Single Turbo RX-7's Questions about all aspects of single turbo setups.

Atten. carcrazy question about your set up.

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Old May 16, 2001 | 05:48 PM
  #2  
carcrazy's Avatar
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From: Irvine, ca
Go with the 550 cc primaries. Mine is still a tad rich. The next phase for the car will be to remove the cat, remap to 9000 rpm redline and see if that improves power. They are stating the car could get at least 420 rwhp. Too funny - from a "mere" HKS T04E kit!!!

As for the sec. - you should be good with 1100 cc secondaries. The 1200 cc secondaries are not much of a problem as the primaries are. The primaries are used most of the time anyway, so they would be more critical.

So, you are running the same type of setup? Are you running the Racing Beat lightened and clipped rotors? (huge grin!) This should make a noticeable difference also. What type of exhaust do you have? Give me a list of your mods. This sounds interesting and quite cool.

congratulations on the project. These are exciting times!!!

Rick

[This message has been edited by carcrazy (edited May 16, 2001).]
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Old May 17, 2001 | 12:09 AM
  #4  
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From: Knoxville, TN
carcrazy: My need upgrades are fuel, IC, then turbo, so I am trying to figure out which turbo so I can pick the other two. Anyway, I was curious as to why you selected the HKS kit over the XS kit? Also is that install the normal install for the kit and do you have any clearance issues? One last ? for you. At what boost level did you make 393 RWHP? -- cause I like it! Any driving impressions compared to stock twins would be nice.

If you have this in another thread, just tell me and I'll go find it.

[This message has been edited by spyfish007 (edited May 17, 2001).]
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Old May 17, 2001 | 05:05 PM
  #5  
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From: Irvine, ca
Originally posted by Red Baron:
Thank you for your quick response. My car is in the shop right now and it will be for at least a month or a lil'more. My goal is not Max.hp,it is reliability and driveability. My mods will be:

Engine ported for low and mid power (tons of torque)
3mm apex seals
HKS TO4E kit
Power PFC and Commander
RB lighten steel flywheel (17 pounds)
RB 4.30 ring and pinion
HKS DP
Bonez Mid pipe
HKS Twin Power ignition amp.
RB cat back
M2 mid size IC
Apexi BOV
Greddy profec B boost controler
550cc Pri and 1100cc Sec
Rotary Performance upgraded fuel pump
Bonez street competition clutch and pressure plate
What will the clip rotors do for performance? as soon as I break in the engine I'll let you know what I got on the Dyno and compare maps.
The clipped and lightened rotors are the same type of mod used on piston motors as lightened connecting rods and light-weight pistons - it reduces your rotating mass. The clipped rotors will eliminate the high speed wobble of your rotors at high speed. The mod should be good for higher RPM as well as quicker acceleration. You should pick up some more overall horsepower as well. Is it worth the $2200 cost - most likely no for a street car. I had it done as it was something I always wanted to do to my old '93 RX-7 and figured I would be different.

Break in the motor carefully, no more than 4 or 5 lbs boost. Lots of heating and cooling cycles. Drive it way easy. It will pay off in the long run.

laterz

Rick

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Old May 17, 2001 | 05:15 PM
  #6  
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From: Irvine, ca
Here is the list of my mods:

- HKS T04E single
- street port (Redline Engineering)
- 2 mm seals (special from Redline Engineering)
- lightened and clipped rotors (Racing Beat)
- intake ports cleaned
- pinned housings (Redline Engineering)
- Random Tech cat
- 660 cc pri, 1200 cc sec injectors
- Greddy SP exhaust
- HKS front mount type "S" intercooler
- ceramic coated exhaust manifold, exhaust housing of turbo, and down-pipe
- SX fuel pressure regulator and Denso fuel pump
- PowerFC computer (awesome tuning by X S Engineering!!! I Feel the Power!)
- Magnecor plug wires
- NGK plugs
- B&M Ignition Amp
- KAAZ 2-way LSD
- MazdaSpeed Power-Plant-Frame
- Fluidyne radiator
- huge oil cooler
- ACT clutch and pressure plate
- Unorthodox pulley set
All dyno runs were with the full exhaust intact!

393 rwhp 287 ft/lbs torque

Next mods...

1. Change primaries to 550 cc
2. Change to fiber clutch disk, 6-puck springless disk is hell on the street! I am selling!
3. Remap to 9000 rpm as current map is to 8000 rpm
4. Remove cat and run mod-pipe
5. Re-tune and see what hp we now have!!! I am shooting for +420 reliable hp and more torque.

Go to my www icon for the 393 hp dyno run. In the RX-7 section near the bottom. The torque and hp is excellent!

