philkeoghan

Hey just woundering what you know or if you can help me in any areas.

This is my set up full rebuilt full bridge port running td06 and apexi power fc with commander.

I have removed the rats nest as it doesn't get used with a single but I am unsure if I need to do anything with the wiring from it? or anything else

Also it was running real good until I removed it and now it gets so hot the extrators glow red pretty quick even just idleing so I take it they have to be insane exhaust gas temps, I'm also getting high knock readings on the power fc commander (88) I don't want to damage it.

It feels like it's lost power and not loving it like it use to, I've got the boost at 9psi when I usually run it at 13psi

Have you got any ideas of what I might have got wrong?
Any help would be great

Would leaking injectors ever cause this?

atihun

Sounds like something is either disconnected or you cut the wrong wire. Possiby a wire for an injector.

GT1-20b

Check to see You haven't lost the leading ignition.
When the leading goes away, the results are: Hi EGT, loss of performance, loss of throtle responce, a distinct mid frequency howl eminating from arround the turbo's outlet (Afterburn), RED hot exhaust manifold.
With hi overlap engines like Yours, the signal to the MAP drops, the sensor's voltage drops, telling the ECU to send more fuel.
Because the vacum is lower, the engine needs less fuel to idel properly, but the ECU is sending more fuel than normal, it thinks You'r accelerating !
So, one must trim the Power Fc to a very lean setting JUST for idel, AND AS SOON AS OFF IDEL, & into slight throtle, as in say 8" to 6" Hg & beyond, increase the fuel +/- 20% > stock, as a starting point, and tune for an A/F ratio richer than 12.
A bridge ported Turbo engine, requires an excess of fuel, simply to overcome the Exhaust contamination, and Charge air delution, that the hi- overlap of the bridge ports produces.
This in not a desirable condition that requires dedicated hardware to "tune" out.
By that I mean, a exceptionally larger than normal Intercooler, to compensate for the hotter intake charge, & an exhaust manifold long enough to "time" out the rebounding exhaust pulses from reaching the exhaust port during the overlap period.
Also, Hi overlap motors respond specially well to highly advanced trailing timing when in vacun (ONLY). As You know, one must retard the Trailing well beyond the (L) when in boost.
This will radically LOWER the EGT's and produce exceptional throtle responce.
If this all sound a bit confusing, it really isn't, just more dificult to deal with & tune.
Does it make more power? on race cars yes, on steet cars? I don't believe so.
Because of the back presure that exist between the engine and the Turbo, on a very hi overlap motor, balancing the boost againt the exhaust back press. becones a dificult task. Specially on a street car on pump gas.
Best Regards,

GT1-20b

philkeoghan

Hey thanks for the information I'll look into all those areas, do you know what is concidered a hight knock reading? mine got to (88) while it's been running like this

GT1-20b

Any Knock is a BAD KNOCK
Allowing know is unacceptable !

philkeoghan

Yeah thanks for that, I know you don't want any knock in the motor, is it possible to have it completely free of knock readings though? like if it was perfectly tuned?

Also I pulled of the UIM to check for any problems, I didn't find any wiring out of place or anything I forgot to connect but I did find the block off plate on the inside of the lower intake manifold I think it covers the air control valve - this was leaking as it had black stuff comming out of it looked like carbon. I spose this would have been a major vacume leak.

Also I pulled my primary injectors out as I have decided to upgrade with the 850's and 1600's and I found the bottom O ring seal on one of them was ripped

Would these cause those sorts of problems?
I haven't reassembled yet as I'm still waiting for the injectors