I think I have 38 psi at idle.......

I have a stock fpr but I also question my gauges since they are prosport, and I haven't compared them to others.

 

I don't see how fuel pressure can be the problem. Only if the fuel pressure was creating overly rich air/fuel ratio's. If that's the case then tuning it leaner should work just fine. I run close to 50 psi base pressure and have no trouble tuning idle and cruise to proper 13.5 - 16:1 afr's.

 

To be honest I have to verify the fp but it's a standard aeromotive 1:1 fuel pressure regulator.

 

So the cars been on hold for quite a while and I just went out today to look at different things that could be causing my issue and I found that on the middle iron pointed towards the firewall was a hole where the breather nipple used to be that someone had drilled and tapped and then put a plug in. I'm guessing since there was no way for the middle iron to vent the crank case pressure it was causing my fuel to push past the oil seals and cause my fuel in the oil problem. any thoughts?

 

which irons are these? what series, and is it usdm or jdm?

 

Put in some stock 550 primaries and use ID 2000 for secondaries.

95% of the time you will be running on the primaries. This will make the car way more enjoyable to drive.

Get it to idle at least 13.0 AFR, cruise at 16.0 AFR , light transitions at 13.5-14.0.

Barry

 

I still haven't heard anything about what this car is tuned to? I don't care how many breathers are on the irons or how low the fuel pressure is. If the car is running at say 10:1 at idle and cruise you WILL have fuel in the oil. First thing to check is how rich it is. If it's running at a decent AFR then move on to other things. Forget about fuel pressure, forget about injector size. NONE of this matter if your air fuel ratios are correct. If it turns out you're running too rich and tuning won't lean it out, then and only then should fuel pressure or injectors or any of that other garbage start being looked into.

 

Well the car has been tuned quite a few times by well known tuners in Florida and what not and while yes it is in the 10's when I get into it at 20psi, driving around normally I'm in the 13's so I don't think it's too much gas. Besides when I mean gas in the oil I'm saying about a quart over the fill mark within less than a week of driving the car. Lots of gas!!!

arghx, these irons are from a series 5 tII with the beefed up rear dowl land. I don't know if it's usdm or jdm irons, didn't know there was a difference.

Barry, I'm not sure if the ID2000 injectors work on a microtech lt10...

 

Essentially all these cars have excessive fuel dilution of the oil unless you're crusing around all day at 14s/15s AFR - see my UOA (used oil analysis) thread in the third gen section. My advice it get your oil tested and run a higher viscosity to offset the thinning effects of fuel dilution.

 

remove the threaded plug. From what I've seen (and I'm not sure how it varies), the s4 have a nipple on the iron. the s5 just have an empty hole, or at least the JDM ones I've seen do. I've never looked closely at USDM s5 irons (they are very rare), so I'm not sure if they are different or not. When I converted from s4 to s5 irons I tapped the iron to 1/8 NPT and routed it to a catch can.



the diagram is a little busy (i posted it in another thread to show the routing I did) but you can see the brass fitting and the greenish text.

I have very little blowby oil coming from my engine. I run about 16psi. In 3200 miles I've burned through a couple quarts of oil through OMP consumption but only about a tablespoon worth of oil was in the catch can. A lot of it also has to do with the clearances and condition of the engine internals.

 

Holy rip, screw that noise...yet another reason to pre-mix

 

Series 3 and Series 4 13B OMP systems have 4 oil injectors and are completely mechanical. They consume far more oil than the later electronic ones. They're also the most reliable OMP systems. Driving the car hard doesn't help oil consumption either. But I'd rather top off oil than premix, and I change the oil frequently so I'm not that worried about "diry engine oil" being in the combustion chamber.

 

thanks for the diagram man, yeah that's the place that had the plug in it. I took it out sunday and will be adding a nipple to it this weekend as well as sending my 1600's off just to make sure they are not leaking or anything crazy like that which I don't think they are or I'd be flooding and that is not a problem. The engine internals are all brand spanking new including the housings which have less than 1000 miles on them. Of course they can't look that great being that the lubrication has been so diluted with gas but that's neither here nor there. Now did I hear right that 3rd gen's have a bad problem with this because they don't have a breather on the middle iron at all? If this is true then this had to be my problem...

