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Hi all,
I am very new to this forum stuff, but I just wanted to say that I have the BW SX300SX-E by Howard's recommendation, and so far I'm very happy with it. I just got the car all back together and I'm working out the bugs ( just took off my twins ), but even at wastegate pressure (12 psi)... without a boost controller, it still is pretty responsive and my car feels much stronger so far. If you're debating on a good turbo to use with a quicker spool, the new BW line is as Howard advertises. running purely off the WG spring which makes it spool much slower, it's still full spooled by 4800. Working on my boost control set up now... I fully believe it can make full boost by 4-4200 easy. It's going to be a monster soon...
Last edited by ThatWillGuy30; 02-14-16 at 03:23 AM.
"Hi all,
I am very new to this forum stuff, but I just wanted to say that I have the BW SX300SX-E by Howard's recommendation, and so far I'm very happy with it. I just got the car all back together and I'm working out the bugs ( just took off my twins ), but even at wastegate pressure (12 psi)... without a boost controller, it still is pretty responsive and my car feels much stronger so far. If you're debating on a good turbo to use with a quicker spool, the new BW line is as Howard advertises. running purely off the WG spring which makes it spool much slower, it's still full spooled by 4800. Working on my boost control set up now... I fully believe it can make full boost by 4-4200 easy. It's going to be a monster soon..."
given your experience to date i am quite certain you have some issues that are slowing boost.
there's lots of people in this section that can be of help to you so i suggest you list your mods and let's get your car running properly.
i would also like to see your turbo manifold and a few pics of your engine bay.
given your experience to date i am quite certain you have some issues that are slowing boost.
there's lots of people in this section that can be of help to you so i suggest you list your mods and let's get your car running properly.
i would also like to see your turbo manifold and a few pics of your engine bay.
HC
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Ok first, am I jacking the thread? I assume that's not a good thing? But forgive my noob-ness... The mods:
Power FC ( my own tuning )
Omni 3 bar
LS coils,
RFL Blow off valve
HKS "style" wastegate
HKS-ish manifold I made (first version)
Borg Warner SX300SX-E(62) w/1.0 hotside
Custom 3 inch exhaust (no cat, muffler only)
V-mount intercooler w/Koyo S wave Radiator
Rebuilt motor out of someone elses' car (supposedly with a Street Port, though I'm not so sure)
Air pump delete
Pre mix only
So I think that about covers the hard parts of the engine bay... Now before people start hating on me, I've done everything myself. I started with absolutely NO ROTARY knowledge, a seized motor in a car that was being used as a storage shed (literally), and used only my own mechanical knowledge, and lately a lot of guidance on turbo stuff from Howard, and a SUPER tight budget. I've done research and testing different stuff to get me this far...
My car was VERY dialed in on the stock twin setup I did... NOW I have a big single and my car is a MESS... I'm really not even that concerned about the boost issue at this point. I honestly think I know what I did wrong there, ( as of last night ) but right now it only making 12 psi is acceptable.
My main concern right now is the fact that my engine is sweating oil like a fat kid on a diet in a cupcake factory.... From EVERYWHERE... the oil pan, the turbo drain, the oil filler neck.. just about anywhere oil is... so my question is:
Is it possible to have too much crank case pressure? That's what it seems to act like. When I'm on the throttle, no smoke, as soon as I let off (even under no boost ) smoke starts billowing from around the turbo area because oil is getting on hot parts. Plus like I said, oil is coming out of EVERYWHERE. There is one other thing I feel is very important to note also. My oil pressure is always different, but usually VERY high. Like 60+ on the gauge. I'm using a -6 feed line and a -10 drain.
Thank you for any help you can provide in pointing me in the right direction... I will post a picture of my set up as soon as I'm done putting them on my computer...
Last edited by ThatWillGuy30; 02-14-16 at 03:01 PM.
Stock fuel injectors for now, which is why I'm not worried about my boost so much. It's stable at 12 psi. I should be on track to get some ID 1600's and an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator by the beginning of next month. I do have an Aeromotive Stealth pump wired direct for full power. Using my stock twins map, which was running 14 psi at 11.2 AFR's and 90% Duty Cycle, AFR's are still below 11.6 at 12 psi now at around 70% duty. So I'm ok with that for now I think. Plus it actually leaned out my under boost map almost perfectly. Runs great.
