Since people always want to know this stuff... here is my total investment in my car.... All prices are approximate and could be off by 25-50 bucks or whatever. None of the prices include any labor since I did it all myself.

Car - 16500
Mods - 11980
Total - 28480

415 rwhp and 350 rwtq @15 PSI - Priceless

Item Note Approximate Cost
1993 RX-7 R1 Excellent Condition 46k miles Bought in 1998 16500
XS-Engineering T04S Kit Via RX-7 store group buy 2800
Racing Beat dual tip cat back 500
Midpipe Used 80
Mallory 4305M Fuel Pressure Reg Local speed shop 100
Misc lines and fittings Local speed shop 40
M2 Medium Intercooler M2 Performance 1500
Upgraded Supra Fuel Pump RX-7 Store 240
ACT Extreme Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel M2 Performance 900
Fluidyne Radiator KDRotary 450
Tein HA shocks and springs 1000
Greddy Elbow 115
Greddy Pulleys RX-7 Store 115
Unorthodox Racing Main Pulley RX-7 Store 190
K&N generic intake filter 40
HKS Twin Power Ignition KDRotary 400
Magnecore Plug Wires Came with car 0
Spark plugs - 10 and 9 heat ranges 30
PowerFC + commander 1100
Datalogit 250
Techedge DIY Wideband www.techedge.com.au 230
1600 cc injectors + fuel rail k2rd 400
Rebuild + Street Port 1500

 

I can't even say how much I got into mine but it hurts and I know only cause I had to appraise it for insurance purposes. The best part is try and sell it for what you've got into it and everyone in here will tell you it's not worth it.

 

Okay, I have to ask - is there something wrong with the factory FD pulleys?

 

unorthodox pulleys are smaller, underdrives the alt and/or the water pump.

 

Rebuild and street port for $1500?

edit: oh yeah, no labor..

Didn't get new rotor housings though?

 

Is it desirable to underdrive the water pump? Older rotaries tended to spin the water pump too fast - I don't know if this is true for the FD.

As for underdriving the alternator, why? It takes as much power as it needs to produce the wattage needed to run the electrical system. This is controlled by the voltage regulator. Spin the alternator slower, and the regulator compensates by increasing field current - now it takes more torque to turn.
Turn the alternator too slow, and it can't do its job.

 

I don't know, either. I just know what they do.

I would assume that the water pump starts to cavitate at higher RPMs.

 

One word: inertia. Even when there is no field, accelerating the, um, spinny part of the alternator eats power -- it's heavy.

-Max

 

"spinny thing" = rotor. That's actually the field, in generator parlance. In a generator, from the days of olde, it would be the stationary part.

I'll bet the inertial impact of the pulley change is imperceptible on the car in question...

 

The purpose of the larger (underdriven) alternator pulley is to improve the amount of contact the belt has on the water pump pulley when one removes the air pump. If you remove the air pump and keep the stock alternator pulley it may work, but it will have a tendency to slip especially at higher RPM.

 

I have owned 2 FD's in the past 7 years. Each car has had about $25k dumped into them on top of what the car costs.
Just to do a single turbo upgrade correctly it costs about $10k. No labor since I do my own work.

Jason

 

The best advice I can give you is if you have to ask stay with the twins.

 

My best advice is if you really plan on keeping the car forever then go with the single.

 

Here is my modlist for going single.
I already have an ECU and a turbo manifold and a few other stuff needed, all other stuff needed like fuel lines fuel filter DP etc i will fabricate myself.

Turbo
Oil lines
Wastegate
FMIC
BOV
Fuelrail
1600cc Injectors
Koyo radiator
Sparkwire and plugs

Ca $3000-3500

Should i think this over cause my estimated total cost is way lower than most that i have seen here?

 

with a used intercooler/BOV setup, and fabbing(only bought fuel rail from RX7 vendors) up my own fuel system...I did it for about that.

2100 for turbo/wastegate/manifold/oil, water lines/dp
800 for greddy IC/elbow and greddy type R BOV(used)
150 for fuel rail for 1600s
30 bucks for 1600 injectors(ebay special)
50 bucks + spare -6an fittings
140 fuel pressure reg
100 bucks for turbo heat wrap

right up around 3400-3500. and this is about as cheap as I think you can do it and not get into some pretty iffy decisions. It is ghetto But it will last. Should last The ebay manifold is my only real concern...but I know how to weld

john

 

I have an OBX motorsports manifold, anyone have good and bad experiences with it?

I can get a new turbo very cheap, and a used one very cheap aswell.