Lord Bro

I'm interested in some opinions, and advice from other's experience as well.

I bought my car with the A-Spec GT35r kit, went through a lot of pain getting everything working again after the engine let go, and now I've faced this particular issue a couple times. The oil return line which comes out of the bottom of the turbo has cracked, slowly dripping oil right near all that hot exhaust. Thankfully this isn't something under pressure, or it could have been worse.

I had the shop replace the line the first time, but now that it's happened again clearly that's not a permanent fix. I've seen a couple of all-metal options for other cars, such as:



or


Benefits of something all-metal is I shouldn't have to worry about heat cycling the material causing cracks and leakage like I'm facing now. Another option is making a totally hard line with flared ends and fittings, but then I'd face the issue of fatigue due to vibration, which also doesn't seem great.

So, for people who this has happened to (or not, because of luck or well engineered setups):

Is all metal an option, with a flex? Has someone done this?
Has anyone done a totally solid line, or is this a bad idea for the reasons above?
Little metal extension Away from everything, then line clamped on as usual?

I do have an extinguisher in the car, but that's a last resort, not something to rely on. So let's have it, what do I do? Also if you've done something awesome and innovative, post pics.

RGHTBrainDesign

Why not a -10AN Nomex Line (Aeroquip Startlite) with Fiberglass (Heat Sleeving) Shielding?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...1003/overview/

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-2519/overview/

Lord Bro

One of those times where you don't know what you don't know. I did assume I would be shielding whatever line I ran, but didn't know you could get Nomex line like that. At the moment then it seems like a metal extension + Aeroquip Startlite would be the way to go.

RGHTBrainDesign

No, you'd want the whole line to be this.

Just get a -10AN adapter for the turbo. They can be found at ATP.

Aluminum - Oil Drain ( return ) Flange (GT25, GT28, GTX28, GTX29, GT30, GTX30, GT35, GTX35, T25, T28 : atpturbo.com

Depends on your turbo though, so do some shopping around.

Lord Bro

GT35r, so not hard to find a flange, looks like the one you linked to would work probably work (will verify). Now it's a pretty tight fit in there and I've only removed/reassembled so much as I build up my experience, so is this possible to do without taking the turbo out of the car? Maybe just by pulling off the compressor housing so my big hands have more room (can I even do that with the turbo in place)?

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

I have a "complicated" setup on my FC, where there is not enough room, turbo sits too close to the front cover, blah blah blah. I made things work by using the following (similar to your suggestions SirLaughsALot):

1 - 13B REW front cover fitting:
Alum 5 Degree Tilt Oil Drain Tube - GT25/GT28/GT30/GT35
Alum 5 Degree Tilt Oil Drain Tube - GT25/GT28/GT30/GT35 : atpturbo.com

2 - Hose
Hi Temp Special Rubber Oil Drain Hose
Hi Temp Special Rubber Oil Drain Hose - 5/8" (-10 AN equivalent ID) : atpturbo.com

3 - Turbo fitting - Cant remember if similar to item #1 but "straight" or if it was a straight -10 AN fitting, with an aeroquip -10 an push lock fitting

4 - DEI Fire Sleeve - Covering 95% of the entire hose/fitting assembly
DEI 010474 Fire Sleeve and Tape Kit Heat Protection for Wires, Hoses, etc., 1" x 3'

5 - Oetiker clamps

So far no more issues, leaks, and best of all, removing/installing the hose and fittings is a BREEZE

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

I was able to do the entire thing without removing anything. It took me longer to remove the AN hose and flanges, than it took me to install the new setup mentioned above. Its amazing how much easier it is when the hose is flexible!

Lord Bro

I think this blue Hi Temp Oil Drain Hose is what I have on there now and has cracked on me twice, right up next to the push-lock fitting that sits up in between the turbo housings (not extended). I think this highlights the difference between materials being good in just continuous high-temp situations, vs. high-temp and repeated heat cycling.

If you can only have a material that can handle one of those things, you have to limit the effect of the other. That's why I like the idea of a hard extension down and away from the hottest area. I would also think a line with a braided exterior (like that Aeroquip Startlite) would be more resistant to thermal fatigue, since it would avoid the issue of surface cracks propagating easily to the inside (but I have nothing to prove this).

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Any other hose will be too rigid, if you have the sapce, go for it. I actually have multiple -10 an fittings and extensions that I tried on my setup, I can let them all or some go for cheap if you need any.

RGHTBrainDesign

I'll buy your stockpile of AN fittings, PM me. Did you say they were Aeroquip AQP Socketless?

silentblu

iTrader: (1)

To the OP. I have something similar to the tube #3 coming off my turbo drain. The tube protrudes maybe half an inch below the turbo footprint.
I even used a random rubber hose from that drain tube to the front cover wrapped with a velcro fire sleeve of course. Been that way for about 3 years with track events in CA weather.
Getting the hose away from the heat is what I think allowed me to use the rubber.
I swapped it to silicon the last time I was under there for piece of mind. When the rubber came off it was still flexible/not brittle either, the velcro heat sleeve needed to be replaced though, but that is all fiberglass pieces, they get crispity crunch after prolonged exposure to heat.
All my exhaust components are ceramic coated and fiberglass wrapped as well, as an FYI.