 

3rd gen's don't have a breather on the iron. One thing people do on single turbo cars is tap the rear turbo oil drain blockoff plate and use that.

 

You don't know how diluted it is until you get it analyzed - I'm not sure why people are so resistant to doing this, it's a $25 test at Blackstone. Holding a dipstick up to your nose is not quantitative analysis. Furthermore, essentially all of these engines will have some level of fuel dilution, because they all run pig rich under full boost.

 

Its very simple. I have resolved this issue on many cars and unless the engine is built by an idiot its not the engine causing your problem.
Tune can effect this but unless its excessively rich (low 10s high 9s ) this isnt your issue either.

You need BIG BREATHERS. Once your making more power then standard you need bigger breathers to accomodate. I have two -12 breathers on my 700rwhp rx7. One down the bottom of my filler neck and one up the top into a aluminium catch can with a 2 inch filer on it.

This eliminated ALL BLOW by on my rx7. If this does not. Then you need a larger capacity sump which has more room to breath.

 

If you ever look at big hp Supras they also use -12 breathers. Do you have any pics of your setup? I'm surprised having two breathers in the same basic location (filler neck) worked that well.

 

Really as long as nothing abstructs the breather to the pan location shouldn't matter too much. Like many 3rd gen road racers were having issues on long left hand turns because the oil made it's way up the side of the filler neck, blocked the breather holes and under boost just poured into the catch can. With street cars and straight line cars the breather would stay clear.

 

I started reading this when doing searches yesterday, not sure you can do this with a series 5 tII motor being that there is no rear oil return block off plate, lol.

Well you are right and a while back I got a test kit from blackstone but never sent it in for some reason. I can tell you though putting 4 quarts of 20w50 in and then a week later having a quart over and it smelling more like gas than oil and it being thin enough to drip off the stick I can tell you I don't need an analysis done to tell me it's gas in the oil.

This must be the problem because if I only had the one stock sized breather at the oil filler tube and the other one blocked off than there was simply not enough breathing going on. You're right, I need to do this asap! I remember you saying this earlier. I'm going to get a catch can today with large ports and I'll hook this up asap. This would make sense, all the Puerto Rican drag racing cars I've seen up close all have these huge breathers attached to a nice catch can and this would be the reason why.

 

So which would be best....

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/52200...oductId=760016

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/52203...oductId=760016

I'm figuring -10AN house should be large enough for my setup...

 

actually screw all that mess I'll just do the barb fittings to a breather filter. Not sure I'll go 2" but I'll at least go 1.5". What fittings did you use?

 

It doesn't necessarily take low 10s to see fuel dilution of oil. You claim blow-by has been eliminated in your race car, but what about fuel dilution? Have you had the oil analyzed? I suppose in a race car you don't really care how long the oil lasts because it's going to get dumped after every race anyway.

 

First off, 5-10% fuel diltuion in these cars is fairly common. What seems to cause it is rich (i.e. low 11s) fuel mixtures being pushed past the oil control rings under boost. Oil "blow-by" and/or insufficient crankcase venting is most likely NOT the primary driver of this problem - this entire thread seems to have side tracked down that rabbit trail, for whatever reason

 

How would you propose he ameliorate fuel dilution (if you are in fact suggesting that)? Just about every car with a factory turbo runs between 10:1 and 11:1 at WOT, and the newest crop of turbo piston engines are richer than that. But they also run very tight ring gaps and piston-to-wall clearance. Some level of dilution for modified turbo rotaries seems inevitable.

 

no more rice. My Brad pen oil has been in my car for a good 6 months now and i do it every 5000 ks or 6 months and it comes out almost like new everytime.

yes the oil does get some fuel in it but i have never seen it get to a point which seemed to have caused any damage, i have been going now for a good while on the power level im at 700rwhp+ so thats as much as i can give you.