Rick

[This message has been edited by carcrazy (edited May 17, 2001).]
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Old May 18, 2001 | 09:51 AM
  #7  
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From: Knoxville, TN
Thanks for the update. What can you tell me about the HKS setup. Is that the normal location for the intercooler? Why the HKS turbo? I really like what you've done, so thanks for the info -- and what not to do!
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Old May 18, 2001 | 01:52 PM
  #8  
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From: Irvine, ca
This HKS front mount intercooler is the only place this huge thing will fit (there is a joke there...). You should also install the Fluidyne radiator also. This will require the radiator to be mounted upright.

The HKS single turbo kit is quite complete. The X S turbo kit also is quite good. Either one you will be happy with. If I had to do it again, I would go with the X S kit just because I am located so close to X S Engineering and know those guys. They are great.

Here are the important things to remember on a single upgrade:

1. select a good and complete kit
2. install the SX fuel pressure regulator (it is a bitch and recommend install from a local professional that has done this type of thing before)
3. B&M coil amplifier (cheap and works great)
4. good boost controller - either Greddy Profec or APEXi AVC-R
5. better oil cooler
6. Fluidyne radiator
7. stronger clutch - take your choice but ACT is a great product
8. Tune the motor for reliability with a safety margin. It will last longer also.

there are other small things. These are the important things that should be accomplished (fuel, spark, water/oil cooling, boost control, clutch). A rebuild of the motor would be good but not critical if the motor is strong and running well.

have fun and thank you for the nice comments!

Rick
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Old May 18, 2001 | 04:13 PM
  #9  
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From: Knoxville, TN
Here we go . . .
intercooler: Greddy or Apex
radiator: already have fluidyne

Here are the important things to remember on a single upgrade:

>1. select a good and complete kit
I can do this -- also been considering making my own. I have a friend with a mill plus he welds, -note:he builds kits for diesel trucks.

>2. install the SX fuel pressure regulator
Haven't really heard of people doing this. Is this one of those things people usually leave out when talking about mods?

>3. B&M coil amplifier
I was thinking Jacobs Rotary Pak

>4. good boost controller
I have PowerFC so going to use it.

>5. better oil cooler
Thought about this too. I have a R1 and I was thinking about upgrading driver's side and removing passenger side. Reason for removing passenger side is I think it would be good to duct in fresh air for the intake.

>6. Fluidyne radiator
done!

>7. stronger clutch
ACT recommendation taken!

>8. Tune the motor for reliability with a >safety margin. It will last longer also.
Will do . . .

Thanks and let me know what you think of the above.
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Old May 19, 2001 | 03:52 AM
  #10  
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Why would you want to use smaller primary injectors?

I am running 850cc primaries and the car idles like a baby at 1000rpm.

Bigger injectors = more fuel can be injected which can only be a good thing.

------------------
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Old May 19, 2001 | 11:49 AM
  #11  
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From: West Covina, CA
Larger primaries will result harder to tune part throttle, idle, fuel economy, and if bad tuning during low load cruising can create too much carbon on rotors.



------------------
Wayne
93 CYM R1
86 MR2 N/A
www.geocities.com/tristarx
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Old May 20, 2001 | 10:55 PM
  #12  
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From: Knoxville, TN
Thanks again!

I wouldn't have looked into all the lines otherwise.
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Old May 20, 2001 | 11:08 PM
  #13  
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From: lebanon
Originally posted by tristarx:
Larger primaries will result harder to tune part throttle, idle, fuel economy, and if bad tuning during low load cruising can create too much carbon on rotors.


It comes down to the "quality" of your ECU, my Autronic engine managment unit fires 4 880cc injectors ALL THE TIME! It idles fine, part throttle is fine, fuel economy is EXCELLENT !

Some "other" ECU's may have difficulties with this ?


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Old May 21, 2001 | 05:40 PM
  #14  
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I can't imagine a 20% change in primary injector size would make a noticable difference in fuel economy/driveability. I would argue for keeping the larger injectors in place. I am currently using an older TECII that was manufactured before staged injection was available. My setup uses (4) 550's in the stock locations, and (2) 720's on a custom rail. They ALL fire together (well, in alternate sets of 3 at least). Basically, it is like having 2 giant 1820's with no primary/secondary designation. Of course it was a nightmare to tune, BUT it does idle and cruise nicely. It was a setup constructed out of necessity several years ago, and will be changed shortly! In search of even more fuel, I am switching to (2) 720's with (2) 1600's. This time, I am building a mosfet injector driver off the GPO to stage them (finally!) In short, I don't see a problem with the larger primaries.

George http://Exit13b.com
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Old May 24, 2001 | 12:39 AM
  #15  
carcrazy's Avatar
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From: Irvine, ca
Originally posted by spyfish007:
Here we go . . .
intercooler: Greddy or Apex
radiator: already have fluidyne

Here are the important things to remember on a single upgrade:

>1. select a good and complete kit
I can do this -- also been considering making my own. I have a friend with a mill plus he welds, -note:he builds kits for diesel trucks.

