Just want to get everyone opinion on their favorite seals for a 12a that will be turboed.. Also any reasoning explaining why.. I'm sure there are other posts on this but i wanted to post a new thread in case there are any new to the market just recently.

I blew my 12a motor.. front apex seal. it was mostly stock and i guess thats what i get..... I made a dumb mistake with my distributor and timing.... i mean dumb....

Also are stock side seals etc fine for any app? It will be street ported and i want to be able to handle at least 15 psi and 8000 rpm redline. it will still be carbed and distributor ran ignition...

Thanks!!!

 

anyone?

 

Call Goopy. They have some for you. 845-947-0007

 

Depends on many factors, most important of all others who's doing the tune and on what fuel. Stock seals are fine for what your doing if your tune is good. Soft bendable seals are not good for rebuilds looking for lots of miles as they tend to wear the housings. They are great for people drag racing and expecting to push the limits. Ceramics are good for longevity and low wear however they will be expensive and they will cause a lot of damage 9/10 times. Pick your poison.



~S~

 

i have had good luck with rotary aviation seals on all the rebuild i do for people but ZeroR is right you really gotta pick your Own poison

 

Stock Mazda 12AT apex seals (standard ones are 3mm)
Mazda 12A apex seal springs

12A/13B side seals (1mm)
Mazda 12A/13B side seal springs

Use rubber plug type corner seals (not straight cut solids)
Use FD3S corner seal springs (even tho RX-8 ones are cheaper and look much the same)

Porting, get exhaust done to TII timing if using Non turbo 12A housings

Intake porting, start at stock TII height (slight extend)
If using 12A N or Y plates, should be good for intake port width already.

Stock 89-91 TII turbos work real well. Especially when highflowed

12psi @ 7800rpm with 10BTDC timing and 9.4:1 rotors feels real strong.

 

thanks for the info think i might go beyond my original goals and shoot for 20 psi i was at 7-8 with a streetport and turblown stage V gt35r, custom manifold, and custom downpipe. needed more tuning think i was running a bit lean 12s for afs at full boost. blew a seal... it went like a F er tho.

 

i use Super Seals no problem so far

 

The real test would be starting with rotors with a known clearance value, and rechecking again with a new seal after driving 40 000kms.

I think you will find RA seals are hard as fark on apex seal slots and housing chrome.

For comparisons sake, engines with 240 000kms and mazda seals worn to nearly throw away height still come in spec on apex seal clearance.

I'm having no problems with standard seals, and I plan on running closer to 20psi in near future.

 

Standar seals are good nothing against them but a bad detonation and bye bye to rotor housings and some times turbo. RA seals dont break as easy when they are going bad instead of breaking like standar seals they would warp and loose compretion letting you know is time to replace them.

 

So RA put a 12micron crown on their apex seals?
So RA only harden the leading edge of the apex seal with an electron beam and have a soft material to go easy on apex seal slots?

There really should be no talk of any aftermarket apex seal UNTIL its a run once drag motor.

 

RA seals al the way!