MiniRotary

I'm new to the building performance rotaries(I have experience in rebuilding 13B engines for some friends). The car I'm building right now is a 1992 FD RX7 Type R (RHD). I had a decent thought of what would be a good way to make 400bhp/350whp but I would like your guys' advice. I was thinking at first a regular streetport 13B-RE or REW with a twin scroll turbo setup. Again, not trying to make massive numbers on a dyno(only around 400/350) but I would like to eliminate as much turbo lag as possible. Basically, my question is, with this kind of setup, what do you guys recommend for turbo brand and size, Intercooler, internal or external wastegates, fuel injectors, fuel pump, ignition system, ecu(haltech or power fc), and the other knickknacks(even proper side seal clearancing for the right compression for turbo setups). Im planning to keep the OMP as well so I dont need to premix as much. Not looking to make a racecar, just a really really really fun daily. Thanks guys!

TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

Leave it stock. Don't ruin an fd.

Maybe do some searching before asking questions.

silverTRD

iTrader: (36)

EFR7670 internal wastegate, would be a fun reliable car.

Templeton

iTrader: (10)

Stick with the REW, swapping to an RE would be a lot of work for no gain.
A streetport paired with BNR twins run sequential would be a great way to make your HP goal with very little lag.
fuel system: 1000cc injectors or greater. aftermarket rails, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, walboro 255LPH or better fuel pump.
ignition: 9 heat range spark plugs all around, stock coils, and an hks twin power ignition amplifier.
intercooler: An upgraded stock mount intercooler such as the pettit Cool charge system.
ECU: PFC, Haltech, andAdaptronic are all good options, but realistically whatever ECU your tuner is most familiar with is your best choice.
PLUS Water/Methanol injection to help keep it safe.

If you're happy with a little less power, ~<350RWHP it can be done on stock ports, stock twins(other than wastegate porting), and less fuel system upgrades.

Gilgamesh

REW street port if thats what you have currently. side seal clearance should be within factory spec.
turbo brand and size, SXE362 for budget, EFR for bigger budgets
Intercooler, V- mount
internal or external wastegates, depends on turbo choice, but if you someday want 600+ external wastegates is hard to beat (gleaseman manifold)
fuel injectors, injector dynamics 5,000CC total capacity or more. (id1000ish primary, ID1750+ for secondary)
fuel pump, 485lph for now
ignition system, stock with twin power or IGN1A's
ecu(haltech or power fc) PFC if its free , Haltech if your spending 1k+

Slides

If you are happy with 350-400 one of the larger sxe200 turbos will do that and have a lower boost threshold. There are some nice drop in lift pump/surge tank large pump setups now, better than chopping things up or having to redo the charcoal cannister if yours is rear mount like s8.

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

http://turbosource.com/products/seri...fd3s-400hp-kit

WANKfactor

iTrader: (1)

.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

My advice varies with what kind of FD you are starting with.

If you have a complete well running well maintained FD then I would keep it sequential twin turbo and shoot for the lower 350rwhp.
Later Y-pipe and a big stock mount IC or a front mount kit that relocates the radiator vertically behind the IC, whichever is your preference. Intake. Exhaust.
If you go with just an upgraded 1300cc injector (EV14) and ROM tune with a good intank pump your are covered to 350+rwhp and retain stock safety features like CEL and actual knock control.

If you have a bad engine FD (a great way to start a project btw) or one that is just a mess under the hood already- single turbo is a great way to simplify the engine bay to make it easier to work on and diagnose issues. Stand alone ECU really make the car a project car though. Not only are many issues going to lead back to the ECU, but you always have the ability to upgrade your engine/boost/components and re-tune- so you stay in "shark mode" looking for the next upgrade.

I used EFR 7670 on my TII after 13 years of using the same sized journal bearing 60-1 and the car was a completely different animal.
If you are going single turbo and can swing an EFR on a rotary do it!

MiniRotary

Thank you all for the replies and all your rotary wisdom! Very much appreciated! I will do my research and pick out the best build off of all your advice! As for additional info and advice, it is a 92 Efini RX7 Type R 2+2 straight from Japan. Serial No. FD3S103030, if anyone wants to decipher it. Lol. 71k miles on engine and trans. Engine runs strong and has good throttle response. It looks as if the owner in Japan took very good care of the vehicle and went for a budget tuner build( lowering springs, Apexi N1 muffler, HKS bov, HKS pod filters, NRG steering wheel and adapter, a short shifter and an aftermarket off brand aluminum radiator). Anyways, thanks again for all the help!