ducktape

[Continued from Progress! >> 8.8 in my FB ]

Using the Respeed kit. Also replaced the tierods and control arms while I was at it. (It's amazing what 196,000 miles will do to stock suspension components)
I used new bearings from Timkin and Hawk HP+ pads. I can't wait to see how it stops!

Note: Yes I know the brackets are on backwards in the early pictures.

blackb15

Sweet.

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

Looking good, im doing the exact same swap (just waiting on parts). A couple questions though, is it ok to leave the front rotors on without the 2 locking screws? And what brand are your front brake rotors? What have you done for your front brake lines? (can't really see in the picture...)One last question, will the dust/grease seal cover from a SE rotor work on the hub?

Thanks!

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Yes, it's fine to not use the rotor retaining screws. They're only there to hold the rotor in place on the assembly line and the screws have a tendency to get corroded and strip when you try to remove them. The wheel holds the rotor in place.

The front rotors are OEM TII rotors that have been crossdrilled and slotted. You can pick them up on Ebay.

The stock -SE brakeline has the same thread pitch as the TII, so you can use OEM lines. I'm going to use Mazda stainless steel braided lines.

I didn't really try the stock -SE grease seal but it looked to me like it would work.

Note: The bearing adapter can be kinda tricky to install. I used an oven to heat them to temperature, and them used a butane torch to heat it the rest of the way. A pipe with the same diameter can be used to gently beat them into position. Don't let the pipe rest or push on any bearing surface!

ducktape

Whoops. That's what i get for posting on Ludwig's computer.