i feel for you man, this winter i put so much work in to my car(80sa).rb header, (respeed coil overs, rear adjustable perches, front sway bar)gilmer drive breaks ect. friday i got to the point i could stake it off the jack stands and start the car. i needed a jump and dint want to wait for my new battery as soon as i put the jumpers on i blew a fuse able link. thought it was cause i got jumped by a f250 power stroke twin battery's by the way. replaced all my fuses and battery Saturday. as soon as i put the ground on popped the main fuse again. i started freaking out think i fried my car.my buddy who went to uti works nights came by monday during the day. i came home and he had wires every where. he loves this car as much as me. he didnt even notice i installed the gilmer pulleys. i asked him if he checked the alt wiring cause its the only thing i unwired my self. he looked and was like **** cant be that easy he checked it and that was the problem. i went to the doc's and when i came home he re wrapped all my wires and washed my car. turns out i forgot to use a nylon washer between the signal cleaner thing and the wire that goes from the alt to the battery.

i dont know if its just me but when things go wroung with my rx7 i assume the worst and it turns out to be some thing stupid easy to fix, i hope this is the case for you. by the way my car has 60,000 on motor and 300,000 on the body so i mit ebe more up tight then others.

 

I'm with you warbicken, I'm hoping it's some stupid thing.

I'm thinking Sea Foam might be the answer. Here's what I did before the sun went down:

 

I don't think you damaged the engine when you discontinued MMO unless your OMP is also kaput.

 

Hahahahaha. Your car is incredibly immaculate Ray. For some reason that first picture cracks me up to no end. Such a pristine FB peeking out from a billowing cloud of white seafoam smoke. I have no doubt that it feels right at home amidst the fumes. I've seen pictures of it before, but it doesn't matter what angle they are from. It always looks good.

 

holy ****, thats bad ***. i was thinking of turning that sub zero start assist jug(you know that thing that squirts antifreeze in to you motor) in to a place to hold sea foam and wire a button to it so when iam on the road i can squirt it to clena my motor. does it always get the smoky? if so guess it would be a bad idea.

 

Haha, nice picture Ray! Yeah, I will see what I can do about the street porting. I'll sketch some mild ports for you, that way you can feel more power and not have to go to an aftermarket carb.

Oh and if you have to get rid of the white one and start driving the silver... you let me know!

 

Check the bottom of the hose that goes from the #2 anti-afterburn valve to the intake manifold. Sometimes heat from the exhaust melts the hose. The resulting hole causes a rather large vacuum leak.

 

Ray I hope its just a vacuum leak. Given that you have all the emissions crap still on there it wouldn't surprise me. I think that last post by 74RX4 might be on to something.

 

Tim I wish it were true, but you know the condition of things under my hood - everything is pristine and I know and love my Rat's nest, there are no vacuum issues, unfortunately. I've had problems with that afterburner hose before, even when it went bad it didn't make the car run this bad.

As far as the Sea Foam smoke goes, yes that's what happens. In fact I had to wait a few minutes to take the pictures until the smoke wasn't completely obscuring the car. I've been soaking it overnight in about half a can of Sea Foam, delivered directly through the carb. If it's a stuck or dirty seal maybe this will help.

I going to get Crit's homemade compression tester this afternoon, that should tell us what's going on.

Thanks for the help and feedback guys! (and yes Stu I'd want that street port to be compatible with the stock Nikki, I'm too old to learn how to tune another carb).

 

I'm going to call vacuum leak from the videos. It won't idle, but revs no problem. When I chewed side seals this past summer and started over-pressurizing my sump, the bastard wouldn't rev over 4k, and wouldn't run below 2k. I was puking oil out of my filler neck and fumigating the neighborhood. My current 7 is running like the car in your videos, and now that I've seen the diagram of the hose for the anti-afterburn valve, that's what I think my problem is. I'd search for a vacuum leak along with using the compression tester.

Oh, and for the record, Murray's sells a compression tester that has a button that is held down to release the pressure so you don't have to remove the valve, all you do is hold down the button and you're good to go.

Good luck, and if it's got good compression, happy hunting for the vacuum leak.

 

Explain, please.

 

for some reason on my car the wire on the alt that goes to the battery can not be touching the signal cleaner thing. it was causing a short. iam not a wiring guy, but its what was blowing my main fuse able link.

 

Ray, I've reading up on your post, and I hate to hear anyone having engine trouble, but a rebuild just might be in order. I don't know how many engines I've seen that could have been rebuilt if they hadn't been limped along to death. I hope it isn't anything internal. Good luck Ray.

 

Thanks Sam, I'm heading out to the car with Crit's homemade compression tester right now, should know pretty soon if the news is bad or just mysterious.

 

im waiting to see the verdict

 

OK, the Fat Lady is singing and this truly is the sound of an apex seal going bad:

http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/h...=engmov004.flv

Here's Crit's home made compression tester, it works great:



It shows the rear rotor has a steady 1-2-3 compression beat. But the front rotor goes 1-2-pluff-1-2-pluff

Time to get cranking on the Silver One:



And thinking about just what kind of rotary engine to put in the White One.

 

Damn Ray, I hate hearing that

Let me know when you need her:

 

Well Ray, I don't know what else to say other than sorry about your luck. After everyone has had a chance to offer their condolences I'll archive this thread so that it can be used for future reference. Maybe this way the 12A didn't die in vain.

R.I.P.
Jamie

 

Damn Stu, that's the good one! That's the 12A from the Tan One! So you think we can put the White One 12A and the Tan One 12A and build a nice street port?

There's a moral to the story Jamie - don't think you can get away with not putting MMO in every tank of fuel.

And the news is all good. The White One will come back stronger than ever. And the Silver One needs some time out on the road.

The Silver One has an RB header, over sized tubes ending in a little Borla tin can, way too loud but really really fast. It was a garage queen in an earlier life, the thing hardly creaks (thank you Zach!). Can't wait to see what it does out on the highway.

Thanks for the help and suggestions folks! Whad'ya'll think I should put in the White One, stock or street ported 12A or some kind of 13B mongrel?

 

Ray.......You know what I would say..........Turbo Time

 

We could try. If you want a SP, I have not torn down the front oil leak engine yet. If we use that engine and the engine in your car we probably could. The one in the pic we can swap in so you can keep driving the white stallion.

When it comes to diagnosing parts, I leave very little lee-way on it. I have some papers here with diagrams/schematics/measurements on a quality rebuild, and some things on there (which will work great) leaves me a little edgy on using it.

Hey, why stop on a SP only? Do a Street/Bridge/Peripheral like I am messing around with

 

Interesting...

 

keep us posted on what you decide to do Ray. sorry to hear of your misfortune. what is the mileage of the current white car's engine?

 

146,000 or so on the White One, a mere juvenile. I don't know how Mike has kept his together for 250,000 plus without MMO.

I'm thinking turbo or something like Stu suggested.

 

http://www.jdmtigerjapanese.com/prod...roducts_id=140
well ray, this is the route im going in about 6 mths.