BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

I found some info on this turbo, but mostly from TII guys. I haven't seen any results from a 13B-Rew. I don't want more than 400 to the wheels. Don't tell me to go with BNR's because I don't want to, and I won't go GT35r either. The 35r is out of the range I want to be in. The car will mainly be used for Solo1 and AutoX, so quick spool up is a must.

No you may ask why I'm not keeping stock turbos. Well, they are toast. Rebuilding them, getting the rich-man's modification and porting the wastegate is going to cost what I can get a Mitsu TD06-20g for. And I want simplicity in the engine bay. No brick oven, no stupid sequential or any of that crap. I'm not a big HP guy, I want something that is a riot on the street, but will still hold it's own on track days and AutoX.

Any info would be great... even dyno plots if anyone has one of the 20g, and I guess the 25g too.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mitsu...mZ140253395568 This is what I'm interested in, the internal would be blocked off and I would run an external gate... easier to find a manifold.

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

https://www.rx7club.com/spec-tuning-154/how-size-matters-478915/

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

good read, thanks.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

OK, so at 15 psi at 8500rpm it would flow 702cfm, which on this map is here.

at 20psi the pressure ratio would be 2.36 so

2.6L x 8500RPM x 90%VE x 2.36PR /5660 = 829.33CFM or 61.78 lb/min

So if I'm reading this correct, if the plot is off to the right of the "island" that means the turbo is going to choke at basically over 15psi?

So I did a 10psi calculation too...

2.6L x 8500RPM x 90%VE x 1.686PR /5660 = 590.37 or 43.98 lb/min

At this PSI, it still looks like the plot would be slightly outside the island so that is no good.

And if I did it correct, 10psi at 43.98 lb/min would approx be 330 WHP which is not a lot at all.

Hmmm, I am starting to understand compressor maps! This is great.


If you see anything incorrect in my calculations let me know so I can do it right.

Also, can someone explain the 90% VE to me and why he chose to use %90. Whic does this stand for?


I am going to try to find a 25g map.




Another question, if I want a quicker spool up... I can have the plot land still on the island but closer to the right side? That would mean the turbo is on the smaller side, so will spool up quicker?

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

If I want to hit 400, I need to be able to flow 400(hp)/7.5= 53.33 lb/min and should be in the 70% range or so for quicker spool?

what is the calculation to convert from lb/min to CFM?



Looking at this here... 53.33 lb/min fits nicely into the T66 map. Now I jsut need to figure out what PSI... but since it can flow 32PSI, wouldn't it be a bit on the big side, since I would never use that area of the map.







Ok, so I figured it out. To hit a solid 400HP, I need to flow approx 700cfm (52 lb.min) at 2.0 PR (on our engines is 15psi).

No time to find a nice map that fits my needs.


Also, to try to read maps for twin turbo use... do you just half the CFM and keep the Pressure Ratio the same? Example, if you flowed 500cfm at 1.5 PR. Would you read the map at the 1.5PR but the CFM at 250?

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

convert CFM to LB per MIN = CFM x 0.070318 = LB/MIN (@ sea level and 112
degrees*)

R-R-Rx7

iTrader: (24)

why dont u go with a t78?

darkside7

iTrader: (12)

have you ever thought about the a-spec gt3574 kit? quality kit with good turbo response, and will not break your bank.

Eddie

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

What are opinions on the Borg Warner TO4e.

54 Trim, .60 A/R Compressor
.84 A/R Turbine

Devided T4

Found it for a sweet deal, I searched here and it seems like it's a high 300's turbo. That sounds exactly like what I want.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turbo...QQcmdZViewItem

dregg100

iTrader: (34)

because it does nothing for what he wants

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

I think I'm going to go with the BW. After a bit of searching it seems the best setup for what I want is a devided T4, 57 trim .6 A/R with a .84 turbine A/R. Good for quickish spool and a solid 375-400 at 15psi.

SpiritR_21

I'd imagine it be a nice street turbo, versus the T78.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

ya well that's what I'm looking for. if I get the HKS devided T4, it leaves nice room to grow to something bigger if I get bored . But for $500 for a new BW turbo, I'm not complaining. Maybe in the future I'll go with a GT35r but I can't justify spending over a grand on a turbo right now.

