Dyno my GT35/40 setup tonight!
Dyno my GT35/40 setup tonight!
Stock motor, rest of my mods in the sig.
Still have stock map sensor so I won't exceed 17.2 - 17.5 psi. Shooting for 440rwhp, will be happy with 420rwhp.
New pineapple LARGE street ported engine arrives next week, so after today's dyno the stock engine comes out and we move onward with fresh!
K
Still have stock map sensor so I won't exceed 17.2 - 17.5 psi. Shooting for 440rwhp, will be happy with 420rwhp.
New pineapple LARGE street ported engine arrives next week, so after today's dyno the stock engine comes out and we move onward with fresh!

K
Yea,
Right now im running a 12 split. I will do a 10lb and 12lb run then drop the split to 8 at 12lbs of boost and see if there is a difference. I think Nocab will also be playing with his split.
Jason
Right now im running a 12 split. I will do a 10lb and 12lb run then drop the split to 8 at 12lbs of boost and see if there is a difference. I think Nocab will also be playing with his split.
Jason
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Good Luck guys.
Hey Jason, didn't Bryan at BNR build your motor? How do you like it so far? My motor is getting shipped to him next week for a Race Port. What kind did you get? I should finally be able to buy my GT35/40 from you in 2-3 weeks after I get my motor back. I am very interested to see what kind of numbers nocab72 will be putting down with his with a stock motor. Who is doing the tuning? As you know I am bringing my car out there once everyhting is finished to have you guys work on it. I guess Badog can work the PFC pretty well.
Sorry to doubt, but 440rwhp and a 113mph trap just don't equal out. I am guessing around 360-380rwhp after the tuning. Maybe more but I would not go in hoping for 420rwhp or 440rwhp. But good luck with it all. Maybe your car just needs a good tuning. What about your motor, how much more do you think that a Pineapple Streetported motor will help you? We will be around the same setup after your motor is in and I get my car put back together. So I hope you throw some mad numbers down so I can hope for the same.
Scott
Hey Jason, didn't Bryan at BNR build your motor? How do you like it so far? My motor is getting shipped to him next week for a Race Port. What kind did you get? I should finally be able to buy my GT35/40 from you in 2-3 weeks after I get my motor back. I am very interested to see what kind of numbers nocab72 will be putting down with his with a stock motor. Who is doing the tuning? As you know I am bringing my car out there once everyhting is finished to have you guys work on it. I guess Badog can work the PFC pretty well.
Sorry to doubt, but 440rwhp and a 113mph trap just don't equal out. I am guessing around 360-380rwhp after the tuning. Maybe more but I would not go in hoping for 420rwhp or 440rwhp. But good luck with it all. Maybe your car just needs a good tuning. What about your motor, how much more do you think that a Pineapple Streetported motor will help you? We will be around the same setup after your motor is in and I get my car put back together. So I hope you throw some mad numbers down so I can hope for the same.
Scott
I will know tonight if I like the motor I got from BNR 
The ports looked really good.
Nocab was running really rich at that track on those runs. Right now Im just waiting to get on the dyno, Im 7th in line
Let me know when you need the turbo kit I will have one in stock soon.
Jason

The ports looked really good.
Nocab was running really rich at that track on those runs. Right now Im just waiting to get on the dyno, Im 7th in line

Let me know when you need the turbo kit I will have one in stock soon.
Jason
It should be in about 3 weeks at most. I am buying a house right now so my money is tied up a bit, plus me blowing my motor didn't help either. Did you get a Streetport? How long did Bryan have your motor? I have to get my motor back first then get my Turbo kit. Then get my body kit. So I am also ordering a FEED replica bumper from you as well when I order my Turbo Kit. When does the weather go bad out there? I should be ready in November, does the weather suck around there in November? Also where are you dynoing at? Who is tuning? Scott
The motor has a large port and probably considered a race port.
We are dynoing at my shop tonight. A local guy has a mobile dyno and sets up out front.
Badog is doing the tuning and we are using a wideband with the datalogit software.
We dont get much snow in November so it shouldnt be bad.
Jason
We are dynoing at my shop tonight. A local guy has a mobile dyno and sets up out front.
Badog is doing the tuning and we are using a wideband with the datalogit software.
We dont get much snow in November so it shouldnt be bad.
Jason
Originally posted by Jason
Both Nocab and I will be hogging the dyno tonight. We will post the numbers tomorrow.
Jason
Both Nocab and I will be hogging the dyno tonight. We will post the numbers tomorrow.
Jason
Originally posted by Jason
The motor has a large port and probably considered a race port.
We are dynoing at my shop tonight. A local guy has a mobile dyno and sets up out front.
Badog is doing the tuning and we are using a wideband with the datalogit software.
We dont get much snow in November so it shouldnt be bad.
Jason
The motor has a large port and probably considered a race port.
We are dynoing at my shop tonight. A local guy has a mobile dyno and sets up out front.
Badog is doing the tuning and we are using a wideband with the datalogit software.
We dont get much snow in November so it shouldnt be bad.
Jason
tried and true/tested home brew..20 years of experience..lol
Well we did about 7 pulls starting at 12lbs of boost and working up to around 15lbs. We had a good tune with A/F around 11-11.5 all the way through. At 12lbs it put down around 370RWHP. At 15lbs it was at 425RWHP. On the 7th pull it broke up hard at around 7200rpm and I think the motor let go. 
I wont know until tomorrow, but it doesnt look good. There should be no reason it would blow, A/F was great if not a little rich, low knock and timing was conservative. I will let you know what I find tomorrow.
Jason

