es

I've read at least one post here about someone installing an Aeromotive A1K in the tank of an FD & I have a few questions (yes I searched).

1. How do you mount the pump? standing up or horizontal?
2. Do you remove the baffles?
3. How do you pass heavier gauge wires through the tank & seal the panel?

Input is appreciated, & I'll share my experience when I get some.

Eric.

mmonaco

Yes you want a 8 gauge wire taped from the restrictor to the back of the car! Youll need the extra power! I would not remove the baffles i would try to make it it around them and not sure about what way to mount it but as i already said which ever way you can make it fit is the way youll want to mount it!

rxrotary2_7

PM Scott (lane_change) as i believe he did his own.

es

Thanks for the input guys.

I still need to know how you seal around the 8Ga wire once you pass it through the tank access panel. Any input?

rxrotary2_7

get some of *the right stuff* (product name)

es

Isn't that just RTV? (which doesn't seal well in a straight fuel enviroment)
From permitex.com:
"resists ATF, coolant, oil and other shop fluids. Protects against leaks caused by vibration and thermal expansion. Sensor-safe."

And the "import right stuff":
"OEM specified by Honda, Nissan and Mazda. This product is resistant to powertrain fluids (oil, coolant, and ATF)"

No mention of fuel, & I've seen what RTV does in gas, it stays in liquid state & can get sucked up into the fuel pump...

es

FYI this is the answer from Permitex:
"Depending on the gap, you can try to use either the Form-A-Gasket #2
(#80010= 3oz.tube)
ot the MotoSeal #1 (*29132=2.7oz.tube) I have attached data sheets listing
information on both products.
If you have additional questions contact the Permatex Tech Center
1-866-564-8461 (toll-free).

Tom Dobruck
Marketing Communications"

50tooslow

I am the one who installed lanechange's pump in tank. I first experimented on my own car, I have had the A1000 in tank now for a year and have had no problems. I just used the old power and ground wires, doubled up for the power and then welded a stud on the top and bottom of the sending unit for a new ground. You do not need to run 8ga wire, Aeromotive says 10ga. And if you plan on driving for more than 1/2 hour at a time then they reccomend the fuel pump controller as well. If you decide to tackle the job your self the fuel lines are tricky.
Nick

es

Hello Nick & thanks for chiming in. The way I invision my install is:
A screen type filter on the inlet to the pump, pump mounted to a stainless bracket in the stock location & position ~1" from the bottom of the baffle. -10 from the pump to a bulkhead mounted 90degree -10 fitting, -10 hose to the filter... Stock fuel return from an Aeromotive FPR.

2 10 Ga. wires running through the stock fuel feed elbow sealed with one of the above Permitex sealants.

Sounds nifty? Well the Aeromotive website (tech bulletin #802) is trying to scare my into having a sump welded into the tank:
http://216.242.145.16/products/content_p.phtml?pk=13
"The drawbacks to stock fuel tank retention are more numerous but less obvious. The stock pick-up/pump assembly is restrictive, requiring complete replacement with a fabricated assembly. When using a stock tank with fabricated pickup, unless the fuel level in the tank is ¾ full or higher, the internal well, which the stock pump draws from, is far too small and poorly supplied with fuel from the rest of the tank. Faced with the demand of a large pump, drawing through a fabricated pickup, it has no chance of refilling fast enough to support WOT full engine load. Under low demand, cruise type conditions, the large volume of fuel delivered to the rails is unused and returned. The same fuel, picking up heat from the pump and the rails, is constantly recycled to and from this well, rapidly increasing fuel temperature. Common problems associated with stock fuel tanks and fabricated pickups are pump cavitation, vapor lock, varying fuel pressure, exaggerated pump wear and lean conditions during both low and high loads. Note: Unlike a carbureted engine, any loss of fuel supply at the in-tank- pickup will immediately result in a loss of fuel volume and pressure at the EFI injector resulting in lean conditions and engine damage. "

Now I know how marketing goes, & I know they are trying to sell modified sumped tanks so I was hoping to find some real world feedback.

Where is your pump located? How low have you run the tank? Have you ever expierenced fuel burps?

Thanks again for the info.
Eric.

RX794

Does anyone have any pics of this type of setup?

rxrotary2_7

here are some old pics of when i welded a sump on my stock tank. and a pic of where i mounted my pump. its not in the tank like you are asking, but since you are on the topic of *sumps*... note: the return in that spot is/was done as a temperary thing to get the car started and driving. i know that is not the best place for it...