2Lucky2tha7

iTrader: (3)

Based upon the information from these 2 sites:

http://www.forcedinductions.com/productsMP.htm

http://forcedinductions.com/mpturbos.htm

I have a Cosmo 13B-RE with high compression rotors (9.7:1), large streetport on both the primaries and secondaries, larger porting on the exhaust ports (ported down and out), Turbo II exhaust sleeves, a 24"x12"x4" intercooler, and a 9.5 lb. flywheel.
I am looking for opinions on which turbo would probably be the best (based upon the information from those 2 sites above), for this setup. I think that one of the factors that will have the biggest impact will be with having the higher compression rotors, so I'm not really sure at this point. The only turbo I will NOT consider will be the GT45 due to it's pricing. (Can't afford it).
So I would appreciate any input.
Thank you.
Brian

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

bobybeach, that is the guy to talk to on this forum as far as masterpower turbos go. Anyways whatever you get is going to have to be tuned very carefully and from what I've heard from many people is that 12psi or so is the highest you can go on those rotors before you get detonation, no matter what you do. With that being said good luck!

2Lucky2tha7

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Hondahater. I am very aware about how carefully this setup must be tuned, which is one of the reasons why I got the biggest intercooler possible. Overall, it's actually 32"12"x4". I will most likely use water injection as well to keep the intake temps as cool as possible. I also know to be very careful on the timing and retard it alot. I don't want to push the stock twins very much because the compressed air will get rather hot the higher the boost. I know Crispeed has done this compression setup as well as someone else (that I can't remember). I read alot of his info, etc. But yeah, I know this is a risky setup, which is why I will try and take every precaution to keep the engine from detonating.

Slammedblk7

iTrader: (7)

on the set up you have..i would consider the Master power t70 with the new gt-q turbine wheel ask bobybeach, He will take care of you!

E.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

I was going to go with this setup but a very well known tuner said not too however it would have been pretty cool if you ask me. One thing I was going to do though was use 3mm apex seals for a little added protection. I was also going to run water/meth injection on that setup as well.

bobybeach

Turbo or compressor size will depend on hp or boost you wont to run,
a gd all round street combo on 13b is the t-60 with p trim .84ar. this uses small T-series compressor specs 60mm/84mm can expect aprox 430whp @ 1bar.

Gt37 57mm/76mm will have better boost responce since it use smaller gt wheel similer to the to4b 60-1. aprox 415whp can be epected @ 1bar

bellow are my best estimates of acheivable whp on 13b.
these can vary up and down depending on turbine ar options and turbine trims.

MP T-58 395whp
MP GT37 415whp
MP T-60 430whp
MP T-61 450whp
MP T64 500whp
MP T70 550whp
MP GT45 600whp
mpTO4E x2 650+whp

Note that the turbo titles used in the forced induction page are incorected or falsly advertised. mp do not do 60-1 or 62-1 wheels. and the 57trim to4e or 60trim to4e are both T-series compressors not to4e's.

2Lucky2tha7

iTrader: (3)

Well, what I wish to achieve is 12-16 psi on the street and about 20 psi on race gas at the track. (mind you, I will try and keep the intake temps as cool as possible. As for targeted rwhp and torque, I honestly couldn't say. As vague as it sounds, the more, the merrier . But to give a better idea, I need a strong midrange and a top end that has a little more pull then the midrange. I dont want the power to come on too late, and I'm possibly looking for atleast a little power down below for cruising, (like I said, maybe a just a little--if possible). I guess just an overall powerful powerband that doesn't fall off the higher you rev it, and one that doesn't come on too late. I would like to have it "hit" (in a way) somewhere through the powerband, if you know what I mean.
Maybe I can sum it up this way:
I need cool intake temps for boost levels of 10-20 psi.
I want to have a powerband that doesn't fall off at higher rpms
I don't want the turbo to spool up, or kick in, wayy too late in the revs
I'm not that picky, but I figured this might help.
I could most likely go into more detail, but I can't think of what else to add as of right now.
Again, remember that this turbo will be for high compression 9.7:1 rotors.
Thank you to anyone that replies.
Regards,
Brian

2Lucky2tha7

iTrader: (3)

Oh yeah, one more thing:
Should I look into having different AR's in the turbo considering that it's a higher compression setup. What is your recommendation?? I also cannot spend anything over $900-$1000 on a turbo, so anything that's priced below that, I will buy. If there are marginal differences between a cheaper turbo and a more expensive turbo, I would rather settle for the cheaper one. This is a streetcar, not a drag car, and I don't need every ounce of horsepower that I possibly need. What I do need however, are cool intake temps for pressures between 10-20 psi.
Regards,
Brian

bobybeach

cool intake temps wont be a problem at that level of boost.
id recomend gt37, t-60 or t-61 with .84ar for 12-16psi street setup.

i havent had much experience with high compression rotors on boosted engines. In theory this should make stronger early torque. so i gues you could afford to run larger ar's. but .84 flows enough, so may as well stick with .84 and see if you can bring the boost in sooner.

2Lucky2tha7

iTrader: (3)

Hey Oliver, I hope you don't mind, but I really wanted to post up what you pm'd me. I found it to be EXTREMELY helpful in choosing which turbo that will best suit my needs!!!
Thank you!!!

"on 13b stageII you can expect to see max compressor flow of the wheels as shown below

t-60 will reach max flow @ 14psi 8000rpm
t-61 will reach max flow @15psi 8000rpm
t-64 will reach max flow @17psi 8000rpm
t-70 will reach max flow @19psi 8000rpm


so that is aprox boost level required on each turbo to reach max flow at rev limits. after this point the boost will start to drop and so will torque. but the turbo will be making maximum torque and hp at that point.
I recomend you run much more boost than the figures above for each turbo to gain fatter mid torque, a car that feels fast on the street is a car that has high torque.

In my opinion its best to max a turbo out before you reach max rpm. This will give you a larger area under the torque curve.
take the t-60 as example......
This will have better boost responce over the other larger turbos.
it is capable of running much more than 14psi boost at the mid to high rpm to produce more peak torque and a stronger torque curve. so run the t-60 @ 19psi you will have more usable torque. and much better performance and still gd power in the higher rpm since it will still hold aprox 14psi at 8000.

The t-70 will make more hp at 19psi because it will be able to hold higher boost at the higher rpm. but would be laggier.
it would perform so much better at 24psi and will not feel stronger than the t-60 if 19psi was the limit set unless it was measured on the dyno then it would show more torque in the high rpm.

i would rcomend the t-60 or t61 as being the fastest spooling best street turbo for 12-16psi range and still have more mid torque left in it for those race days @ 20psi.
Oliver"

GUITARJUNKIE28

it's hard to get into the 400's whp reliably with high comp rotors.

as far as that's concerned, the larger the a/r, the better. but with a large a/r, you kill the low end and mid range, so why not play it conservative and go for maybe 330-350 whp with really fast spoolup?

if you want a hp monster, use 8.5 compression rotors.