Single Turbo RX-7's Questions about all aspects of single turbo setups.

Autox FD Dyno

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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 07:45 AM
  #26  
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You will carry peak power into higher rpm if you get the wastegates to open, that is why all the new "small turbo" cars (audi, vw even evo & sti) trail boost off in the top end, so they don't get the unnecessary exhaust pumping losses once they are close to the flow limit of the compressor. You don't need the energy of all that exhaust flow to power the compressor at higher rpm. Just because it "holds boost" doesn't mean it is flowing much more at all on the intake side, just pumping more exhaust gas in circles and wasting energy pushing it out of the engine.

Trail the boost target off with rpm from the point power starts to flatline and see what it does if you get it back to have a look at.
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 09:19 PM
  #27  
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just curious if you have the dyno sheet for the 12 psi runs?

Thanks,
James
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 10:54 AM
  #28  
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From: hsv al
Plus 1 for some low boost numbers!
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 12:28 PM
  #29  
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From: hsv al
http://www.youtube.com/user/TweakitR.../2/VJ8h0OlkEDw

found a vid of the car. you can really see how this torque plays a serious role in an autox
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 08:43 PM
  #30  
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From: Floyds Knobs. IN
Originally Posted by Gilgamesh
http://www.youtube.com/user/TweakitR.../2/VJ8h0OlkEDw

found a vid of the car. you can really see how this torque plays a serious role in an autox


That's Dan Chadwick's car. Same idea. Interesting video. Looks like there is a lot of understeer going on.
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 09:56 PM
  #31  
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ive noticed we do not talk much about manifold piping diameter on these forums either. I would like to see the manifold. a divided T3 flange port is about 1200mm area, or roughly 1.5" diameter. if your t3 manifold piping is larger than 1.5" or 1.75" for T4, you are losing out on spool
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 10:25 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Gilgamesh
http://www.youtube.com/user/TweakitR.../2/VJ8h0OlkEDw

found a vid of the car. you can really see how this torque plays a serious role in an autox
Heh, I ran this event.. but I was running my Miata for it.
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 02:16 PM
  #33  
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I will have to watch this thread.
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 03:45 PM
  #34  
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The thing that struck me as incredible about this setup was how the torque is damned near equal to the HP, on a rotary that's pretty much unheard of..

Chad, you said that you only saw a gain of 10-12hp in going from 16psi to 19psi. What, more importantly, was the torque gain that you saw between those two boost levels?

I bet if he were to run pre-turbo Water Injection (if he's not already) he'd see even better results!
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 07:33 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by fendamonky
The thing that struck me as incredible about this setup was how the torque is damned near equal to the HP, on a rotary that's pretty much unheard of..

Chad, you said that you only saw a gain of 10-12hp in going from 16psi to 19psi. What, more importantly, was the torque gain that you saw between those two boost levels?

I bet if he were to run pre-turbo Water Injection (if he's not already) he'd see even better results!
If I had to guess it was around 15-20 ftlbs, we had a couple of dyno issues up to the last tuning day so C. Ludwig and I were pretty cashed in at the end of the day and did not copy over any other dyno sheets. Oh, and I do not have any water injection. I decided just to run 110 and forget about it.

I have a build thread on another rotary forum ( don't know if I can post the link to another forum..) so you guys can see all the details if needed. I think I might have told Chris incorrectly on the turbo because I forget things like that.

Turbo: Custom Precision Turbo HP5530SP with .78 AR T3 exhaust housing twin scroll, the exhaust wheel is a 60mm/84trim.

I know using a small turbo is unorthodox and not common but it worked for my purpose and worked it did. I basically slapped a single on an un-opened re-manufactured engine with big injectors and a Haltech. Also I had the stock fly wheel too. I raced the car for two seasons with out a any engine problems or turbo issues. All this was due to the un-matched tuning skills by the master himself C. Ludwig.

Also the stock reman engine is out and getting replaced. I wanted 350 ftlbs and I got it. Now I want more! any help and or advise will be greatly appreciated.

CT
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Old Feb 5, 2012 | 09:23 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by fendamonky
The thing that struck me as incredible about this setup was how the torque is damned near equal to the HP, on a rotary that's pretty much unheard of..
The S4 T2 made as much horsepower as torque (within 1). The s3 GSL-SE 13B 6 port non turbo made as much horsepower as torque (within 2). It's all in the way you set it up. For practical purposes that means giving up top end horsepower to an extent. Stock ports for example make it easier. The stock ports are designed for usable torque.
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 10:15 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by arghx
the s4 t2 made as much horsepower as torque (within 1). The s3 gsl-se 13b 6 port non turbo made as much horsepower as torque (within 2). It's all in the way you set it up. For practical purposes that means giving up top end horsepower to an extent. Stock ports for example make it easier. The stock ports are designed for usable torque.
+1
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 11:17 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by arghx
The S4 T2 made as much horsepower as torque (within 1). The s3 GSL-SE 13B 6 port non turbo made as much horsepower as torque (within 2).
Interesting, I wasn't aware that the older engines made that much torque.. I suppose that's what I get for starting with an FD!

