I recently got my 93FD running 15 psi @ 368 rwhp after a 2 year long single turbo upgrade (Budget Issues)...

After driving for about 2 weeks the engine blew. It was professionally tuned and now after that 2 weeks of fun I want more power because honestly it wasnt that much faster than my stock twins.

I am tired of nickel and dimming my baby and want to get the best for her... for once. I recently moved to Maryland and wanted to know the best shop to have a rebuild and aggressive streetport performed. Does not have to be local.

I am currently looking at:

Atkins Rotary
PFS Supercars
Rotorsport

Please comment on any shops you would recommend.

Thanks

 

djseven on the forums is the ****** man. i bought my car from him and he has a business rebuilding motors. cool dude very knowledgeable. his site is rotaryrebuildstore.com

 

Well, your in Md, and I would say call PFS.

 

Kind of far away, but Defined Autoworks is where it's at. Defined did my FD, it was perfect. My current car is a product of Defined, and makes 523 on a 2 rotor with 35r. The point is they know what they are doing.

 

Cost is also important, if there are two shops which can both do a good job on Jon's engine and one is more expensive, why pay more.

 

The Plan.

The last time I told my tuner I wanted to make over 400 rwhp I ended up making 368.

So I am thinking if I tell my tuner I want 550-600. I should be where I want to be..which is about really 500.

Even though I have had my FD for 5 years I have only put 4,000 Miles on it. So when i am doing the rebuild I am wondering what supporting mods I am going to need to get upto 500+

What I have so Far
-Microtech LT8
-Greddy FMIC
-Precision Turbo GT-37 -> Need bigger? Suggestions?
-Bosch 044 Fuel Pump
-Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
-RC Engineering 850 | 1200 Injectors
-HKS Manifold, BOV, Exhaust
- Greddy Intake Elbow
-Jacobs 1000 Ignition
-ACT Stage 2 Clutch
-Aluminum AST
-Air Pump REmoved
-Fluidyne Radiator
-Tial Wastegate
-Tien Coilovers



To Do List (Please add to what I'll need for Reliability and Power)

-Upgrade Stock Coils
-Kazaa LSD ??? do I need
-Oil Cooler
-Bushing Overhaul
-Larger Turbo
-Water-Meth CoolMist ??? do I need
-Transmission Cooler? do I need
-What am I missing..
Suggestions for Apex Seals 3mm or 2mm/ Cermanic?

Will a Aggresive Streetport get me upto 550 Horsepower or am I looking at Half Bridge? I want this still to be very Streetable so any ideas are would be great.

 

Every one will tell you their builder is the best builder, I would suggest you have the same person who tunes your car build your car. Unless the two shops have worked together before.


~S~

 

I agree. Go with whomever is going to tune the car. If possible I would go with someone local to you because if there is an issue with the engine you wont have to pay shipping.

 

Since you live in MD calling PFS or KD Rotary in Pa would be your best bet.

 

let's assume you want 500 SAE rear wheel hp...

500 * 1.92 = 960 CFM = 67 pounds per minute of air.

the Garrett compressor map shows 68 pounds max at 2.3 pressure ratios or 19.1 psi. since the compressor trim is 52 it should spool well. hotside is 79.5% of cold side so that is pretty good. so the GT3788r will just get it done.

as to fuel:

here i am going to make some assumptions of what i want minimum. feel free to differ a bit if you wish.

my assumptions

i want enough base fuel (that's gasoline.... no methanol AI) to run 10 to 1 AFR at 85% max duty.

that doesn't mean i want to run 10 to 1, it just means i want some backstop. that's just me.

so:

68 pounds of air at 10 to 1 is 6.8 pounds of gasoline per minute. gas weighs 6.35 pounds per gallon so doing the conversion... 6.8/6.35 = 1.07 gpm.... or 4050 CC to do 10 to 1.

but we need to run the injectors at no more than 85% duty...

4050* (1/.85) = 4764 CC/Min

so you need a set of 1600s.

as to fuel for 500. buy a 20 amp Kenne Bell Boost A Pump, and run your 044. i have had mine for 7 years and has run my 850/1600s to 90% duty at 20%+ in voltage w no problem. only works under boost.

500 is 575 flywheel hp or 3.6 hp per cubic inch which is huge combustion chamber pressure. no way without either racegas or pump and methanol AI or perhaps water.. water requires more ignition but methanol at 500 rw also will require more ignition. at 500 you can't have enough ignition or cooling. IMO you need coils and an amp(s). plugs need to be 10 heat range or colder. Coolingmist, BTW, makes a nice AI unit... you might check w Jason.

transmission won't need a cooler but depending on what you do w the 500 it might need a 3rd gear or mainshaft every now and then. i run an S4 T2 clutch type LSD which is an option.

bushings... you need solid diff bushings and should have a better front bushing on the lower longitudinal links in the rear.

if you keep your apex seals cool a number of brands will work just fine. i ran ceramics last year and am running steel this year... not much diff.

you need to be able to log knock... can you do this w the microtech?

good luck!

howard

 

I don't know howard, I look at the 3788R and kinda say why? Part of me likes the idea but I think in the end you gain nothing over the 4088R. They both run the same compressor yet one runs the smaller turbine. While part of you says that should help with spool some, the other part of you says smaller wheel pushing a larger compressor will not. My educated guess is a 3788R will perform the same response but less overall peak power. Truth be told I'm not much of a fan of either turbo, but that's just me.


~S~

 

"3788R and kinda say why"

i agree and wasn't necessarily recommending it rather since he owns it was just giving him an appraisal re the 500 thing.

 

Go with the closest reputable shop. That way you can keep an eye on things and if you have any problems you don't have to deal with somebody so far away.

 

Ahhh, I wasn't thinking of that. My thought was it wasn't a 3788R but you're probably right.


~S~

 

Use PFS.RAY does great work.

 

Word of advice, whoever you choose, ask how long it will take them to work on your car...

 

Thanks for all the responses. I think I am going to shot for 550-600 rwhp. My Budget for the engine rebuild is about 6,500. I assuming my Rotor Housing, amongst other things are no longer serviceable.

For 6500 I am hoping to:
-Aggressive Streetport
-Balanced & cleared
-2mm RA Seals or OEM??
-Cryo???? Is it needed
-Anything Else for 550-600rwhp
-Removal and Installation

I am also planning on going with a better and bigger all around turbo. I am going to be making an appointment at PFS supercars and figure out exactly what needs to be done. Once again thanks for all the advice.

 

Ray at PFS.

My 2 cents,
crispy

 

Ray @ PFS. My car is there right now getting few things fixed. I've never dealt with anyone else but from my experience with PFS, I don't think I will ever need to look for another shop.

 

Thanks for all the information. Another issue ontop of my blown my engine was a major electrical problem. I brought my car into a shop in Florida to have a parasidic gain issue resolved. My battery would never last more than 8 hours. I also had a larger fuel rail and injectors installed. After driving my car 5 miles My Microtech, Headlights, gauge cluster, radio, and a few other things all blew out. I had my microtech sent back to austrialia. So I need a shop that will be able to undo the shody work that has my car go through.

 

Ray Wilson...period...

 

Microtechs suck. Pony up and buy a haltech. People like microtechs because they are cheaper and all the racers south of the border use them.

 

How is your car work going?

I have an extra Haltech E6K-8 with a brand new unterminated harness that I might let go for cheap if you are interested.

 

I took everyones advice and finally decided to drop it of at PFS for a rebuild/streetport.

Cant wait...

 

you won't regret it