Trav

^^^that looks pretty slick. Wondering how you would make your own custom tube tho....

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

Wow, that is pretty hot. I'll have to try that thanks! I wonder how well it would work for IC pipe? Surely they would be less prone to heat soak, not to mention the extra bling, bling under the hood.

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

I was told by the guy that made that, that it was made with a silicone bladder, though it would be real easy to just use the carbon tube and wet it up and then use shrink wrap to hold it over a standard tube while it cures. Then cut the shrink off, sand lightly, and gelcoat or epoxy over for a nice clear smooth finish.

Trav

What would you use for the standard (inner) tube? How would you get it out?

I was thinking more along the lines of a foam core..easy to work with, can cut/mold in pretty much any fashion you want. Then when the carbon tube is cured, pour acetone down the tube, foam is gone, and viola. (easier said that done, I know, but you get the idea).

LT1-7

http://www.burnsstainless.com/Hardwa...vicecosts.html

back purging is always better, though using flux is simple and probably cheaper

80-CU.IN.T

LT1-7 I have been buying from Burn’s for quite a while since I live is S. Kalifornia and I have never even looked at their teck articles or hard wear. Very funny, good info. I will locate the manufacturer of solar flux and give it a try. If it works it would definitely make life easier.
Hey Turbo 1 - I guess I should check my spelling next time sorry about that. Turbo1– tubo1 Oh well it’s only a letter

the7

hey guys,

got my car dynoed this week 293kw @ wheels
The figure is actually more than i was shooting for. we had a 7psi spring in the w/gate, and were going to bleed it off to 10 -12 psi. the plumbing for my wastegate is undersized and wasnt able to flow enough gas to better control the boost pressure. AN SO THE BOOST GRADUALLY CREPT TO 16PSI (without bleeding the w/gate).backed off below 7000rpm, because the engine isnt equipt to deal with that boost or grunt. (no dowels or 3mm seals)

the wastegate plumbing on my manifold is 1"I.D.
can i please get some advice on tube size and design

pistonsuk

go to pg11 of www.mcmaster.com website

i used part#45735K216

they weld up great

justin

the7

thanks dude, but getting the material isnt the problem. i think ill by local i live in australia
its more constucting the wastegate plumbing to flow large volumes of gas, so i can control my boost pressure

any threads i couldnt find in the search

2a+RoN

this thread has a lot of good info in it: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...tegate+runners

Carl Byck

If you keep the angle of incidence, and the diameter of the tubing equal to that of the main runners you will have no problems controlling boost as it relates to the manifold. Carl

the7

can elaborate on this for me!

are you trying to tell me to plumb the W/G runner as close to parrallel as practical with the main runner?


that link is exteremly helpful and i think i know what tact im am going to take to fix it. dont think i will plumb the valve into the tubine housing unless it is absolutely necessary tho!!!

pistonsuk

yes this is the angle in which the wg runners branch from the main runners. minimize this.

my first manifold had 1in runners "T"d in and worked fine until i upgraded my 2.5inch catback to 3inch. then it creeped above 5K. when i reduced my angle of incidence to an angle nearly equal to the angle heading torwards the turbo itself this probelm was solved.

in summary, (on a rotary) make your wg runners nearly equally accessable to flow as the turbo.

justin

the7

Ahh though so thanks mate!!
i'll do that.
im running a big exhaust as well 3 1/2". if i still have troubles i think that i will drop it back to 3" and go a lower a/r housing .

4CN Air

iTrader: (7)

a larger a/r would actually help control boost correct? A larger turbine housing uses more of the exhaust and therefore needs to vent less through w/g(s)