I was wondering if there were any single turbo kits that would retain the factory A/C. I have tried searching but found nothing. I know most modified fd's remove their A/C wether for more room or less parasitic draw to free up more power.
I live in New England which means I only have a very limited time before old man winter arrives so therefor I would like to drive my fd as many days as possible even in those hot and humid days. So was just wondering if it was possible to have power and comfort together or would I need to choose between the two.

 

They all should. It's the other side of the engine . People remove the A/C for the reasons you mentioned, and not typically because there is a confliction with a single turbo.

The real question is, to keep the A/C after an intercooler and radiator upgrade. This is where room, OEM lines, air flow and modification can come into play.

I personally think it is silly to remove the A/C from a street car. I went with a vmount. The Rotary Extreme kit keeps the A/C and that is part of the reason I chose it. That, and it's excellent quality.

Another issue people run into is the belt setup. Removing A/C means they remove the PS since they are both driven by a single belt. I removed my PS with no issues. That is one part I am glad is gone. However, with no PS and A/C, I had to get a custom length belt and run it rib side down on the idler. No issues at all. It's been like that for 4k miles.

 

Thanks for all the great info. Would you happen to have any pictures of your engine bay so that I can see your setup? Thanks.

 

My build thread link is in my signature.

Most of those pictures were taken during my swap, and I hadn't yet decided what to do about the no PS/keeping A/C issue.

But you can see the stud where the PS idler pulley bolts up. My original plan was to mount a custom ribbed idler. But after advice from another member, I went the route I did. I simply used that idler for the A/C, running a ribb'd belt face down to the smooth idler. I just measured the loop of the three (main pulley, idler, A/C) and went to Advance Auto for that length belt. Works like a champ. Since the main & A/C pullys are ribbed, the idler causes no issues being smooth. It stays right where it should be... and it's an OEM replaceable part.

 

If you are going to keep your A/C I wouldn't recommend a FMIC, and you will need a radiator upgrade. Part of the reason people get rid of the a/c is so the condenser doesn't block the radiator airflow.

 

So what you are saying is that I should get a vmic and a upgraded radiator that bolts up into the stock location for better cooling due to the v mount? Sorry about all the question, newbie still trying to learn.

 

Also if I go with a vmic, then just about any brand/size single turbo and any brand exhaust manifold will clear the a/c compressor? Thanks.

 

Definitely need to start searching man. The pro's and cons of our intercooler options have been covered with great detail. Vmount, stock mount, front mount....

Personally, I think Vmount is the absolute best option. The reasoning is exactly what you mentioned. The vmount allows both cooling mediums to equally have availability of ambient air.

You gotta look at your engine bay bro.... The A/C compressor is on the OPPOSITE side of the engine. There isn't an exhaust manifold and turbo out there that is going to conflict. Go through the engine bay pics thread and look at some single turbo setups to help visualize. The A/C condensor is the typical issue. As Turblown mentioned, it can pose a problem when mounting to the radiator on some setups.

Most Vmount kits don't accomodate A/C condensor mounting and lines. They leave it up to the owner to either fabricate or like most, remove it. Rotary Extreme does, and this is why I bought their kit. Quality is nothing short of amazing. But like most quality products, they aren't cheap. Ben is an awesome guy and will answer any questions you have. Check out their site. My car is in their gallery as well, #10

http://www.rotaryextreme.com/fdindex.html

 

Yeah what happen was I had mistaken the air pump for the compressor. Now everything makes a lot more sense.


Thanks for all your help guys.

 

v-mount is about the only way to still retain a/c and then you need to modify the condenser lines to and from the condenser, most people can't be bothered with that.

with upgraded turbos you also generate more heat from the engine no matter what, making the radiator even more important to get fresh cool air to keep the coolant temps under control.

with all that you need a way of getting the hot air out of the engine bay easily.

so ideally you are looking at:
v-mount intercooler with dedicated fresh air to the condenser then radiator
ducted hood to vent heat
upgraded radiator
custom a/c lines



mazda actually had the right idea making the intercooler secondary in order of importance for cooling, most people just slap on a front mount and eliminate the A/C and barely squeak by in summer.

 

Pettic Cool charge III with Water/Meth. Great intake temps, room for a fluidyne aluminum radiator, and can keep the AC condensor in the factory location and can get nice cold air.

Im pretty sure most of the VMIC that keep the AC are expensive but I dont keep up to date on the latest products these days. You can find a good Cool Charge III used for $7-900.00 here on the forum.

Does require you to relocate the battery or run a really small battery.

 

What about installing a 185 deg fan switch and thermostat?? Any one do this???

 

Search fc thermoswitch.

 

The old Blitz rear FMIC along with the Koyo "N" pass is the best combination other than a
good "V" mount.

 

Yes, Vmount "kits" are expensive. The general opinion is that they are the best for a reason... they are.

I went back and fourth on this topic when I chose a single turbo setup. Ultimately, I knew I couldn't sacrifice durability for cost. I am in the military and knew that being stationed in New Mexico, Florida or any other very hot climate is always possible. Because I have a street car, I wasn't going to sacrifice both engine cooling, and personal cooling for cash that I only had to spend once anyway....

 

Agreed. A proper Vmount will transform the engine bay and the car--as everything will work the way it should. Engine bay temps are substantially reduced and overall cooling improved. Good airflow can do wonders....

 

Sure there are turbo setups out there that can retain the AC/PS/Stock battery location. I wouldn't necessary call it a kit, but you can sure piece up a nice kit to your specs.

Agree, that FMIC are not really the most efficient to run with AC, but if your traveling at around 20mph+ you'll get all the cold air you want with AC. Idling still will ofcourse have poor circulation. I really like FMIC and my FD's not a daily driver so I can live with it....Rotory motors do tend to put out quite abit of heat as compared to a normal piston motor.

 

What am I missing here? Why is everyone recommending a V-Mount to this guy. He doesnt say he tracks the car, he wants power and comfort. What Vmount leaves the AC condensor in a better location then a large SMIC? Maybe I am not up to date on the latest and greatest VMICs but a good SMIC will give you what you need. Hell to be honest, we can even get the AC to work pretty decent down here in TN with a Greddy 2 row FMIC and we have a much longer and more humid summer than the guys in the NE.

Basically to recap, if you want simple and effective get a M2 or Pettit large SMIC. They still do amazing at keeping intake temps down. If you want expensive, and more challenging install with almost no extra reward for your situation go with the VMIC. But hell, what I do know about FDs?

 

Lol agree with DJseven. Here in HOT, sunny, ALL year long DR even we get the A/C to blow really cold with a 2row FMIC.

 

i still say v-mount, because it is the best alternative. since this is a single conversion thread.

front mount may still work but not even close to ideal. stock mount may also work but still requires modification to work with a single turbo if it will fit at all.

 

Funny, I guess V-mount is the new trend. lol

I still perfer a FMIC though

 

That's like saying carrying a fire extinguisher is a trend....

V-mounts are becoming more common because they are a superior way of cooling water and intake temps accross multiple environments. As more companies develop kits, and individuals gain experience they become more attainable. It's just like any other technology or method.

I only said that I went Vmount and explained why I chose that route. Honestly, a well sized SMIC would have worked just as well with AI. After much of my research with water injection, I find a large core just isn't needed to put down great numbers with low IAT's. I still really like my Vmount setup, and the added core size is just that much more cooling, with open air flow to both units.