just recently bought my first rotary.have almost no clue what to do with it and need help understanding the mechanics.some one whos pretty familiar with series five's
and can give me a one up on whats up with my car.
its doing some really weird stuff and i have no idea where to start.
dont mean to sound desperate but unfortunately ive reached that point.

 

well whats wrong with it? symptoms?

 

I'm sure there are some bolt ons that will fix it.... but to me, a bigger engine will bolt right up.

Sorry, I'm no help with teh rotaries.

 

well,it has a strange idle some times,its steaming heavily out of the over flow.
and its trying to over heat,the gause says its getting to about a little less than 3/4
of the way to the h mark then it falls,and then sometimes it just wont hold an idle.
i smokes but only when i first crank it up and only for a minute.
i just dont have any kind of clue as to what is causing it to run like crudd.

 

if its a series 5 and the temp gauge goes anywhere past half, you have overheated. if it is steaming out of the radiator, it is overheating. does the car still have its airpump? clutch fan there and in working order? fan shroud?

as far as the idle, there are a million things that could be. how many miles are on the car? engine?

 

yeah, it still has all that. but i think i fixed the problem...maybe.
it still has a weird idle,but my buddy brian said itll do that some times?
i really wish i could just have someone look at it that knows what the hell there doing.

 

if it is overheating, try changing the coolant (at least 60/40 mix) and thermostat. hopefully its not blown coolant seals, but the smoke on startup and coolant bottle overflowing sounds just like it. does it sound like it runs on one rotor (lawnmower sound) on cold starts?

 

yeah,but for all of 3 seconds,then it idles at 3 grand.i replaced the coolant and put a 195 thermostat in it, let it idle for 15-20 minutes and it never over heated or smoked
but when i blipped on the gas after it got to operating temp it started going up
and once i saw it start to go up i turned it off.
and the idle is really weird, up and down between 1k and 1.3
i want to get it fixed but i ran out of money...was in a bad wreck that put me out of work for 3 weeks.
there also seems to be alot of pressure in the coolant system with the new cap on it, it used to steam in the coolant over flow but does'nt anymore.

 

3 grand is normal at start, to disable it, start it with clutch in, and in first gear.

You need to use 13psi pressure cap for the coolant system. But if you have 2 coolant caps, make sure the one with the overflow hose is 13psi and the other 16psi. And always use OEM t-stats from a mazda dealer, not autozone brand.

Before it starts overheating, do you see bubbles coming out of the overflow bottle hose?

1-1.3k idle sounds like a vacuum leak or timing not set right. To check timing, use the spark wire from L1 near the battery. you have to get the idle down to below 750 rpm or it will not read right. There should be a two-pin green check connector near the battery you short that should drop the idle. if it still idles two high, try backing off the idle stop screw on the throttle body. the L1 plug wire should be firing on the right-most mark on the front pulley (looking from the front of the car). Adjust the CAS (circular looking thing next to/under the alternator) left or right to adjust timing.

A common fix is to remove all emissions, which greatly simplifies the vacuum line setup, search emissions removal or rats nest for directions. Basically when you are done, you will be left with only 3 vacuum lines iirc: pressure sensor, fuel pressure regulator, and Primary ijector bleed. everything else can be removed, and it usually eliminates any vacuum leaks from 20 year old vacuum lines

 

confirmed coolant seal burst,car wont crank now. need another engine to get this one on the road and to rebuild mine now.
or else someone make an offer to but it,lol

 

I checked he's car out today, and yep, it looks like bad coolent seals.

I vote for you to rebuild it.

I mean you could try an sell it an get a couple hundred for it then put that into another pos car, an hope that car doesn't have any problems, still how long will it take to sell.

What you should do, is rebuild. Sure its a couple hundred more but it will be better.

So rebuild OR swap with another motor. If you swap, make damn sure that its a good motor.

 

thats too bad. but rebuilding isnt that hard. If you want to do a cheapo rebuild, parts will only be a couple hundred bucks, and there are a few local guys that can help you do it for a few beers probably

 

convinced room mates to let me rebuilt it and they agreed as lon as someone helped me and it didnt take a week to do,that and i told them the wrong price for the rebuild kit 200.00 bucks and not 1200!
so it looks like eulrecka will back on the road as soon as i can get a rebuild kit!!

 

yes!
I will offer to help.
Ive seen engine swaps done in one day.
So we can do this.

 

found basic rebuid kit for 135 bucks shipped(mazda oem)
any other recommendations as far as what i should get.
i know apex seals are still good...no.rotary tech. the car started like right after you left lol HUGE SMOKE CLOUD!!spark plug wires need to be replaced as well.

 

i would avoid the rebuild kits if you want to do a cheap rebuild. When you take the engine apart, you will just have to see what needs replacing and just buy the parts you need. to get an idea of what you need check out the internal engine seals options at atkins rotary, Rotary aviation, mazdatrix, etc

 

yeah thats true, but i have to have the engine out re-sealed and more or less back in the car in a day,i know at the very least i need new coolant seals.the kit im getting has those,oil pan,intake mani,stationary,oil seals,and a few others, i want to be prepared to an extent, im also going to replace the water pump while im at it.maybe the pilot bearing as well cause the transmission whines when i let of the clutch.

 

I guess I made it sound too easy. lol.
There is a bit of time frames.
lets say...
1 day for engine out an torn down
1 day for engine back in an car running.
2 days for engine cleaning, porting, back together.
And don't forget waiting for parts to come in the mail.

And the people you live with probably wont want a disassembled Wankel engine all over there garage.

Unless we do everything in the car.
Basically store all the parts in the interior of the car, when we're not doing anything with them / waiting for parts, etc.

 

time isnt so bad now4-5 days max.and who ever helps me ill supply the beer, food,what ever!
this will be done in a garge so if you have space heaters, bring em.
i wont be able to order the parts till next Thursday. engine lift will be present sunday.
yanking of engine...still unknown cause not scheduled yet.

 

gxl90rx7 has my engine stand.
It will be a lot easier with stand.
(hint) bring it back.

 

going to start pulling the motor tomorrow, also have tuesday and wednesday off if
anyone wants to help,get a mini meet going or something.

 

I might come over there this afternoon.
If it rains, doesn't matter since you have a garage.

 

word, see ya then.

 

engine ready to be pulled just need to unbolt engine mounts.
just out of curiosity, is it normal for all of the vacuum lines to snap?
cause 70% of them snapped like twigs, really, they where that hard?!?!
and i dont know how bad this is but i turned the crank pulley by hand and a good bit of coolant came out of the exhaust,well the hole in the cat.

 

vacuum lines cracking is normal.. but coolant out the exhaust is bad haha

but think of it this way, coolant seal failure is the best kind of engine failure, b/c usually most of the engine is still intact and reusable. should be an easy rebuild