Hey guys I probably over look something, anyway after converting swaping out my full rich man non-seq BNR stage 3 to single today after putting everything back together I get high Idle. With the single I lost the air pump, can that cause it? Beside the isc which I still have, collant wax, and the idle screw what can cause the high idle?
Thanks,
Khris

 

First verify no vacuum leaks

 

Hey thanks but that was not it, it was indeed that damn coolant wax rod, apprently coolant was not cirulating right but it's fixed now.
Khris

 

Here is what it look like,

 

I just had this issue swapping my bnrs to a Gt35r and had to check the fast idle cam. The idle is smooth now at 1500 with a fresh rebuild but my afr gets up to 14.8 once fully warmed up. I'm trying to get this engine broken in but I don't want it running too lean. Is a high 14 afr too high for idle and cruising speed for break in? Thanks

 

khris.. you dont need coolant flow in your tb.. eliminate it..
your fd only sees warm weather anyway...

 

The fast idle system decreases warmup times, improves idle stability, and can reduce cranking times. I'm not saying nobody should remove it, but it does help driveability no matter what climate you are in. There are legitimate reasons to keep it. If you do eliminate it there are some work-arounds you can do with tuning to compensate.

 

agree ^ and it did not ake allot just a few turns and bingo idle like a champ.

 

never had any issues with idle stability even before tuning..

 

Your throttlebody may have already been adjusted in such a way that you are allowing enough air in to keep idle stable. In my experience, if you remove the fast idle system on an FD (or T2) throttlebody that is still set from the factory you will notice a degradation in idle stability.