350whp and 310 tq @ 17psi with Torco Racing fuel mix.
Is this a little low for my set-up below???

Half-Bridge
Turbonetics BB turbocharger
50 Wastegate
FPR
Walborol Fuel Pump
Front Mount
805 Pr and 1300 Sec
Greddy Spec B controller
Butterfly removed
upgrade radiator


Tune at KDR performance in Allentown PA with Dave

This is what he said.

When i bought the car in it vaccum @ about -410 to -420 keep on bouncing

After about 3 runs it started to get lower in vaccum -400 to -410

so after some more tuning we only able to make those number up top and the vaccum was at about -390 to -405, He said that this is not good. The vaccum number is getting lower and lower we might have done something bad to the engine and he won't want to tune it for any higher boost level.

Also he said that the factory coil packs was not holding up, at high RPM it missed fire and that i needed to get an aftermarket one (MSD).

But from what i've noticed so far after that is that my vaccum no matter what is stays the same @ about -395 to -415 it keeps on bouncing around. Is that ok or is my engine bad and how about the numbers on the dyno. i thought with this set up i could easily get 400whp. Is there something that i need to replace or change to make that much horse?

 

How big is your turbo, size model eg Wheel Sizes, Rear A/R?
Also Vacuum on a bridge does bounce a little with the brap brap noise.
What condition are your plugs in, are they new?
FD or FC?
What AFR did you have on boost?
If its missing then a HKS Twin Power may help along with replacement stock coil packs.
Get it compression tested with a Rotary Compression tester, you should get above 7 BAR on all faces.

 

93 FD
.68 and .96 hotside
Are you talking about sparksplugs? Yes they are new.
How do you tell your AFR i looked at the print and it's around 12 flat from 5k rpm to 7.5k rpm does this help?
Yeah i'll either go with the twin packs or MSD do you know how much they are for?
also can i do the compression test myself, i bought one from Auto Advanced part is this ok?

 

There is nothing wrong with your vaccum. Mine is around there for years. And that is tracked/dyned various times and after two ems changes.

It seems low to me. At 15psi on a dyno jet my car apparently made (Dyno sheet available) 410rwhp and like 303rwtq. On a To4b60-1 .96a/r on my 1988 TII. (street port) On a mustang dyno it made 380rwhp with some fueling still need to be sorted out on the E8.

What I've noticed that playing with the timing on idle and fuel ratio's the vaccum will change abit.

But I'm no expert.............. Maybe without changing anything your numbers were getting lower which may indicate something?

 

what kind of dyno was it on? and you need to go more in depth about the turbo, a/r's on the housings dont help at all right now.

 

try using a T2 leading coil, my friend made over 550rwhp just on the coil without an ignition box

 

what measurement are those vacuum numbers in?

 

whats your max timing at?

 

It was on a DynoJet (that's what it said on the paper)
To be honest this is all i know about the turbo
Turbonetics made it, BB turbocharger .68 and .96 hotside. 4"intake and 3" exhualt (pic for comparison)

i don't know what measurement the AFR is in but look at the dyno sheet to see if you can tell.

Also do you guys think that i should bring this to PF Supercars to get it tune just to see if they can make a different?

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/F...-tq_159063.htm

 

Also here's the pic of Dyno tuning

 

Power FC uses mm Hg for vacuum. 400 is about 16 inches.

I'd check to make sure your oil metering pump is functioning correctly.......have you ever had an oil related problem with your FD?

 

did anybody see how quickly the manifold started glowing(reflection)? for these low boost numbers that seems awfully quick, or is it just me? your AFR's are really lean until like 5k on one pull and 4.5k on the other. we can only diagnose so much from our arm chairs, i would deff take it to someone for a second opinion.

yes if you can i would take the car to pfs, i have heard nothing but good things about them.

 

GoodfellaFD3S - I haven't got any problem with it yet, well not that i would know. How can you tell if you do or not. To me the car has been running fine ever since the new engine was installed.

And yes i would definitely bring it PFS for a second opinion

 

1st off that dyno pull stops at 6000rpm.

2nd, is the BOV JB Welded on????

 

The reason why he stop at 6k rpm is because he said that it started to miss fire. But from the video and from being there i didn't here it at all after the spark plugs changed after the second pull. But that's why anyhow.

Also no the BOV flange is not welded on, i used metal-epoxy to hold it on, but this stuff is tough and there's no sign of leaking at all.

So does anyone know or can tell me if there's a way of know if my oil meter pump is bad by any chance?

 

The good ole "misfire"! I love that one! Can't tell you how many times I heard that one!! I suppose its true, you can't teach old dogs new tricks especially when it comes to tuning. Next thing you'll be told is "the reason your engine blew is because the electrode fell off the plug and went into your motor", lol....uuuuhhh wouldn't have anything to do with the massive detonation that happens when you CAN'T TUNE a skin flute! Oh wait, better yet, he can sell you that fabulous "anti detonation" device! Cap off two of your spark plugs and charge you $500 for it! Good luck. Your gonna need it.
Sorry to rain so hard on you bro. It doesn't help your cause, I know. Take your car to another shop that has a "GOOD" reputation for tuning.

 

Metal Epoxy= JB Weld.

Have you ever had any oil related problems with you car?

 

Hehe sorry didn't know it was call JB weld, By the way i don't know if i have ever had any problems with my oil. I noticed that i had to add a bottle of oil in just before the recent oil changed. For some reason it was low on oil. but that was that nothing else. But how can you tell if your oil metering pump is bad? because i have an extra engine laying in the garage for parts.

By the way ErnieT do you think that KDR didn't do a good job of tuning my car? I am going to bring my car to PFS to get it tune again for a second opinion.

 

swap the pumps out, it's easy enough.

 

Ray will be able to tell you your compression prior to starting. That way you know how bad your previous tuner hurt things. And without question you will get a better tune from Ray.

 

This is the third time this question has been asked in this thread.....have you ever had any oil related problems with the car? ie spun bearing?

It's pretty damn difficuly to tell of the OMP is functioning correctly. You can use the PFC etc/sensor-switch check menu to see if the voltage rises with throttle, but this can't tell you if it's mechanically fubar'ed.

 

Just run 4oz. of pre-mix for every 12-15 gallons of pump gas and your covered.

 

Well i have never had any oil problems that i know of, but is this considered one of them. Before the recent oil change i found that i had to add an extra bottle of oil into the engine, because the warning light came on. So is this considering an oil problem??? i thought it was normal for it to burn oil. Also i've paid attention to my oil meter on the dash board. Yes it does increase as i step on the gas but sometime it stay at like zero if i go slow or stop.

And as "jamespond24 said - try using a T2 leading coil, my friend made over 550rwhp just on the coil without an ignition box" is this ok to be doing, just want to know because i can get these with out paying anything for it instead of spending couple hundred of dollars when this is free.

 

Before you start changing a bunch of things on your car, take it to a reputable shop. Have them look it over, do a compression check, then go from there.

 

you are talking about the oil pressure guage. that is totally different from the oil metering pump(there is no guage for this) you should deffinately get an aftermarrket oil pressure guage so you can get an accurate reading. the factory guage is notorious for reading wrong. but, if it is correct and you are going to zero or right above zero at idle, you have a SERIOUS problem.