3k RPM and feel the spool up starting at 2 - 2.5k. I think I would be changing the intercooler and exhaust along with the turbo. Your transient response should be a little better with that porting than mine on stock ports.
Also, I guess I was looking for some words of wisdom for what to use for oil and water lines and how to route them.
Does anyone know who has that particular model EFR turbo in stock. I suppose I could order one from full race and wait and start all the mods needed before the turbo is installed.
My engine is a stock port with 3mm apex seals with about 30k miles on it and stock twins with 90k leaking oil all over the place and cant hold more than about 9psi boost pressure since I moved to Denver. I am looking to get rid of that ridiculous twin set up and go with a small single. I still have pretty much everything stock other than a Power FC and commander, SS downpipe, Mazdaspeed aluminum radiator, Aluminum Air Seperation Tank and silcone vacuum hoses. Am correct in thinking I should be ok with stock fuel system for 300-350 shaft HP? Maybe need to upgrade secondary injectors and Fuel pump?
I don't know who makes a no wastegate twin scroll manifold but I bet since full race makes this one for the EFR
Mazda RX7 (FD) 13B EFR EWG Twin Scroll Turbo Manifold - Full-Race.com
I could get them to make me one without the wastegate dumps. Maybe someone out there knows another T4 divided manifold without wastegate dumps. I know if I went with external gates I could make more power but I just don't want that noise.
Using the Matchbot I come up with these calculations for 12psi
BorgWarner MatchBot
And this one for 15psi
BorgWarner MatchBot
Based on how you describe the spool i dont think its unreasonable to be at 12-15psi by 3k RPM and feel the spool up starting at 2 - 2.5k. I think I would be changing the intercooler and exhaust along with the turbo. Your transient response should be a little better with that porting than mine on stock ports.
Also, I guess I was looking for some words of wisdom for what to use for oil and water lines and how to route them.
Does anyone know who has that particular model EFR turbo in stock. I suppose I could order one from full race and wait and start all the mods needed before the turbo is installed.
I understand your concern with spool, but with the amount the rotary breathes a 1.05 has amazingly fast spool and a decent top end too. It actually spools so fast and strong that I have to use the AVC-R to drop boost duty cycle for first and second gears, and even a little on third gear.
Since you're in Denver PM me so we can exchange numbers and I can hit you up next time I'm in town and give you a ride so you can see for yourself. I don't remember at what HP level the stock fuel system is maxed, but I'd do at least larger secondaries and a fuel pump. I'd do the fuel pump rewire also if you haven't already.
I went to a local race shop (and by that I mean he usually doesn't take on customers like myself, he usually only builds actual race cars and does work for racing teams), and I supplied the flanges and he had some 321 stainless laying around that he used to make a manifold with really short runners like I wanted. Here is a pic of it mounted on the car...
And I'm now planning on plumbing my WGs back into the exhaust. It'll be a complete bitch to take out and reinstall but oh well lol. I want to quiet down the exhaust so it's a little more sleeper, at least dealing with noise.
I'm hitting spool and just about those boost levels by that time with my setup. It shouldn't be a problem for you. And the oil feed line will come from the same place as stock (the top of the front iron, near the power steering pump); the drain line will go to the drain port on the front iron, where the front drain of the stock turbos go (that's how most, if not all, people do it anyway). The coolant for the turbo will come from and go to the same places as stock also. The oil feed line can be bought at most of the shops online, usually stainless steel braided and I'd get one about 18" long. Oil drain line use either ss braided or rubber or whatever, and probably just rubber hose for the coolant lines.
That sucks. I was hoping to buy a second one just in case something happens to this one LOL. You'll absolutely love the turbo though!
#49
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Thanks! Yeah I love whatever size turbo gives fast spool haha. I went with bigger singles in the past but I always wanted spool similar to the stock twins, and I finally have that.
Virtual Dyno is a program. You datalog a run and plug in the info and it will spit out your torque and hp, and even plot it on the graph. Supposedly it's within 5% accurate, but I'd still like to get on an actual dyno so I know for sure.
Virtual Dyno is a program. You datalog a run and plug in the info and it will spit out your torque and hp, and even plot it on the graph. Supposedly it's within 5% accurate, but I'd still like to get on an actual dyno so I know for sure.