400rwhp vs traction vs tires size
#26
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Originally Posted by ryan1
I have 450hp in an fd, running kuhmo mx 255/40/17. I have almost no traction problems in any gear.
#27
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oooh oooooh oooh!
I can break loose on most shifts, even with 285's out back and I dont even have 400hp at the crank... but I do have a lot of torque!
remember that suspension settings and camber play a huge role in traction, so does driving style and the weather conditions.
I can break loose on most shifts, even with 285's out back and I dont even have 400hp at the crank... but I do have a lot of torque!
remember that suspension settings and camber play a huge role in traction, so does driving style and the weather conditions.
#28
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Right now I'm running stock size 205/55-16 all seasons on my fc with 20 psi in them. I have an ls1 with just exhaust and probably low 300s at the wheels. 1st gear loses a little traction but it will stay strait as long as I'm somewhat smooth with the throttle. 2nd will just chrip quick when I roll on it, but once I get going it fine...same with 3rd. I can chrip the tires (like say 4th at 40mph 1800rpm) if I snap the throttle open really fast. Powershifting=sideways if your not careful.
Overall I'd say its really not as bad as I thought it would be...I have some 17x8s waiting on 225/45s and 245/45s in back and I'll probably get a camber link and set my rear camber as close to 0 as I can get it.
I was going to get rt-615s for tires, even though they may not be best for strait traction(stiff sidewall). I'm still guessing it will be fine when I'm n/a as long as I am at least a little careful...with nitrous I'll probably have a 1st gear lockout, and just try to feather it in 2nd...hopefully 3rd will grip, but we'll see...
Overall I'd say its really not as bad as I thought it would be...I have some 17x8s waiting on 225/45s and 245/45s in back and I'll probably get a camber link and set my rear camber as close to 0 as I can get it.
I was going to get rt-615s for tires, even though they may not be best for strait traction(stiff sidewall). I'm still guessing it will be fine when I'm n/a as long as I am at least a little careful...with nitrous I'll probably have a 1st gear lockout, and just try to feather it in 2nd...hopefully 3rd will grip, but we'll see...
#29
Rotary Motoring
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I think it also depends on where your motor/turbo set-up makes peak torque when talking about traction problems in 1st-3rd gears.
Higher RPM torque peak means more torque multiplication at the wheels.
Haven't hit the dyno yet, but looking at my fuel map there is a HUGE jump between 4,500 and 5,000rpm and it peaks at 6,500 holds steady to 7,000 and slowly drops off to 8,500rpm.
When the tach hits that 5,000 to 6,500rpm range the car gets all sidways in 1st-3rd or 1st-4th depending on what brand max perf summer tires and road conditions.
I only run 225/50-16 on 8" rim because I have done stagger and hated the understeer. So that is a traction limiting factor.
Now I have 225/50-16 RA-1 (100 treadwear) and it only loses total traction in 1st at 5,000rpm and holds 2nd pretty good!
Cosmo engine is set up for low peak torque to move a heavy luxo car. A big turbo will help shift that some, but different intake and porting will really help.
Lots of factors really.
Higher RPM torque peak means more torque multiplication at the wheels.
Haven't hit the dyno yet, but looking at my fuel map there is a HUGE jump between 4,500 and 5,000rpm and it peaks at 6,500 holds steady to 7,000 and slowly drops off to 8,500rpm.
When the tach hits that 5,000 to 6,500rpm range the car gets all sidways in 1st-3rd or 1st-4th depending on what brand max perf summer tires and road conditions.
I only run 225/50-16 on 8" rim because I have done stagger and hated the understeer. So that is a traction limiting factor.
Now I have 225/50-16 RA-1 (100 treadwear) and it only loses total traction in 1st at 5,000rpm and holds 2nd pretty good!
Cosmo engine is set up for low peak torque to move a heavy luxo car. A big turbo will help shift that some, but different intake and porting will really help.
Lots of factors really.
#30
I run the MX's as well, they are great street tires for the price...spins first, second and hooks and goes in third...275/40/17 in rear...price was 148 each for the rears, 235/45/17 were like 128 each. This is at 27 lbs boost, but I am not dumping or banging the gears, just roll ons
#37
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Originally Posted by matty
they say 255's dont fit
-dj
#38
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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255/50s will fit in the rear, I have run some drag radials in that size in the past. It really pushes up the rear of the car, gives it that old school muscle car look
#39
Ding King
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
255/50s will fit in the rear, I have run some drag radials in that size in the past. It really pushes up the rear of the car, gives it that old school muscle car look
Last edited by ROTARYFDTT; 11-05-06 at 02:57 AM.
#40
In the burnout box...
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maybe i'll try the 255's in the rear and the 245 in the front... what do you think? im a r85 man. stock ports made 402 whp i got 3mm street port and i couple other changes with the new motor so i want some solid STREET traction. also does anyone have an kumho MX tire experience? im pretty much asking for everyones advice here. im trying to get rid of the fancy 18 inch gram lights even though they look pretty sweet
#41
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Originally Posted by ROTARYFDTT
I hear ya, I like the stance it gives the car. I'm running 245 nitto DRs, no real issues with traction aside from 1st gear. Although the car will walk 2nd if the tires are cold or in colder weather. It'll bark 3rd but it pretty much dead hooks.
#42
Ding King
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I do get traction, don't forget to take my location into account. The last few weeks in October were the only time the car would walk 2nd gear, again I attribute that to the cold weather. Here's a video thats a good example of what I was talking about for further clarification.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/5...1f012655c1.htm
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/5...1f012655c1.htm
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