The End All, Be All FC3S Electric Fan?
I don't understand why people go to all the trouble of wiring up a manual switch instead of just getting a thermostat. Are they really that hard to find? Heck give me a breadboard and a couple parts and I can build you one in an hour (faster with practice I'll bet). Or maybe I could make something a little cleaner and make a business out of it.
Just keep an eye on your damm temps no matter what you do!
Also I am gonna find some type of alarm for the car when it hits 200F or higher I want to hear an alarm or something, for times when you do not keep your eye on the temp gauge all the time.
Also I am gonna find some type of alarm for the car when it hits 200F or higher I want to hear an alarm or something, for times when you do not keep your eye on the temp gauge all the time.
I have thought about installing a alarm or LED light, Im pretty sure my Wolf could trigger it.
The alarms are easy, boats have them for practically everything, simple and cheap
The alarms are easy, boats have them for practically everything, simple and cheap
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 7,855
Likes: 517
From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
I don't understand why people go to all the trouble of wiring up a manual switch instead of just getting a thermostat. Are they really that hard to find? Heck give me a breadboard and a couple parts and I can build you one in an hour (faster with practice I'll bet). Or maybe I could make something a little cleaner and make a business out of it.
Hooked up my buddy's S5 Turbo with a Koyo and Black Magic fan recently.
Black magic factory thermostatic control failed. (Circuit board overheated, terminal broke off.)
Got an electronic controller from Advance Auto. The internals were bad. Relay was good, but only getting 2 volts to the coil.
Manual switch is nice when you need it.
Because sometimes electronic thermostatically controlled units fail.
Hooked up my buddy's S5 Turbo with a Koyo and Black Magic fan recently.
Black magic factory thermostatic control failed. (Circuit board overheated, terminal broke off.)
Got an electronic controller from Advance Auto. The internals were bad. Relay was good, but only getting 2 volts to the coil.
Manual switch is nice when you need it.
Hooked up my buddy's S5 Turbo with a Koyo and Black Magic fan recently.
Black magic factory thermostatic control failed. (Circuit board overheated, terminal broke off.)
Got an electronic controller from Advance Auto. The internals were bad. Relay was good, but only getting 2 volts to the coil.
Manual switch is nice when you need it.
CS rad and CS shroud. just wish they didnt do it in all FG though
I think you'd have had better luck with some OEM parts.
They routinely engineer systems that last for years...the junkyard is full of 'em.
See above.
They routinely engineer systems that last for years...the junkyard is full of 'em.
See above.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,785
Likes: 30
From: And the horse he rode in on...
Has anyone put an ammeter on this fan to determine the high-speed and the low-speed amp draw? And also need to know the much feared 'start-up spike'?
Just curious. Lots of guys jumping on to this fan here. It is obviously a serious fan at 18". We saw the same thing with the Taurus fan, then the bloom was off the rose when everyone realized the S4 charging system was not up to the task and the S5 was marginal at best. Rumors still swirl about the 'massive' current draw and the huge 'start-up spike'.
Numbers, not anecdotes. I put the Taurus rumors to bed with actual numbers. https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=28 Someone needs to do this for the Villiage/Quest fan.
Just curious. Lots of guys jumping on to this fan here. It is obviously a serious fan at 18". We saw the same thing with the Taurus fan, then the bloom was off the rose when everyone realized the S4 charging system was not up to the task and the S5 was marginal at best. Rumors still swirl about the 'massive' current draw and the huge 'start-up spike'.
Numbers, not anecdotes. I put the Taurus rumors to bed with actual numbers. https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=28 Someone needs to do this for the Villiage/Quest fan.
Jack- I think the condition and age of the fan will also determine how bad this initial draw really is.
I ordered a new fan and did not like the size of the motor, then actually went with a super clean used OEM and was impressed with the size of the motor, then someone crapped in my corn flakes and said the new motors were more efficient and did not have to be as large.
I still have not put this fan to the test, but I was not crazy with how the Taurus fan fit over the Koyo alum. radiator
I ordered a new fan and did not like the size of the motor, then actually went with a super clean used OEM and was impressed with the size of the motor, then someone crapped in my corn flakes and said the new motors were more efficient and did not have to be as large.
I still have not put this fan to the test, but I was not crazy with how the Taurus fan fit over the Koyo alum. radiator
Looking at parts. Chips sure are sensitive. Is it safe to assume that the temperatures under the hood will not exceed 160 degrees? Otherwise the electronics would have to be mounted somewhere safe.
EDIT: Wow do these things really sell for $70? I'm pretty sure I can beat that price. I can throw on a manual switch too lol.
EDIT: Wow do these things really sell for $70? I'm pretty sure I can beat that price. I can throw on a manual switch too lol.
just picked one of these up at the junkyard along with the parts from the 2 speed taurus wiring parts (volvo relay and vw thermoswitch.