It's all in the way you set it up. For practical purposes that means giving up top end horsepower to an extent. Stock ports for example make it easier. The stock ports are designed for usable torque.
Yeah, I was aware that porting tends to shift the torque curve to the right some. I suppose it really does all boil down to how you want to use the car... Personally I'd be more interested in lower peak power, but spread over a wider range, as opposed to some dyno queen that hits huge numbers, but only for 500rpms up top
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Old Feb 6, 2012 | 12:12 PM
  #39  
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Interesting, I wasn't aware that the older engines made that much torque.. I suppose that's what I get for starting with an FD!

They don't- they make that little power past 5,250rpm. FD sequential makes more torque.
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 05:03 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by HppRX7
If I had to guess it was around 15-20 ftlbs, we had a couple of dyno issues up to the last tuning day so C. Ludwig and I were pretty cashed in at the end of the day and did not copy over any other dyno sheets. Oh, and I do not have any water injection. I decided just to run 110 and forget about it.

I have a build thread on another rotary forum ( don't know if I can post the link to another forum..) so you guys can see all the details if needed. I think I might have told Chris incorrectly on the turbo because I forget things like that.

Turbo: Custom Precision Turbo HP5530SP with .78 AR T3 exhaust housing twin scroll, the exhaust wheel is a 60mm/84trim.

I know using a small turbo is unorthodox and not common but it worked for my purpose and worked it did. I basically slapped a single on an un-opened re-manufactured engine with big injectors and a Haltech. Also I had the stock fly wheel too. I raced the car for two seasons with out a any engine problems or turbo issues. All this was due to the un-matched tuning skills by the master himself C. Ludwig.

Also the stock reman engine is out and getting replaced. I wanted 350 ftlbs and I got it. Now I want more! any help and or advise will be greatly appreciated.

CT
I think pte billet 5862 cea ballbearing turbo should be great for your setup
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Old Sep 22, 2012 | 07:47 AM
  #41  
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Update: Now the 2012 Street Modified National Champion

It seems relevant to state that it's not the size of the boat that counts. It's the motion of the ocean ...



Originally Posted by C. Ludwig
Update:

This car just finished 3rd overall at the ProSolo Nationals. Also placed 8th overall at the Solo Nationals. It rained on day one of the Solo race and they had no rain setup and a terrible time as a result. On day two, in dry conditions, they posted the fastest time in class.
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Old Sep 22, 2012 | 08:38 AM
  #42  
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The driver behind the wheel makes a big difference too.

Congrats Carter!
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Old Sep 22, 2012 | 09:10 AM
  #43  
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Posted this on the Haltech boards:


One of our customers, and all around good guy, Carter Thompson won his class at the SCCA SoloII National Championships this past week in Lincoln, Nebraska. Carter and his Mazda RX-7 pretty well dismantled the deeply talented field and posted a final margin of victory of 1.9 seconds. In a sport that counts a tenth of a second as a fairly large margin, this was a huge victory! Congratulations to Carter and his dad Jim for their hard work and dedication. With the exception of the engine management installation and tuning, which we performed, they've done all their own fab and setup work. The car features electrically driven power steering and a Haltech controlled electric water pump.

In addition to outright performance, the reliability of the package was featured when an RX-7 competitor in another class had their car break. Carter loaned them his car to finish the competition!






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Old Sep 22, 2012 | 09:40 AM
  #44  
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^ Chris, Can we get some details on the electric power steering setup and the EWP? Thanks.
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 01:11 PM
  #45  
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Not really. You'd need to talk to Carter about that. I know he's using the Haltech to control the EWP through a solid state relay. No idea what he's doing with the electric power steering pump. I'll PM's you his username.
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 01:26 PM
  #46  
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I'd like to see the build thread...
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 01:28 PM
  #47  
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Sorry to reawaken the thread, but I'd guess the EPS is a rack out of an S2000. I know the FD racks will bolt into the S2000 for greater steering angle, but I'm not sure how the EPS would be controlled in another car...
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 04:46 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Sobe_Death
Sorry to reawaken the thread, but I'd guess the EPS is a rack out of an S2000. I know the FD racks will bolt into the S2000 for greater steering angle, but I'm not sure how the EPS would be controlled in another car...
its an MR2 setup from what he had available to him. i saw he posted more details in another thread. just search his user name for recent posts
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 06:29 PM
  #49  
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Ah, so an Electro-hydraulic system. Makes sense, as you wouldn't have to figure out the programming!
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Old Jan 5, 2013 | 12:38 AM
  #50  
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need built details
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