Chaotic_FC

to start i would really appreciate if this stayed in the single turbo section, i need the traffic.

I am building a dry sumped 13b, and have a question about the engine position. My oil "plate" will only be 3/4 of an inch thick, so it makes no sense to have the engine in the stock position. I took measurements today however though, and it looks like the steering rack gets in my way to be able to lower it.

what do people normally do when they instal dry sump? do they just mount the engine back up in the stock location? do they go through the trouble to re-position the steering rack forward in order to allow clearance for a lowered engine. It looks like it would need to go forward about 2 inches.

Any input would be great. I am about to start fabbing my turbo manifold, and i need to know where my engine is sitting before i start.

thanks in advanced.

-zander

turbodsm17

i would move the engine back and down.

Chaotic_FC

that would require a shorter driveshaft though.. idk whether that is in my budget.

13B-RX3

iTrader: (2)

What will the car's primary purpose be?

Chaotic_FC

a little bit of everything.
it will be driven as a daily driver however, so for something i use so often, i want it to be done, and done right.

13B-RX3

iTrader: (2)

Put it back in the stock location IMO. Lowering the engine is not going to do much for you in a street car.

Chaotic_FC

I know it isn't that much of a difference, i just would much rather not waste the chance to lower the heaviest part of the car 4 inches when i could have.
all that i am wondering, is how have people approached this before?

turbodsm17

what do you need the dry sump on it for in the first place? Usually this option is reserved for purely track cars..
If you want to take full advantage of the dry sump, move it back and down. If you have the cash for a dry sump system, then a 500$ custom drive shaft wont hurt the wallet too much..

Chaotic_FC

im not to sure if i want to do that.. but if its the only way, then mabey i'll have to.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

moving the rack screws up the steering geometery, aka bumpsteer.

as an aside how can you have a dry sump in the budget but not afford to shorten a driveshaft?

Chaotic_FC

because my dry sump was 250$ used, but in good condition.
and because im building the system, not buying.

rebarrage

yeah i agree move then engine back I know a place here in Ohio that makes lightweight balanced driveshafts for under $100. Called Dayton Driveline they can make any thing you want if you give them the yokes.

Chaotic_FC

ok, thanks a lot! I'll look into it.

tasty danish

iTrader: (5)

I had a local guy make a custom driveshaft for me totally from scratch for 300. I bet you could shorten your stocker for half that.

nitronatefc

iTrader: (2)

Won't moving the engine back or down require you to fab custom transmission mounts, and modify the shifter to line up in the hole properly? I think there is a lot more to consider than a new driveshaft

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

So what all did you get for your $250?
Bottom plate, dry sump front cover, lines, pump, pulley, and reservior?
Whose system? Got any pics...I'd love to know just for my education since I'd love to know how to build a dry sump system on a low budget. The Mazda factory setup begins at $2k.

Regards,
Crispy

Chaotic_FC

I got the dry sump pump alone for $250
It came off of a V8 midget race car that was upgrading to a 5 stage pump, it was off of ebay.
The bottom plate is a 3/4 inch thick piece of aluminum, and it cost like $80 I think.
I still have to buy the lines, oil coolers, fab the mounts, and get the belt and pully.. but its defiantly a deal.

you can see the pump and the oil "plate" in this pic, as well as all my other metals for my p-port, throttle bodies, intake, and exhaust.

Slevin_FD

iTrader: (26)

Man, i say go for it. I have a top secret project in the works right now. and I'm looking for a dry sump set up too. here's a hint. P-Port FC.