I've priced everything out, and since I have my fuel system already done and have a w/band and PowerFC already in the car, I'm only looking at about $1500 for the rest of the whole set up (mani, turbo, D/P, SMIC and lines). I'm getting excited.

mojoeFD

just letting you know i Have a TD07-25a and i love it. Tuned to 1.0 bar and putting about 330 down. Spools at 3600rpms and with my injectors can boost up to 1.6 or 1.8. Have been told that would put right around 400 at the wheel.
Love the turbo but everyone says might as well go to a TO4z or e.
good luck with what you get

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

Doesn't that seem a little low to you? Most guys here are putting down around 400 at 1 bar give or take some. And of course, you have to take into account different types of dyno's. BTW, what kinda dyno did you use?

fd0

iTrader: (8)

I have the powerfc, wideband, fuel system, and entire turbo kit and I'm still looking at +$3,500 as my balance to do it right....

clutch $550
pressure plate
throwout bearing
flywheel $400
pilot bearing $9
pilot bearing puller $88
pilot bearing installer $40
3bar MAP sensor $79
transmission brace
spark plugs n/a
HKS twin power ignition $420
HKS twin power ignition harness
fuel pump $264
fuel filter $25
stainless steel clutch line $40
underdrive pulley kit $350
air pump elimination kit
OMP elimination kit n/a
gaskets $40
oil pan brace $124
silicone hoses $96
oil catch can $95
heater hoses $77 N3A1-15-185A, N3A1-15-186, N3A1-13-681A, N3A1-13-691B, N3A1-13-692A, FD01-61-213B, FD01-61-212A, FD01-61-214A, FD01-61-211A
turbo blanket $150
evan's cooling $130
stainless steel oil lines $50
fabricate turbo to intercooler pipe
4" worm gear clamps $40
copper sheets for gaskets
cat back exhaust $400
vacuum caps
LIM gasket
car wheel rollers $100
transmission jack $100
flywheel brake $113

TOTAL $3,730

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

Sorry man, but your list is a joke. Half that stuff is either way overpriced or not even needed/waste of money. .... a transmission jack ... turbo blanker? Seriously, lift it. It's not that hard with a widowmaker jack and your arms.

I have most of that stuff done already, clutch, block off plates, fuel system, vac lines etc.. and it didn't cost anywhere near the prices you posted.

fd0

iTrader: (8)

Maybe some of it is unneeded and maybe overpriced (looking at prices on several vendor sites) but if you're going to be replacing your setup to single you might as well do other things while you're in there like maintenance items.

You might do things one way but don't say that it's a waste of money. To you it might be but it might not be for me or other people.

It's your car but my motto is if you're going to do it, do it right and do it once....sorry, that's TurboJeff's motto.

Good luck to you and hope you never have to go back and replace something while you could of done it before everything was out.

Mike

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

I fully understand. I am making sure I have everything I need done when the engine bay is apart, so I won't need to go back once it's all togethor. Just other things will come in time, not everything on your list is needed right away. I wish I had $3500 to spend on my car but ATM that won't be happening.

kenn_chan

which is exactly what chilling did, he listed every possible item he could think of that he would need including some tools that he was either renting, or buying. not sure of the prices as everything is more expensive here but it looks pretty complete.

for example you say the SS braided clutch line is not needed. I say why bother to replace clutch, flywheel, (HD) pressure plate (which causes more stress on the line), bearing etc and not change a 10 year old plus rubber line that a) flexes, and b) will probably blow out. why not do it know and not worry about it later? cause you want to half *** your project. not all people half *** their project cars some do it right the first time.........

evans water wetter...sounds like a reasonable sound investment. maybe he wants to lessen the chance of overheating.(cheaper than a motor)

264 for a fuel pump... if its a nippondenso like a sard, or apexi than it will cost about that much and in comparisons to the walbros that constantly **** up and burn out its a sound investment, now if you are paying that much for a walbro then I agree its too much. areomotives might cost that much..no clue though.

and as far as the tools go, they are never a waste of money, if they are reasonable qulity they will pay for them selves over their life span

kenn

setzep

I ran a TD07 with a 25G compressor for 5 years on the street and loved how it spooled up. If you are looking for something that will start building boost at 2500 rpm this may not be for your but by 3000 it's coming on and by 3500 it's at the beginning of the powerband that brought me to 7k with a stock port 13b-re.

I would guess a TD06 would be on the small side unless you ran two

arghx

iTrader: (3)

are TD06's even a T4 footprint? or smaller?