Single Turbo RX-7's Questions about all aspects of single turbo setups.

Air-Air .vs. Air-Water Intercoolers

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Old 05-19-05, 08:26 AM
  #26  
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Once again I understand the thought process. However there is something missing which which I am not able to address. But the daily driver is better than you think and the thermodynamic effect ratio is 4 to 1 as stated. It is not 1to1. I have had air to air..since 97. went to the new design based on performance and intake temps from another persons design.Our experience does not support the raised temp. argument. If you have an air to water design and appliying currently you will understand. Regarding possible problems.Leaks...this happens on every car from every venue...pick a spot on the rotary.Pump goes out...like anything in our car so does our radiater fan,abs,thermostats,
turbo oil...... the pumps we used are designed for use in DAILY driven show room vehicles for mass production.Even should the pump go out read the air to water article. Unless you are hard on it and racing. The repetive argument of air to air is simpler is valid. I USE this system in instructing my students on the No Problem Raceway. the points of contention are stated yet only by those who have only air to air. Water has a much higher specific heat value than air. The 'specific heat value' figure shows how much energy a substance can absorb for each degree temp it rises by. A substance good at absorbing energy has a high specific heat value, while one that gets hot quickly has a low specific heat. Something with a high specific heat value can obviously absorb (and then later get rid of) lots of energy - good for cooling down the air.

In other words, for each increase in temp by one degree, the same mass of water can absorb some four times more energy than air. Or, there can be vastly less flow of water than air to get the same job done.
Old 05-19-05, 09:28 AM
  #27  
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I understand what you are saying.
I understand what specific heat is.

What my point was that I think all of you who are pro-A2W got lucky into having a system that is able to support whatever daily driving you are doing.
What happens when the system is unable to effectively remove the heat from the intake charge?
Let's say that the ambient heat exchanger is too small - the water then ends up sucking up all that heat from the intake charge and is unable to get rid of it.
So you end up with an intake charge that is significantly higher than ambient and inferior to what an A2A would be doing at this point.

This brings up a question...
What are the specs of your system you're running?
Primary heat exchange core dimensions?
Secondary / ambient heat exchange core dimensions?
Content of "water" - straight water / coolant mix / other?
Capacity of the "water"?
Flowrate of the "water" pump?
Hose lengths and diameters?
Position of the heat exchangers?

Sorry for all the questions, but I was just curious about your set-up.
If you don't want to answer all of them, I understand.


-Ted
Old 05-19-05, 02:41 PM
  #28  
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Specific heat has nothing to do with this comparison. You have an infinite ammount of air available therefore, the heat will not cause the air to rise temp like it does to the water, you are not recirculating air. I dont see how you would prefer a system like this for daily driving.
Old 05-19-05, 03:40 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by RETed
What my point was that I think all of you who are pro-A2W got lucky into having a system that is able to support whatever daily driving you are doing.
What happens when the system is unable to effectively remove the heat from the intake charge?

Ted I'm not pro A2W but I do feel it has it's place. In my application I will be designing one for my 20b/FD project. In my part of the country(west Texas) there is no way in hell that I'm going to use a FMIC. 100 degree temps are very common here. My set-up will be designed to efficiantly handle 8psi for dailey driving. That may not seem like a alot of boost but, for a 20b with a properly sized single this will make a ton of power for dailey/track use(easily 400+ rwhp). If I deside to run more boost for shorter duration (1 bar for dragracing) adding ice will do just fine. Bottom line is I'm designing my set-up to fit my application.

If I was to use a 13b for my application, I would need to run more boost to equall the power that my 20b will put down. More boost means higher charge temps. This will make an A2W less effciant in longer duration boosting for track use. Since I'm using a 20b I can better take advantage of an A2W set-up. Once again it all depends on the application.
Old 05-21-05, 06:02 PM
  #30  
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If it helps heat soak I sprayed foam on and around my intercooler to keep under hood temps away from core , then made a sheet aluminum cover to make it look pretty. back 98. RON
Old 05-21-05, 11:01 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by ronbros3
If it helps heat soak I sprayed foam on and around my intercooler to keep under hood temps away from core , then made a sheet aluminum cover to make it look pretty. back 98. RON
That just basically kept the heat in the IC and just made IC in affective. Since there is not air to air transfer.
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