Well, what do you guys think. Within the next month I am going to order my T-66 for my car. So far it seems that I am going to get a T-66 divided with a 1.00 A/R (for now).

I have had people tell me that BB turbos are bad, but never given a reason. My plans are mainly for open track events, so I like the idea of the faster spool up.

Any helpful suggestions welcome.


------------------

Jay
The Ricemobile
94 Base w/ never enough mods.
87 Base daily driver.

 

Jay-

I received the same response originally. Its all about preference I guess. The Ball Bearing option is nice for the extra little spooling time, but when it comes to rebuild (watch out!). It is quite expensive / and / or /easier to just replace with Brand New.

That was the reason that swayed me from BB. I KNOW I will have this car for a long time, and do not mind the little spooling time loss. I know I will go through one turbo.

Mike

 

YEH!
How about 5 millon $$$$$$$$$ to repair it when it goes!
Seriously they cost almost as much to replaced it than repair it when they blow and only Turbonectics can do it because it's their own design.As for reliability with ball bearings! Havn't had one out last one with a 360 deg trust as yet.Come to think of it I havn't had one last at all.Now I've heard the true dual ball bearing design from Garrett is the way to go but they're truly expensive though.
Just my opinion.

crispeed
87TII
9.74@139mph

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[This message has been edited by crispeed (edited March 02, 2001).]

 

What is considerd a long time? I was told that the Apex bb kit "should" last 100k?

 

i heard about the same from Chris at RP.
He saud the turbonetics BB have been nothing but a pain in the ***, he said he has yet to see one that lasts.
Keep in mind this is when they were putting a turbo on my car, he recommended against it.

 

Back to original post, can anybody give some concrete reason or comparison why ball
bearing is bad or goes bad as opposed to the non ball bearing option. This is interesting since turbonetics states in their catalog that the ball bearing can handle up to 50 times more thrust loading. So if a "concrete" light can be sheed to where the flaw of the ball bearing is, this would be great.

 

The reason that the Turbonetechs go bad so quickly is tha they are a cheap copy of the original Garrett ball bearing. Check what material the turbo is made out of. This will give you a good indicator of temperature loads it can withstand. Our engines run extra hot so the turbo must be made of at least High Inkle. Get a true Garrett ball bearing and it will last the length of the engine for sure. 1100C is the temperature that turbo is rated at. Ask Turbonetechs what their ball bearing is made of?

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Base FD in the middle of M2 Bionic rebuild.

 

I was told the Turbonetics system is based on a design that Garrett tried back in the 60's that they couldn't get to work and were having high failure rates.
Just about all the major turbo companies in the world have a ball bearing design that's pretty good now but just too damm expensive.

crispeed
87TII
9.74@139mph

------------------

 

any updates on the reliability of turbonetic's single BB design

 

If you do go to a BB put an inline oil filter to the turbo. The turbo will last a lot longer that way. The reason is particlates getting into the bearing housing causing accelerated wear.

 

I've read this tip before, but what type is recommended? sintered bronze or screen type are used for inline fuel filters, can these also be used for oil? Which would be the best, and would this act enough liek a restrictor to allow me to run a -4 feed line with a -10 drain?

 

I have had several cars with BB turbos. I have seen over 150000miles on some 323 GT-Rs with boost pressures twice the stock and still no probs. All turbos have been IHI turbos. The apexi uses IHI right?


In my street FD I use a custom made Twin turbo setup with two IHI BB turbos, one for each rotor. Im starting to get boost @ 1700rpm and full boost from 3700rpm until rev. limiter. Realy smoth ride and very driveble 500Hp+

Go BB! But dont buy the cheap ones. The Garret GTBB series would be my choice if I were to make a new turbo setup.

 

how intricate of a filter is required? I just got my BB T66 and the oil inlet restrictor piece has a built in screen to catch any debris. I don't imagine this is fine enough to do the job?

 

actually it looks liek this restrictor/filter is a factory Turbonetics piece now. From their website:

 

Sintered bronze would be better that screen type. Your main objective is to remove the small metal particulates. If possible adding a magnetic strip to the filter. I belive RX7store.com has them. Good luck.

 

would this work with oil though, it's sintered bronze, but it has -6 connectors

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=egnsearch.asp

 

my buddy was saying they raise your oil temps about 15-20 degrees F
thats in AZ though where its 100-118 in the warmer months

 

much much cheaper to replace a NON BB, i know im doing it now.

 

I have a GTK Turbonetics single bb on my 20B, no problem at all.
With my old setup (no bb) i had to rebuild turbo each 1 1/2 year. I don't thing GTK is a cheap copy of the original Garrett ball bearing, it's just different route.

 

I was told that rebuilding a ball bearing turbo will only cost $400.00 from my source --- does this seem about right? I had to send mine off because it began leaking oil after 23 miles of use so hopefully the Garrett distributor will replace mine for a new one.

 

Garrett BB is not full proof.
But in most cases its ok.

I wouldnt buy a turbonetics turbo period.

If you want a BB turbo, get T04Z or a gt42r. forget turbonetics.