Manolis_D

iTrader: (2)

Hey,

Well, I finally got the car to where it is operating somewhat reasonably! I am using the manifold I built (thread somewhere around here, can't find the link at the moment!), and a T04B 60-1, .96 undivided rear, 3" exhaust, etc.

I can't get the haltech to control boost properly (it won't run the solenoid at all ), so i'm boosting ~7psi. I took a few datalogs, which show 0-60 to be right around 5.8 or so (OK launch, road a bit wet). AFR is between 10-11:1 (closer to 10 I think)

Next on the list is fixing a few leaks in the IC piping, then figuring out how to get the boost control solenoid working so I can tinker around with 15 psi Looks to be ~250-260HP at 7psi though, which isn't too bad (?) (stock ports, 10:1, etc.)

Questions, comments, and suggestions welcome Thanks so far to everybody who has given input!
-Manolis

HeffBoost

Good job! I was following you mani construction threads. How are you measuring your AFR?

1FastT2

iTrader: (1)

Good to see you got it all up and running, you may want to get a seperate boost controller, the Haltach one doesnt do such a great job.

in2twins

I have the Haltech, and a TO4, The Haltech is not a great way to control boost. If I were you, I would put a 1 bar spring in the wastegate, or buy an EBC. I was running a spring, and switched to an AVCR, what a difference, the spool is even faster than the near instant spool of my TO4. I see full boost (20psi) by 3200rpm. before it was 15psi by 3500 rpm. In addition the car holds the peak boost almost 750rpm longer than w/o the controller. Good luck, Carl Byck

88fc3sw/HX83

Carl,
How much horsepower are you making now?

in2twins

Not Enough I'm up to 22psi, and I'm going to a bigger turbo, Call me tonight, and I'll tell you THE DEAL 707-696-2705 PM'D ya

RX-7-8593

I got my haltech boost control to work. Set the boost limit seting 1 pound past the boost you are shooting for. Go to the first boost map and put all of the bars at 5 precent. Then go to the second boost map and start by seting all of the bars at 50 percent duty cycle. Increase all the bars on the second boost map until you are at target boost. If you go past target boost it will reach the boost limit and stay there so decrase the duty cycle a bit to make it perfect. It took me until about 75 percent duty cycle to get the selnoid to do anything. I started at 9psi and increased the boost to 13psi. Been working great for a couple of months now.

Manolis_D

iTrader: (2)

HeffBoost: I am using the techedge WB kit (www.techedge.com.au), and logging it via the "Spare A/D" input on the Haltech. The input reads .1 V higher than it should, but it seems to be consistent, so that's OK I guess

RX-7-8593: Are you using the stock boost control solenoid? Also, are you using "Wastegate Map 1" or "Wastegate Map 2" as your boost control map in the PWM setup page?. - Thanks

What is the deal with the Haltech's Wastegate maps? The manual states that there is a Max boost map and a Min Boost map, which seems to be incorrect (there is a "Wastegate Map 1" and a "Wastegate Map 2", but no max / min settings). All I have is the option of setting the period, then the max boost, and then whether or not to "Update Engine Data" (what's that do??), then select the wastegate map (either 1 or 2). How do you set it up to work correctly? Do you need to set the first map to xxx% and then the second map to xxx%? I Was under the impression that the two maps were completely unrelated to each other -- is this not the case?

I have removed the solenoid for the time being and put a Bleed Valve in the wastegate line (I "T'ed" into it), but that only lets me raise the boost to about 11.8psi max, (about 6000 rpm), which then drops to 10.5 by redline. It also takes a LONG time to hit 11.8 (the wastegate seems to open at 6 or so). I will be making a ball and spring type MBC over the next couple days -- hopefully that will help it hit full boost faster.

Other than that, any recommendations on EBC's? Anybody have a used one that they would be willing to sell?

Thanks!,
Manolis

PS I'll post some datalogs I took later today!

Carl Byck

Manolis, I have an HKS EVCII that I could sell. I am not using it currently. I am using Apexi AVCRs on my supra, and my seven. The good thing about the EVCII is that it will hold much higher boost than the AVCR. The AVCR is very flexible, with lots of options, but a little complicated to use compared to an EVC. I will check to see that I have all the parts, and I will let you know. The asking price would be 250.00 shipped. Let me know if you are interested. For boost up to 20-22 psi all the current EBCs do a fine job, above that you want an HKS, or a Blitz as the others will not hold boost above 1.8-2 bar9(IMHO). Carl

RX-7-8593

Manolis_D
Im using the haltech boost control selenoid. Ill try and explain this step by step the way I set it up.

1. Go to the PWM setup page and select the turbo waste gate control on the PWM number you have the selenoid wired to.

2. Set the period to 33ms.

3. Set the boost limit 1 pound past the boost you intend to run.

4. Select use wastegate map 2.

5. Go to maps.

6. Go to wastegate map 1 (standard boost map) and set all of your bars at 5% duty cycle. (you will never need to mess with this map)

7. Go to wastegate map 2 (maximum boost map) and set all of the bars at 50% duty cycle.

Go run the car and slowly increase the duty cycle 5% at a time untill you reach your target boost. If you go past your target boost you will hit the boost limit seting and the boost will not go any higher. If this happens lower the bars a bit until you have it right. Like I said before it took me until about 75% duty cycle tell I could get the selenoid to do anything. After that it was very sensitive to minor increases in the duty cycle. Seting it all up is a PITA but it works good if you do not intend to change the boost a lot. Im also thinking of just buying a EBC because its a lot easier to use but im broke and already have the haltech setup. Hope that helps.

Manolis_D

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the rundown!

It looks like the Haltech just doesn't want to control the stock Mazda solenoid -- I tried setting things up that way but it didn't change much

It looks like a bleed valve will have to do for now
-Manolis

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Check Ebay - there are always older electronic boost controllers for a really good value. Old HKS EVC's show up often for $100 or so, and they're a great, simple boost controller.

Apexi AVC-R's show up used around $300-350 - I sold mine a while back for $350, but took like 2 weeks to find a buyer!

Pretty much any EBC is worth it's salt, just stay away from the Profec A - that thing's a mess. Figure out if you want something simple, like an old EVC or a Profec B, or something with a lot of features and flexibility, like the AVC-R or Profec E-01.

Trust me, a good boost controller is worth the investment, especially being able to switch between low and high boost, etc. You'll end up messing with it more than you'd think, so get something you'll like. Read the manuals and do some research to find one that matches what you want out of the car.

Dale