3 Rotor - T72 (640rwhp @13psi) Chance to change?
#51
Hey, where did my $$$ go?
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Originally Posted by Wargasm
Here's the way I see it... and no, I don't have a simple answer
1 - Most people agree that every 10 rwhp on the dyno is around 1 lb/min of air. so you're -currently- flowing around 61 lbs/min of air at 6100 rpm. Your engine probably would like MORE AIR as you can see because the hp is flatlining. (we're assuming ignition advance and so on are within a reasonable range and are not a problem).
Brian (Man of many ideas, but few answers )
1 - Most people agree that every 10 rwhp on the dyno is around 1 lb/min of air. so you're -currently- flowing around 61 lbs/min of air at 6100 rpm. Your engine probably would like MORE AIR as you can see because the hp is flatlining. (we're assuming ignition advance and so on are within a reasonable range and are not a problem).
Brian (Man of many ideas, but few answers )
That rule is thumb about 1lb/min = 10 is engine HP not rwhp, its also for piston engines not rotary. You can find that formula plastered all kind of hot rod sites, ect. If you look here http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...bo/index2.html over to the right you'll see compressor maps and under them you'll see engine hp potential for pisont engines....they just use the lb/min x 10 rule of thumb.
taking that into consideration if you figured it was 1lb = 10 at the engine, which is only 8.5 at the wheels for a manual, then subtract another 10% for it being a rotary instead of a piston engine you end up with 1lb/min = 7.65 rwhp for a rotary. This would mean that 61lbs/min = 466rwhp and 82lbs/min = 627rwhp which is also what Chris Andersons formula came up with.
Stephen
Last edited by SPOautos; 08-31-04 at 06:49 PM.
#52
Weird Cat Man
A-ha! So my formula may not be so good after all... Taking that into account, maybe you need to just bail out entirely on the T72 and go for something a lot bigger if you want to see what the engine will do.... ?
I wish I had this problem Not a bad one to have hehe.
I wish I had this problem Not a bad one to have hehe.
#54
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I woluld up the turbine wheels' size and keep the a/r the same . This would help keep the backpressure down and the HP up and maintain the powerband in the same range.
#56
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After talking to Justin at Innovative, it looks like I might go with a T76 "R" trim, same exhaust housing. The front compressor cover will be the same, but I will loose a little bit of efficency there. But overall, it should be a pretty big step.
OLD: T72 "Q" Trim, 1.32 AR -- Dual Ball Bearing
NEW: T76 "R" Trim, 1.32 AR -- Dual Ball Bearing
I am kind of nervious now.
OLD: T72 "Q" Trim, 1.32 AR -- Dual Ball Bearing
NEW: T76 "R" Trim, 1.32 AR -- Dual Ball Bearing
I am kind of nervious now.
#57
R Trim... Is that still considered the highest flowing T4 turbine wheel? Your new turbo will lag more but it will kick your *** from 6k rpm to redline. I can see why you're kind of nervous you're about to jump a good amount of rwhp. Have fun with your new set up man.
I just talked to Justin the other day, because I'm shopping around for a new turbo for my next set up. It is fun to squeeze out 600 rwhp out of daily driven 2 rotor, I just want to see what I can get out of a three rotor. So your new turbo is the GT76 dual ceramic ball bearing, when I go three rotor I'm thinking about going GT80 dual ceramic ball bearing but with an X Trim turbine wheel. I would really appreciate it if you could post new dyno numbers and talk about the response after you get it retuned. Best of luck bro, hope everything works out perfect.
Alex
I just talked to Justin the other day, because I'm shopping around for a new turbo for my next set up. It is fun to squeeze out 600 rwhp out of daily driven 2 rotor, I just want to see what I can get out of a three rotor. So your new turbo is the GT76 dual ceramic ball bearing, when I go three rotor I'm thinking about going GT80 dual ceramic ball bearing but with an X Trim turbine wheel. I would really appreciate it if you could post new dyno numbers and talk about the response after you get it retuned. Best of luck bro, hope everything works out perfect.
Alex
#58
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Justin mentioned the GT80 a few times in the conversation, but my main limitation is the fitment of the turbo in the car. The manifold, downpipe, etc has already been designed for this turbo. I don't want to re-engineer everything for a bigger turbo.
So, the T76 will work. The front compressor housing is a little smaller (since I will still use the T72 one) than what is recomended, but it will work.
I am also nervious because the car was awesome before with the throttle response, and horsepower that it made. I mapped out the two compressor maps with the airflow from the dyno rwhp numbers converted to airflow. The first picture, the T72 compressor, are the RPM/RWHP points I pulled from the graph in the following RWHP range:
195rwhp, 300rwhp, 400rwhp, 500rwhp, 560rwhp, 600rwhp, 628.1rwhp.
I applied both airflow values for those rwhp #'s across the board. If I make more rwhp on the T76 map, you could just imagine the blue line extending further right.
T72:
and the T76:
So, the T76 will work. The front compressor housing is a little smaller (since I will still use the T72 one) than what is recomended, but it will work.
I am also nervious because the car was awesome before with the throttle response, and horsepower that it made. I mapped out the two compressor maps with the airflow from the dyno rwhp numbers converted to airflow. The first picture, the T72 compressor, are the RPM/RWHP points I pulled from the graph in the following RWHP range:
195rwhp, 300rwhp, 400rwhp, 500rwhp, 560rwhp, 600rwhp, 628.1rwhp.
