AC w/o factory wiring/ecu?
Wait for one of the wiring experts to arrive, but can't see why it can't be wired to the A/C button, but
you'll also need a way to bump up the idle when the compressor is running. You also need to have an
evap temp sensor to control the compressor when the evap is reaching the freezing point.
Many years ago installed air in a few cars and on one I used an electric anti-stall dashpot to be activated
when the compressor was on.
Back in @ 1983 I put air in our '89 RX7 Limited and ran great for the first 15 miles, then white mist started
coming out of the vents. Got home, installed the sensor probe into the evap, and then was fine.
you'll also need a way to bump up the idle when the compressor is running. You also need to have an
evap temp sensor to control the compressor when the evap is reaching the freezing point.
Many years ago installed air in a few cars and on one I used an electric anti-stall dashpot to be activated
when the compressor was on.
Back in @ 1983 I put air in our '89 RX7 Limited and ran great for the first 15 miles, then white mist started
coming out of the vents. Got home, installed the sensor probe into the evap, and then was fine.
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You can, there are two wires on the body side of the ecu plug that need to be jumpered to bypass what used to be the ECU. I don't know which off the top of my head but there should be some information in the standalone ems section of this forum.
Rest of the system aside, such as type of charge, pressure switch, triggering the fan if you have an electric fan, fully operational logicon, etc and so forth
Wiring wise Just tie the BLUE/ORANGE and BLUE/WHITE wires together on the plug where the factory ecu was. I just used a small piece of wire and stuck it in there
My ac still doesnt quite work i have a leak somewhere but it did work pretty good for a little bit .
The amount of time and money i have into this crap makes me sick lol
Wiring wise Just tie the BLUE/ORANGE and BLUE/WHITE wires together on the plug where the factory ecu was. I just used a small piece of wire and stuck it in there
My ac still doesnt quite work i have a leak somewhere but it did work pretty good for a little bit .
The amount of time and money i have into this crap makes me sick lol
Rest of the system aside, such as type of charge, pressure switch, triggering the fan if you have an electric fan, fully operational logicon, etc and so forth
Wiring wise Just tie the BLUE/ORANGE and BLUE/WHITE wires together on the plug where the factory ecu was. I just used a small piece of wire and stuck it in there
My ac still doesnt quite work i have a leak somewhere but it did work pretty good for a little bit .
The amount of time and money i have into this crap makes me sick lol
Wiring wise Just tie the BLUE/ORANGE and BLUE/WHITE wires together on the plug where the factory ecu was. I just used a small piece of wire and stuck it in there
My ac still doesnt quite work i have a leak somewhere but it did work pretty good for a little bit .
The amount of time and money i have into this crap makes me sick lol
If you have the factory body harness and not the engine harness, all you would have to to is jumper the two wires as Rob mentioned to retain factory operation.
The wire that connects to the compressor clutch comes from the body harness.
The wire that connects to the compressor clutch comes from the body harness.
So, I jumper the two wires, then where do I connect the compressor wire? It's not connected to anything currently.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
What model Haltech? Some of them have built in A/C control. You feed the AC activation signal to an input, then the ECU provides an output to switch the compressor on/off, which would then generally be connected through your trinary/binary switch.
Advantage being that the ECU can idle up the engine via the BAC and activate the cooling fan. Also shut the compressor off at WOT.
So basically directly taking the place of the stock ECU.
Advantage being that the ECU can idle up the engine via the BAC and activate the cooling fan. Also shut the compressor off at WOT.
So basically directly taking the place of the stock ECU.
What model Haltech? Some of them have built in A/C control. You feed the AC activation signal to an input, then the ECU provides an output to switch the compressor on/off, which would then generally be connected through your trinary/binary switch.
Advantage being that the ECU can idle up the engine via the BAC and activate the cooling fan. Also shut the compressor off at WOT.
So basically directly taking the place of the stock ECU.
Advantage being that the ECU can idle up the engine via the BAC and activate the cooling fan. Also shut the compressor off at WOT.
So basically directly taking the place of the stock ECU.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,833
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
i suggest you look in the wiring diagram, i think the ecu grounds the logicons output, they did this just so the ecu knows when the ac is on. it used the connector on the body side, so the wires rob mentioned will still be there
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
That's unfortunate. If you look at the diagram in the Haynes/FSM as others have said, the logicon just tells the stock ECU it wants A/C, and the stock ECU then activates the compressor. You can rewire the logicon to switch a relay instead which gives you the option to invert the signal if necessary.
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