RICE RACING

Hi, yeah I do hold it constant from 5500rpm to 8+K @ load above 180kpa

I should try to increase it a bit above 7.5K to lift up the drop off in torque, may squeeze a couple of 100rpm range out of it?

I was a bit reluctant to try this due to the pump gas, but may try it. I noticed what you are saying in the PFC maps, and have used that principle on other cars I have tuned.

I am just getting soft in my old age

BlackRx7

damn man, thats phat, could you provide pics of that header you made?

HWO

i believe its a technically correct term for the shimming of the front oil thing mod and replacing the factory E Shaft Oil jets with higher flowing ones from a weber carb

RICE RACING

Yes that is the mod, provide constant oil cooling the rotors under all conditions, helps prevent detonation & thermal overload of the rotor/seals/springs hence reducing wear & premature heat related failures.

Dragon

What size jets do you use? and is it a direct replacement or do you have to mod somthing to make them fit...?

Thanks..

RICE RACING

I did some analysis of my data log of my dyno run and it revealed some interesting facts & figures.

When compared to an equivalent run (time, start conditions "temp/pressure") there are quite a few big differences between road power and dyno power.

peak boost (happens at peak torque)
on road 7200 to 7400 rpm
on dyno 6700 to 6900 rpm

Intercooler efficiecy
on road 92%
on dyno 79.5%

Just based on the reduced IC efficiency there is another 20+bhp not seen on the dyno, the peak torque difference is interesting as the time spend on the ramp rate on the dyno matches 100% the time it takes to pull from 2.5k to 8k, I believe the difference here is to do with the increased eff of the IC and also I use a "quasi" ram duct to my air filter on the inlet to the turbo.

Autronic#1

Normally also allows you to run a bit more advance before detonation so helps with power.

Chris

Marcel Burkett

What size jets should be used , would I have to tap new threads and secure the jets with LOCTITE ????, also I plan to use the replasement plug for ther thermal pillet sold by MAZDATRIX and ATKINS , ........ Good Idea ???.

Single7

Would replacing the factory E-shaft oils jets with higher flowing ones and also replacing the thermal pellet, inject too much oil into the combustion chamber? - Tommy

Dragon

The ones in the eccentric shaft that feed oil to the rotor bearings and insides of the rotors to lubricate and cool the rotor there by eliminating hot spots on the rotor that can cause predetonation... They have nothing to do with the oil metering pump and jets that feed oil to the rotor housings...


so back to my unanswered question: What size jets do you use? and is it a direct replacement or do you have to mod somthing to make them fit...?

RICE RACING

Dragon, I use #200 weber air jets in my road car....

Depends on the engine, and the oil pressure you are running etc, allso I tend to use a bit smaller jet because I use water injection, which takes out alot of the heat I am trying to reduce with the increased oil supply to the rotors.

These jets are a simple press fit into the bottom of the "screw" that goes into the crank for each rotor, just remove the ball & spring and install the jet in the bottom of the nut and screw back into the crank.

Marcel Burkett

HEY DRAGON , try to relax a bit ,we were speaking about the thermal pillet located in the front end of the e shaft (which is also held in place by the main front pulley bolt) , not oil metering pump!!!!!!!!.

RICE RACING

Gordon, the pellet in the front of the crank is a device that Mazda installed to cut of oil flow through the rotors (main function) to improve cold start fuel consumption of the rotary, once the oil is hot the pellet opens and shuts of the hole in the end of the crank wich lets most of the oil out in this condition.

What I do is on the std pellet cut of the section with the spring attached and throw it! a small amount of gringing will be required to tidy it up also you remove the little dick that pops out when hot that opens the pellet (do this by putting it in hot water, then get pliers and rip it out), then you simply install a spacer which is the same length as the "dick" wich fits between the front nut and the crank (inside it) this keeps the pellet permanently open hence closing of the oil bypass in the front of the crank......very easy modification.

Not worth the grief of a failure just to save a little bit of fuel when the oil is cold !!!, any thermal pellets in the oiling system I make a point of removing them or making them open all the time, On fist gen oil coolers there is a similar pellet which bypasses to cooler when the oil is cold, hae known these to fail as well.

NOTE do not remove the pellet all together as I have know of people doing this! you simply must make it open all the time hence blocking of the oil bypass.

regards

Pete

Dragon

Duh! if you look at my post I'm answering a question from anouther member... the oil metering pump system is what feeds oil to the rotor housing and there for the combustion area and is a completly diffrent system than what every one is talking about and there for changing the pellet and jet sizes will have no effect on what he was asking about... I was letting him know this fact... perhaps you should relax a bit..

and Rice Racing, thanks for the info..

Dragon

Sounds easy, I'm assuming you don't reinstall the ball and spring correct..?

RICE RACING

correct !

Marcel Burkett

I stand corrected ....... peace.

Dragon

Single7

Hi Dragon,

Sorry about my question, I was getting the two things mixed up - too many late nights at work and too much coffee. But mazdacomp does sell smaller oil jets for the e-shaft (I think something like $4-6 a piece - it's been a while since I bought them) and I know Atkin and Mazdatrix sells the e-shaft thermal pellet (around $15 bucks). So these modifications only allow oil to be "released" earlier for the bearings during cold startups? Still trying to learn, so please bare with me .

peejay

The thermal pellet eliminator reverts the E-shaft to '85-earlier oiling - full flow to the rotors all the time, hot or cold. Makes it warm up slower but it's one less thing to go wrong (and if something CAN go wrong, then sooner or later it WILL)

When you modify the oil sprayers with the Weber jets, you're also eliminating a small check valve. The end result is actually more oil sprayed into the cavities in the rotor. The oil sprayed in there is a very large chucnk (30-40%) of the engine's cooling system, since there is no way to cool the rotors with coolant - they never come into contact with the coolant-filled housings the way that pistons transfer heat away through the cylinder walls.

Dragon

No problem, that's why the forum is here... To ask questions, learn, and give information to all the other RX-7 freaks out there...

cool_koo

nice... I wish my car could make half that =)

Marcel Burkett

Hey rice , some info on race clearancing of the rotors and for the WEBER jet mod. would a #250- 300 work?. Also , I know you say to go as wide as possible with the exhaust port by removing the sleeve , but what if I keep the sleeve in place but open up the inside (combustion chamber) of the port and funnel it out to the manifold,how well do you think this would this would work with a 1.15a/r housing (T66) , 2" separated runners (exh. manifold) , 3.5" down pipe till cat. location (no cat.) , 3" from there back with a free flow TANABE G POWER MEDALION exh. barrel?.

surfpac

from Rice

Gentlemen,
Pardon my ignorance here, but wouldn't using a larger jet size allow more oil to flow to the rotors? Am I missing something? I'm not ME's (mechanical engineers) like some of you here, I'm just an IE (industrial, not "imaginary). I look for the most efficient way

surfpac

from Rice

Sorry, I forgot include this in the above quote