I will switch to -4 immediately. I really hope that didn't hurt my turbo. It doesn't seem to be coming past the seals that I can tell. I'm about to remove the turbo and work on the drain possibly leaking, so I will look for oiling signs.
My oil pressure sometimes is around 35, sometimes it idles at 120... it's all over the place. Does that mean you can't create too much "crankcase" pressure? I did also forget that I put a Banzai Racing pan brace on. But I've never had pan leaks before and I torqued everything to spec. Now everything is covered in oil. As if it were pressurizing the pan and enough to come out the fill cap, which is impressive. The odd extra hose with a filter you see in the picture is a test to see if relieving some of that pressure would help. It seem to calm it some... Does anyone change their venting system? Like a huge catch can or something?
The blanket is in the works. Just piecing it all together. Slowly as money fluctuates. I am also going to wrap all the manifold and header. I have it, just didn't get the ties... waiting to sort that out. I will also get some of the Mica? panels you use Howard. Again, this is just the original version. I am already finding things I want to change, but I want to get rid of the issues first.
pls do not confuse 12 psi with the stock twins w 12 psi from your S300 SXE.
the SXE can make 467 hp at 12 psi which is easily 100 more than the twins as well as about 100 more than your present fuel delivery.
while i realise that most projects need to be executed in stages due to cash and time certain things just need to always go together before the next step..
for instance fuel and airflow need to match.
S300 SXE 62. max airflow is 77.5 pounds
fuel needs to match at 10.0 AFR so
77.5/10 = 7.75 pounds of fuel per minute
7.75/6.35 = 1.22 gallons (gasoline) per minute
1.22 GPM = 4618 CC per minute.. that is NET into the engine.
adjusting to Gross
you want to run no more than 85% duty cycle and you lose deliverability due to lag (13%)
4618 X 1.35 = 6236 CC Gross Injector Requirements for the S300 SXE 62.
if after changing your turbo oil service line you still have lots of blowby most likely it is something to do w your oil seal rings on your rotors.
oil pressure at idle is very temperature dependent. if it is cold the pressure s/b around 100, hot it can be easily half that.
i suggest you check out post one of my "Oilpan Tech" thread in the 3rd Gen Section
Upon disassembly of my turbo there is no signs of oiling. All the oil was on the outside of the turbo. So I'm redoing my drain setup since it's definitely coming from that. I washed the engine bay also so I can see if it's leaking again and where. I also wanted to show you this... I think it's a great idea... but I could be wrong. I had my housing flange modified. Now it has (IMO) the best and most common V-band with out welding. Plus we turned the inside so there is a smooth surface and removed the step that was in it. So flow will be less turbulent out... even if it's just a fraction of a percent. Biggest thing to me is the V-band works amazing.
Also thanks for the link. I feel like I did a good job with the pan. I took my time and I did clean all the wholes and used all new hardware since it now uses studs. I even used Honda Bond... I ALWAYS use Honda Bond... Great stuff. I don't know what's going on with that. But, maybe the oil was from somewhere else... So, now that I have it clean, I'll start fresh. As long as the turbo drain is eliminated I will move to the next thing leaking and find that. LoL. Ah, the price of learning. I am getting VERY good at removing my engine at least. LoL.
I also want to say thanks. I know you're right about the fuel and certain things being important. I guess I had a lapse in judgement thinking as long as my AFR's are good and my knock counts aren't different I should be good. I will keep it to garage use only until I get the necessary fuel parts. Thanks again.
Last edited by ThatWillGuy30; 02-14-16 at 08:12 PM.
So today I worked on all the leaks. I changed my drain setup. I milled the flanges that go to the turbo so there was more clearance and I changed the routing a little. I also put a reducer from -6 to -4 in so it will take out some of the pressure. I also found a pinched O-ring on the oil fill was leaking badly so I replaced it so that's gone. I then reconnected the pvc back to stock, and vented the other nipple on the oil filler. It seems all my leaks are gone. Though I haven't drove it, just idle and revved in the garage. I still have a bit of concern about whether the oil pan is leaking but I'll keep on that.
Howard, I re read our last posts because the conversation ended so abruptly, mainly mine. I feel like my last post may have came out wrong and maybe taken the wrong way. For that I am very sorry. I never meant any disrespect, or ill tone. I very much appreciate anyone with knowledge that's willing to share. I love learning. Thanks again for all your help. Next step is fuel. You are absolutely right about that.
02-14-16, 03:20 AM
nice job overall, let's get it over the goal line.
