Ceramic Apex seals: 2mm vs 3mm / 1pc vs 2 pc
06-15-17, 03:50 PM
#26
Exhaust Manifold Leak
To be honest, depnding on what you want use PTS, goopy or RxParts seals.
I have for the last 7 years used NRS ceramic seals in my 2 engines. 1 piece 3mm ceramic seals for my 13b-rew BP engine. And im a firm beliver as long as your run it "safe" and have a good engine and all components round it is good, it will last forever. I took the engine apart 2 years ago, and after 5k km they look brand new. Same with seals.
Now for the 2nd engine i got 2 piece 2mm seals for my 4 rotor. They have run for about 60 hours on dyno and track. No sign of any wear at all, rotor housings and seals look brand new. Now the engine has been sitting for 4 years. But hopefully will be in a new car next year, ready for some more racing
So to answer the question, there is no issues with ceramics as long as they don't break
But depending on your build, and the power you want. As long as you run pump fuel, use wather/meth along with the pump fuel you should be safe. And ofc no PFC and OEM ignition. Use some standalone ECU with new harness and the right coils and plugs.
But most engines will be fine with OEM seals, and the right build. They do handle decent amount of power. It's just that if the parts around the engine is crapy, every type of seal will fail.
JT
I have for the last 7 years used NRS ceramic seals in my 2 engines. 1 piece 3mm ceramic seals for my 13b-rew BP engine. And im a firm beliver as long as your run it "safe" and have a good engine and all components round it is good, it will last forever. I took the engine apart 2 years ago, and after 5k km they look brand new. Same with seals.
Now for the 2nd engine i got 2 piece 2mm seals for my 4 rotor. They have run for about 60 hours on dyno and track. No sign of any wear at all, rotor housings and seals look brand new. Now the engine has been sitting for 4 years. But hopefully will be in a new car next year, ready for some more racing
So to answer the question, there is no issues with ceramics as long as they don't break
But depending on your build, and the power you want. As long as you run pump fuel, use wather/meth along with the pump fuel you should be safe. And ofc no PFC and OEM ignition. Use some standalone ECU with new harness and the right coils and plugs.But most engines will be fine with OEM seals, and the right build. They do handle decent amount of power. It's just that if the parts around the engine is crapy, every type of seal will fail.
JT
if there any particulas reason why a PFC would could this, if the timing and fuel maps are populated safely, and fuelpressure secure.
06-17-17, 08:36 AM
#27
Hi all,
Would really wanna get some insight from those who've used the Iannetti ceramic seals on what's best for a street & track 13B.
I've read pretty much all the threads on ceramics but haven't seen any conclusive remarks on what's best.
From the forums in general, I've learnt that 2 piece seals are supposed to seal better than 1 piece but tends to be more fragile at the pointy end compared to the 1 piece. Also, the 3mm is more robust. but doesn't seal as well as 2mm and milling of the rotor to fit the 3mm seals is a work of art which even a hairline difference can result in the need for a new motor and seals.
I'd like to build a street port engine to use with a T04S or EFR8374 single turbo at boosts around 15-17psi. Mainly for street use, but have the occasional track days and mountain runs. So engine longevity and low end response are critical factors I'd like for the new build.
Appreciate some expert opinion on this. Thanks~!
Would really wanna get some insight from those who've used the Iannetti ceramic seals on what's best for a street & track 13B.
I've read pretty much all the threads on ceramics but haven't seen any conclusive remarks on what's best.
From the forums in general, I've learnt that 2 piece seals are supposed to seal better than 1 piece but tends to be more fragile at the pointy end compared to the 1 piece. Also, the 3mm is more robust. but doesn't seal as well as 2mm and milling of the rotor to fit the 3mm seals is a work of art which even a hairline difference can result in the need for a new motor and seals.
I'd like to build a street port engine to use with a T04S or EFR8374 single turbo at boosts around 15-17psi. Mainly for street use, but have the occasional track days and mountain runs. So engine longevity and low end response are critical factors I'd like for the new build.
Appreciate some expert opinion on this. Thanks~!
Please follow up. Thanks.
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