>2. install the SX fuel pressure regulator
Haven't really heard of people doing this. Is this one of those things people usually leave out when talking about mods?

>3. B&M coil amplifier
I was thinking Jacobs Rotary Pak

>4. good boost controller
I have PowerFC so going to use it.

>5. better oil cooler
Thought about this too. I have a R1 and I was thinking about upgrading driver's side and removing passenger side. Reason for removing passenger side is I think it would be good to duct in fresh air for the intake.

>6. Fluidyne radiator
done!

>7. stronger clutch
ACT recommendation taken!

>8. Tune the motor for reliability with a >safety margin. It will last longer also.
Will do . . .

Thanks and let me know what you think of the above.
I really like the HKS type "S" front mount. It fits nicely behind my grill ('99 Japanese spec).

1. Be careful on what you are getting into.

2. The fuel pressure regulator is important as the regulator is this small black thing under your intake manifold (along with other critical components). When they fail, they normally fail closed - low or no fuel. This would be a sure way to pop your motor or at least really **** you off.

3. The B&M has quite a bit of EMI. Using my cell phone in this car is a challenge.

4. PowerFC may not be that accurate on controlling the boost for you. I would recommend the APEXi AVC-R highly. It smoothed out my boost as well so I don't have a strong transition. It is very very smooth (much like the 911 Turbo).

5. I like the way you are going. This is what I did as well. I have a remote oil filter as well with all Earl plumbing - looks cool too. The oil cooler is very large and located on the driver's side.

All the other items look great.

Good luck!

Rick
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Old May 24, 2001 | 12:58 AM
  #16  
spyfish007's Avatar
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From: Knoxville, TN
I love this forum . . .
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Old May 24, 2001 | 02:09 PM
  #17  
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From: Irvine, ca
Originally posted by spyfish007:
carcrazy: My need upgrades are fuel, IC, then turbo, so I am trying to figure out which turbo so I can pick the other two. Anyway, I was curious as to why you selected the HKS kit over the XS kit? Also is that install the normal install for the kit and do you have any clearance issues? One last ? for you. At what boost level did you make 393 RWHP? -- cause I like it! Any driving impressions compared to stock twins would be nice.

If you have this in another thread, just tell me and I'll go find it.

[This message has been edited by spyfish007 (edited May 17, 2001).]
There were some clearance issues with the air conditioning lines. We had to "gently" move them a little to clear the turbo.

The boost level was 1 bar of boost - this setting was on the AVC-R. The boost gauge reads 14 psi.

As far as driving the car... It is much easier to drive than stock. Aside from the clutch (6-puck springless) the motor is a dream. There is just smooth brutal power up to 8000 rpm. The real power comes on at around 3000-3500 rpm. There are no surges in power compared to the stock setup. I love it!

Rick
Here are my two loves!



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Old May 24, 2001 | 05:20 PM
  #18  
spyfish007's Avatar
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From: Knoxville, TN
Well if you say the XS kit is just as good as the HKS kit, then I might just go with it. Also, I am a little weary of that HKS intercooler and how low it hangs down. I'll have to do some thinking in this department. Regardless thanks to all for the input. This wasn't even my thread, but I know where I want to take the car now. Now I just have to get the $$ . . . .
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Old May 25, 2001 | 01:53 AM
  #20  
carcrazy's Avatar
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From: Irvine, ca
Originally posted by Red Baron:
carcrazy: do you have the HKS TO4E kit or a TO4E kit put together by XS eng.???? The question comes because the clerance issue with the a/c lines. Could this be because a slight difference in the manifold??? I have my car in the process of single convertion now and would like to pass on this info to my builder.
Thanks again for your reply
The kit I have installed is the HKS kit. Did not know about the X S Engineering kit before.

Be sure they install the SX fuel pressure regulator. It looks to be a bitch to do.

Hope everything goes well! Make sure you visit them all the time.

Rick
Here are my two car loves!



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Old May 25, 2001 | 05:18 PM
  #22  
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From: Irvine, ca
Originally posted by Red Baron:
Thanks again carcrazy, what wheels are you sporting on the RX7??? I have Volk Racing III 2 piece, very similar to yours. 17x8 41mm offset front 235/40, 17x9 44mm offset rear 255/40 YOKO's 520. No clerance or rubbing problems and car is lowered by R.Beat springs to 1 inch.
I am running Volk SE-37s:

18x8 225/40
18x9.5 265/35

I am not certain the width. The tires sizes are correct though.

So far, I had the fenders clipped and worked for more clearance.

Rick
Here are my two cars loves!

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