I recently purchased a BW 8374 EFR from Elliot at turbo source. Super nice person. However I didn't purchase the manifold. I decided to try my hand at it. I have all the necessary machines/equipment to make this thing so I had no excuse not to try it. I started by hanging the turbo from threaded rod and positioning it. I used 1/2" stainless for the flanges and 1-1/2" schedule 10 elbows in 304 stainless. I bought the divided T4 flange but had to make the engine flange. Once I had the turbo hanging and both flanges in place I welded 2 pieces of flat stock between the flanges so as to maintain their position in relation to each other. Once that was done the rest was fitting and welding the pipe in between. I would like to Thank Elliot for the work he invested in the design of this style of manifold. Mine is just a close copy of his based on any pics I could find.

 

Looks good, how much war page did you end up with on the flanges?

 

I had to face .033 off the engine flange and .070 off the T4 flange to make them flat again.

 

Nice manifold

 

Is this going to be running an internal wastegate with 1.5 inch runners?

 

Yes the runners are 1.5" pipe schedule 10 which has a 1.682" ID. And yes to the IWG.

 

How much boost are you planning to run?

 

I would like to make 450 rwhp on a conservative dyno. I hope I don't have to push past low to mid 20's to get there.

 

One of our dealers made 400rwhp at 10 psi on our iwg 8374 kit( raceport engine however ).

 

why only 1.5" runners? are ports are closer to 2" in diameter. Or does it taper down to 1.5? if so, why?

 

Lets hope you don't run into boost control issues using the 1.5 runners.

 

Nominal pipe dimensions are different than tubing.
SCH10 1.5" PIPE is actually 1.9" OD and 1.7" ID.
2.0" 11 gauge TUBING is 2" OD and .120" wall thickness ~1.76" ID.
Not a huge difference.

 

We have been using 1.5 schedule 10 pipe in our IWG kits for quite some time now. Every owner has report 10 to 13psi base( and lowest) boost pressure on the dyno and street. 1.5" pipe I.D is the EXACT size of a T4 divided flange.

 

You should move to Australia. Hard to find quality fabricators down here(who actually want to work).

 

Wat? He wanted to try to build his own manifold. Mission accomplished.

 

I believe rx72c is complimenting Ernstudet22's fabrication skills~ and suggested that he should move to Australia to start a business.

Nice work btw!

 

Haha, I reread the response, my apologies rx72c!

 

Thought I would jump into this thread as I did the same thing.
I used Schedule 40 1.5" 304SS piping.

I didn't get the piping to match up to the t4 flange as closely as I would have liked so I laid a lot of weld around the flanges so that I could make a very smooth internal flow path. the downside is that it looks a lot worse and it warped the flanges quite a bit. but after having it machined flat the warpage is fixed. the manifold will be more or less invisible on the car anyways.
This is also my first time tg welding stainless as I only picked up the welder 4 months ago and I've spent all my time with aluminum. I'm confident in the strength but the welds are by no means pretty lol.


Made a jig after I decided how the turbo should fit.





The problem with buying a engine flange is that they are meant for larger piping.