I wont know until tomorrow, but it doesnt look good. There should be no reason it would blow, A/F was great if not a little rich, low knock and timing was conservative. I will let you know what I find tomorrow.
Jason
Man that sucks. I hope it was nothing serious. How did nocab72 do? 425rwhp sounds pretty good for a T78@15lbs. Let me know what you find out about your motor since I am having mine done there next week. What do you think happened?
I sentyou an order idea for my car from RX7Store if you could take a look at it and let me know what else I need and what I don't.
Scott
I sentyou an order idea for my car from RX7Store if you could take a look at it and let me know what else I need and what I don't.
Scott
It got to late and Nocab will be dynoing tomorrow. I have no clue why the motor would go. It was not a A/F or timing issue and we were running conservative boost. It just broke up at 7200 and wouldnt start after. Im to tired to do a compression test 
Jason

Jason
Jason, that is not good news 
I feel for you man. I agree that those parameters you witnessed should not be the issue, but as all things in life and especially in racing tuned rotaries there are many variables. I hope you get a handle on it. We need you ready for a certain race happening in the spring/summer

I feel for you man. I agree that those parameters you witnessed should not be the issue, but as all things in life and especially in racing tuned rotaries there are many variables. I hope you get a handle on it. We need you ready for a certain race happening in the spring/summer
What was your Charge temp (post IC) ? on the run with the engine misfire. What timing was in it at that stage ?
I run pump gas for 472 rwhp (dynapack) = 484 rwhp (dynojet) but with WI and 12deg advance @ max power, my charge temp was below 40deg C (104 F) ... 100 ron octane.
It is not unheard of to have a component failure or related system problem that would result in an engine failure, keep us posted if I can be of any help PM me.
Best Regards
Pete
I run pump gas for 472 rwhp (dynapack) = 484 rwhp (dynojet) but with WI and 12deg advance @ max power, my charge temp was below 40deg C (104 F) ... 100 ron octane.
It is not unheard of to have a component failure or related system problem that would result in an engine failure, keep us posted if I can be of any help PM me.
Best Regards
Pete
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,835
Likes: 494
From: Stockton, CA
a/f
Jason:
You were using the DIY WB right? Make sure you mount the Lambda sensor away from the turbo. It should be mounted at the end of the downpipe. The stock oxygen sensor mounting point is too close to the turbo and too hot for the sensor. When the lambda sensor is overheated, it will give a lower number a/f reading. For example, if your true a/f is 14.0 but because the sensor is overheated, it will give you a 12.0 a/f reading. Good luck on your motor.
I learned this on my Greddy a/f meter. I just screw in the sensor at the stock O2 sensor location and the sensor is overheated all the time even crusing at 80mph indicated by the overheating warning light on the gauge.
Chuck Huang
You were using the DIY WB right? Make sure you mount the Lambda sensor away from the turbo. It should be mounted at the end of the downpipe. The stock oxygen sensor mounting point is too close to the turbo and too hot for the sensor. When the lambda sensor is overheated, it will give a lower number a/f reading. For example, if your true a/f is 14.0 but because the sensor is overheated, it will give you a 12.0 a/f reading. Good luck on your motor.
I learned this on my Greddy a/f meter. I just screw in the sensor at the stock O2 sensor location and the sensor is overheated all the time even crusing at 80mph indicated by the overheating warning light on the gauge.
Chuck Huang
Originally posted by Jason
Well we did about 7 pulls starting at 12lbs of boost and working up to around 15lbs. We had a good tune with A/F around 11-11.5 all the way through. At 12lbs it put down around 370RWHP. At 15lbs it was at 425RWHP.
Well we did about 7 pulls starting at 12lbs of boost and working up to around 15lbs. We had a good tune with A/F around 11-11.5 all the way through. At 12lbs it put down around 370RWHP. At 15lbs it was at 425RWHP.
55RWHP gain from 3psi boost is crazy, its in a better state of tune at 15psi than it is at 12psi thats for sure with numbers like that
Damn I wish I could have been there to see it!
And then you're swapping engines? Jeez you're a madman!

Maybe I should move back to columbus eh? hey, at least I wouldn't have to worry about smog tests...
And then you're swapping engines? Jeez you're a madman!

Maybe I should move back to columbus eh? hey, at least I wouldn't have to worry about smog tests...
What plugs were you using during your dyno pulls ?
I have seen engines "pop" with 1 bar boost and richer a/f ratios, moderate advance after extended running on too hot a heat range plug. This may not be you problem but it just another point to check I suppose. It is one of the many issues I have come across. The plug heat range sensitivity is dependent not only on charge temp, but also engine temp (oil/water) if these get quite hot they can cause a problem too.
The sensor placement is critical, I only ever install sensors either in the exhaust just after the drivers door, or at the back of the exhaust system, most WB sensors accuracy are effected alot by pressure which will throw the result out quite alot, this effect is not compensated for in ANY WB unit no matter how much it costs, that is why it is impertive to insatll the sensor in a location where exhaust back pressure will be very low as to not give a inacurate result.
Bit more info, but you can never have enough when you are trying to find out "what" caused the failure.
I have seen engines "pop" with 1 bar boost and richer a/f ratios, moderate advance after extended running on too hot a heat range plug. This may not be you problem but it just another point to check I suppose. It is one of the many issues I have come across. The plug heat range sensitivity is dependent not only on charge temp, but also engine temp (oil/water) if these get quite hot they can cause a problem too.
The sensor placement is critical, I only ever install sensors either in the exhaust just after the drivers door, or at the back of the exhaust system, most WB sensors accuracy are effected alot by pressure which will throw the result out quite alot, this effect is not compensated for in ANY WB unit no matter how much it costs, that is why it is impertive to insatll the sensor in a location where exhaust back pressure will be very low as to not give a inacurate result.
Bit more info, but you can never have enough when you are trying to find out "what" caused the failure.