I'm still confused on how you are mounting this to the radiator. I haven't seen any bolts in the pictures
I'm still confused on how you are mounting this to the radiator. I haven't seen any bolts in the pictures
Thread Starter
BDC Motorsports
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,667
Likes: 6
From: Grand Prairie, TX
B
got it installed and mounted. Used zip ties through the side tabs where the old shroud mounted. Used foam to seal the sides and wired it to the two speed volvo relay. always on low speed when car is on and then a switch for the high speed. Drove it around tonight (cool around 60 degrees) and it worked fine on low speed. This fan pulls so much air on low it started spinning my ac pusher fan (the one that comes on turbos and automatics)
The "always ON" low speed fan is a bad idea for several reasons:
-The fan pulls a fair amount of current, current which is diverted from the starter when you need it most. Pretty much like turning on your headlamps, heater blower and brake lights before you turn to crank.
-Why run a fan when the coolant is ice cold and why provide airflow through the rad before the thermostat opens?
-Highway cruising usually does not require any fannage at all, roadspeed will provide all the airflow you need.
Your failsafe backup switch for high speed requires the driver to constantly monitor the water temp and then decide if/when to manually override and activate the faster speed. Then, you have to keep monitoring and switch back to low speed when appropriate.
That's a lot of attention for a driver to pay to a system that could easily run automatically.
NAPA has a catalogue that devotes about ten pages just to thermoswitches.
It shows physical dimensions, mounting thread, operating temps and typical applications.
Armed with this knowledge, you can go to a junkyard and pull (typically for a ridiculously nominal charge) a variety of thermoswitches and try them out.
Once your car is set up to accept a switch (waterpump housing drilled/tapped, upper rad hose adapter, radiator bung, etc.), swapping out a switch takes but a few minutes and doesn't lose much coolant in the process.
C'mon, try it...you know you wanna.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 136
From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
Hi Solareon, there's not any bolts that hold the shroud to the radiator. Most folks use a type of straight, plastic zip-tie called a "mounting rod". I found my packs over at O'Reilly's. They're from the same company (Hayden) that makes aftermarket electric fans and heat exchangers. I'll attach a photo that shows four of them from their front. There's four of them and they're square shaped and black.
B
B
Brian,I need the pics of those "mounting rods".
We don't have an O'reilleys over here in Canada,so I will need some pic to go by.
Thread Starter
BDC Motorsports
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,667
Likes: 6
From: Grand Prairie, TX
Thread Starter
BDC Motorsports
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,667
Likes: 6
From: Grand Prairie, TX
The preferable method. It might also be nice to incorporate the A/C switch into it to kick the fan up to high speed.
B
B
Since you already have the Volvo relay, why not take the last baby step and wire in some thermoswitches and have a really useful- and intelligent- system?
The "always ON" low speed fan is a bad idea for several reasons:
-The fan pulls a fair amount of current, current which is diverted from the starter when you need it most. Pretty much like turning on your headlamps, heater blower and brake lights before you turn to crank.
-Why run a fan when the coolant is ice cold and why provide airflow through the rad before the thermostat opens?
-Highway cruising usually does not require any fannage at all, roadspeed will provide all the airflow you need.
Your failsafe backup switch for high speed requires the driver to constantly monitor the water temp and then decide if/when to manually override and activate the faster speed. Then, you have to keep monitoring and switch back to low speed when appropriate.
That's a lot of attention for a driver to pay to a system that could easily run automatically.
NAPA has a catalogue that devotes about ten pages just to thermoswitches.
It shows physical dimensions, mounting thread, operating temps and typical applications.
Armed with this knowledge, you can go to a junkyard and pull (typically for a ridiculously nominal charge) a variety of thermoswitches and try them out.
Once your car is set up to accept a switch (waterpump housing drilled/tapped, upper rad hose adapter, radiator bung, etc.), swapping out a switch takes but a few minutes and doesn't lose much coolant in the process.
C'mon, try it...you know you wanna.
The "always ON" low speed fan is a bad idea for several reasons:
-The fan pulls a fair amount of current, current which is diverted from the starter when you need it most. Pretty much like turning on your headlamps, heater blower and brake lights before you turn to crank.
-Why run a fan when the coolant is ice cold and why provide airflow through the rad before the thermostat opens?
-Highway cruising usually does not require any fannage at all, roadspeed will provide all the airflow you need.
Your failsafe backup switch for high speed requires the driver to constantly monitor the water temp and then decide if/when to manually override and activate the faster speed. Then, you have to keep monitoring and switch back to low speed when appropriate.
That's a lot of attention for a driver to pay to a system that could easily run automatically.
NAPA has a catalogue that devotes about ten pages just to thermoswitches.
It shows physical dimensions, mounting thread, operating temps and typical applications.
Armed with this knowledge, you can go to a junkyard and pull (typically for a ridiculously nominal charge) a variety of thermoswitches and try them out.
Once your car is set up to accept a switch (waterpump housing drilled/tapped, upper rad hose adapter, radiator bung, etc.), swapping out a switch takes but a few minutes and doesn't lose much coolant in the process.
C'mon, try it...you know you wanna.
Thread Starter
BDC Motorsports
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,667
Likes: 6
From: Grand Prairie, TX
got it installed and mounted. Used zip ties through the side tabs where the old shroud mounted. Used foam to seal the sides and wired it to the two speed volvo relay. always on low speed when car is on and then a switch for the high speed. Drove it around tonight (cool around 60 degrees) and it worked fine on low speed. This fan pulls so much air on low it started spinning my ac pusher fan (the one that comes on turbos and automatics)
B