I applied both airflow values for those rwhp #'s across the board. If I make more rwhp on the T76 map, you could just imagine the blue line extending further right.
T72:
and the T76:
#60
Need more sleep
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Don't forget to use the actual compressor outlet pressure to do your ratios, at 60+ flowrate there is likely 2+ psi drop from the turbo to your intake manifold pressure sensor. The ratio is likely around 2.1 instead of 1.9 when you read 13.6 psi boost at the motor.
That motor is gonna need more fuel and I suspect you won't be able to put enough tire on the car to drive it on the street at full throttle! 4th gear power slides are in your future!
That motor is gonna need more fuel and I suspect you won't be able to put enough tire on the car to drive it on the street at full throttle! 4th gear power slides are in your future!
#61
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Originally Posted by twokrx7
Don't forget to use the actual compressor outlet pressure to do your ratios, at 60+ flowrate there is likely 2+ psi drop from the turbo to your intake manifold pressure sensor. The ratio is likely around 2.1 instead of 1.9 when you read 13.6 psi boost at the motor.
That motor is gonna need more fuel and I suspect you won't be able to put enough tire on the car to drive it on the street at full throttle! 4th gear power slides are in your future!
That motor is gonna need more fuel and I suspect you won't be able to put enough tire on the car to drive it on the street at full throttle! 4th gear power slides are in your future!
I should have the fuel setup:
#63
Your fuel is good enough (2 A100's nice)... Just to consider for future projects. My current fuel set up works great. I don't know if you guys know what a surge tank is? But, it acts as a fuel cell keeping the pressure constant. I have a supra fuel pump running into the surge tank which helps keep the fuel pressure constant. The size is between 3 to 5 gallons (guesstimating), I have a aeromotive Tsunami taken the fuel from in 8an steel braided fuel lines. This fuel set up is supposedly good for about 700 to 750 rwhp, without dropping fuel pressure. For a 20B I'm thinking of doing a similiar set up only this time having a 2 supra fuel pumps, a larger surge tank, and 2 Tsunami's which should be enough to reach 1200 rwhp maybe even higher. You guys may not want to use a surge tank set up, because you may not feel secure with it perhaps your not familiar with it. Just thought I toss it out there to are you guys take on it.
Alex
Alex
Last edited by FC Alex; 09-03-04 at 09:14 PM.
#65
Originally Posted by twokrx7
I have no idea what your pressure drop is, need to measure it if you wanna know.
I'd say you got fuel for a few more hp.
I'd say you got fuel for a few more hp.
-Max
#68
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
Is there a write up on your car anywhere.. I'd like to see what size injectors, computer etc you have on the car.. I'm currently running a T76 a/r .96 q trim on my stock ported 20B, but I have a 1.3 ar exaust housing waiting in the trunk of my car for my other 20B side ported engine I built recently... maybe I'll try to go out and have it dyno'd at one of the shops here in the next week to see what it's doing at it's current 15psi boost level.. I know it has enough power that a misshift from second to 5th will tear the counter shaft on the tranny in half..
Last edited by Dragon; 09-10-04 at 08:47 AM.
#69
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I just got off the phone with Justin from Innovative, and found out the turbo burned itself up. We are rebuilding it with a T76 compressor. Sticking with a Q trim, and all other items.
#70
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Thanks for all the help in this thread. The final decision has been made:
T76, "Q" trim (due to street driving), 1.32 AR, Dual Ballbearings. The previous turbo burned up inside; and all the ballbearings were toasted.
ITS is now sponsoring my car, so you will definately see some event 1/4 numbers in the close future.
T76, "Q" trim (due to street driving), 1.32 AR, Dual Ballbearings. The previous turbo burned up inside; and all the ballbearings were toasted.
ITS is now sponsoring my car, so you will definately see some event 1/4 numbers in the close future.
#72
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Originally Posted by 20B 3rd Gen
Good choice Mike, I too have a T76 but with a 1.15 (stock motor) once I get my Microtec install'd and tune we can compare maps
#73
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woah.................. just a quick word of advice, before you put one more mile on your car, rewire the fuel pumps. zip tieing the power wire to a steel braided fuel line is very very bad. steel braided lines are very abrasive and will eventualy rub a hole in your wires shield, and youl be lucky to get out of the car before it burns to the ground. I had a customer with a supra, who got cheap and instead of letting me install his SX fuel pump, did it himself, and zip tied the wire to the braided line. a few months later he was driving down the freeway and his car stalled (the wire burned a hole in the rubber underneath the steel braid and the car dident have enough fuel pressure to continue to run) he pulled over and got out of the car, tried to grab his fire ex. but the whole car was engulfed in flames seconds later. then he stood on the side of the freeway and watched $30,000 of
un-insured car burn to the ground.........
Michael
www.techtrixmotorsports.com
un-insured car burn to the ground.........
Michael
www.techtrixmotorsports.com
#75
NorCal 7's Co-founder
Red, good luck with that monster!!
To everyone else, thanks for filling this thread with so much useful info! My brain kinda hurts now, but I'm glad that I read all of this. It really helps with my plans!
Zach
To everyone else, thanks for filling this thread with so much useful info! My brain kinda hurts now, but I'm glad that I read all of this. It really helps with my plans!
Zach