Roy Johnson Jr

I need to buy some new brakes. What is a good brand out there now and where is the best place to buy them? I want good stopping power and don't mind if they are more dusty than other brakes.

1RedR1and1RedPEP

In the very near future i will be posting a picture of what i hope are the best brakes for a 3rd gen.
The wizards over at M2 are fabing up a kit just for me.
Wait till you all see this one!!!!!!

1RedR1and1RedPEP

Roy,
with the power you are putting out you may need this kind of stoping power
1R1

Roy Johnson Jr

How long before they are selling them?

1RedR1and1RedPEP

Roy,
it is sort of a one-off, not sure if they will be selling this. It is a killer brake set up and not for the meek.
1R1

Carl Byck

For the street I love the EBC greens. I use them on my MKIV Supra, and on my TO4S FC when autocrossing. I use Carbotech Panther XPs on the front of the FC, and EBC Reds on the back of the FC for road racing. I love the EBCs for the street. No dust, no noise, good bite cold, awesome bite hot, NO FADE EVER. The only problem with the EBCs,red or green is that they will not last for aggressive track time. Carl

spoolin

i use the kvr carbon fibre pads. get them for the low low from best price in canada. also where i get all my cross drilled rotors for my previous 10th AE and all my current cars: '94, GSL, GSL-SE, GS w/ 13B bridge

Ryde _Or_Die

On ebay right now there are rotors for both FDs and FCs. Not sure about FBs. Its all 4 rotors, cross drilled and slotted for I think like $230.

Silver7

I use the hawk HP+ for the street and blues for the track. I have used both the EBC reds and yellows and to be honest, they don't even compare to the Hawks. The Hawks have more bite and require less heat to start to work. They also last a lot longer than the EBC's.

Carl Byck

Two major downsides to the Hawks on the street, and track are huge amounts of corrosive dust, and destruction of the brake rotors. On the track I would not use EBCs upfront, the Reds won't last(around 1.5 hours), however they also will not fade period... As for the Yellows they are made for cars with a MINIMUM weight of 3200lbs. It's not suprising that they did not perform as there is no way you could put the design heat into them with an RX7. I still feel for the street you cannot beat the Greens, no fade no dust. I have Greens on my MKIV supra and they just wont fade on the street, even with repeated 130-40 braking. For the track the Panther XPs have nearly the bite of the Hawk Blues, and the rotors last four times as long. As always these are opinions... Regards, Carl

maxcooper

SleepR1 has been raving about the Mazda RS/RZ big brakes, and they are a very good deal for a four wheel setup ($1600-ish). He says the OEM pads are great, too -- they work on the street and track and are cheaper than most track pads.

The next rung up on the price ladder are the Wilwood Superlight 6-piston kits ($1500-2000-ish). These look non-OEM and offer a nice price/performance ratio. You can also do the Wilwood NDL rear upgrade to complete a four-wheel set ($800-ish).

I've got the N-Tech AP 13" 4-pot kit ($2700+600 for SS pistons) in front and the Wilwood NDL rears ($800-ish). Great weight savings and performance, but they cost a lot more. You can also get Brembos or M2's four wheel setup in this price range.

Note that you lose the parking brake with the NDL or M2 rear upgrades, but the RS/RZ allows you to keep the parking brake. I think M2 offers a parking brake option at additional cost, and there might be a parking brake solution for the NDL rears in the future.

After killing a lot of stock rotors and suffering inconsistent performance on the track, I eventually gave up and went for bigger brakes. Using aftermarket calipers (Wilwood, AP, Brembo) is nice because you get more pad choices, the pads are bigger (last longer) and are cheaper than the same pads for the Mazda calipers. But the RS/RZ upgrade has to be the value leader if you just want capable brakes and don't care if they look like upgrades.

-Max

qwck10th

I think Roy is running mostly street with a little strip thrown in, and no track events.
As long as you can lock the tires, you have enough stopping power.
If you're not running track events (20+minute at a time) your rotors are probably big enough to dissapate the heat, so no need for big rotor$/caliper$/etc...
That leaves us with the stock system. Recommend:
New master cylinder - its cheap, and very important.
s/s lines - again cheap, will help "feel".
Fresh fluid (Ford HD, or Motul, or your favorite - no silicone.
Your favorite pads: I'm a Hawke man myself. I use OEM Mazda for the street, and Hawke Blacks at the track (switching to Blues on the front soon).

About a year ago, Grassroots Motorsports did a fantastic article on brake tech, there was also an excellent white paper referenced in the RP forum about a week ago.

Steve C.

Marcel Burkett

Is there any one who supplies oversized front rotors that utalize the stock calipers with the appropriate adapter of course , for the FD ?. I think this setup with high performance pads , ss lines and maybe a master cylinder would be a great and cost effective upgrade.

Marcel Burkett

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Marcel Burkett

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maxcooper

The Mazda RS/RZ front rotors are 1.25x12.2" (versus 0.8x11.5" or so for US-spec stock rotors). The calipers are similar to the US-spec ones, except they fit the larger rotors and have differental bores. The whole front setup (incl. caliper pins and pads) is about $800 from Mazdaspeed Motorsports Development. Even for fast street cars, bigger brakes make a nice upgrade.

-Max

ZoomZoom

iTrader: (2)

I am planning to upgrade my brakes in the near future. I am going to go all out and buy the 13 inch Brembo 6 piston caliper 13 inch front kit with the 99 spec rear kit. It will be enough brake to put you through the windshield.