interesting.

also, could someone explain why there is so much negative spit timing in the default timing map? Or point me in the direction of an article or something, because everything ive ever seen says negative split is really bad. Then there are a few that argue that it is good as long as it is only in vacuum

 

if you are idling just above 1000 RPMs or near enough to it the ECU may interpret it as a driving situation and not an idling situation in which case the split is reduced to 0 and and the timing increased, also if your TPS is off adjustment you may get the same result.

 

I was unaware it does not use the timing map at idle. Ill check it next time i get a chance.

 

The spikes seem to be an intermittent display bug. Seems more prone at higher RPMs. If you back out to the main screen and go back into the tune screen, the spikes should not be there anymore. Though if a change is made to the map when the spikes are on screen, those spikes will be written to the ECU.

Version 1.03 is attached. Updating is highly recommended.

As for the difference in the timing on the map and timing in the logger, there are other factors that effect the final timing. Henrik will post with details.

 

Here's a bit of additional information regarding timing maps and indicies.

The timing maps are interpolated between entries. The ECU will compute
a fractional index between two points and use this for interpolation. ie if
rpm was 1500 and the indicies were 0 at 1000 and 1 at 2000, the ECU
would use an index of 0.5. A simple example with a fictitious simple map:
1 50 100
0 25 50
0 1
If the computed index was 0.5, 0.5, the logger would show 0,0. The
computed timing would then be:
((100-50)/2+50 - (50-25)/2+25) / 2 + (50-25)/2+25 or 56.25.

There are also a couple of retard components that are applied to base
timing based on coolant T, intake air T and knock sensor. In a warmed
up normally operating car, these will all be zero. Graphs attached.

 

why would the stock timing split be negative? i know its under low load which may not be dangerous, but shouldn't we correct this?

 

from what ive read, its good under vacuum for gas mileage. Its not a mistake, it doesnt need to be corrected, came that way from the factory. it is only bad if you have negative split under boost

 

My understanding is that it was done for emissions and mileage reasons. People are quite secretive about sharing timing information, but you will see negative split discussed on occasion in some threads. Its always in vacuum.

-Henrik

 

Question on this.
i downloaded this software today, cause my car is finally up and running from the upgrades i did. i synced with my palm and plugged into the computer, but when i got to TUNE and the ECU edit screen, my software still seems to show 1.00 instead of 1.03. Am i doing something wrong or is it not supposed to show?

 

Ill try right now to upgrade.. brb.

 

Thats the ECU version. From the main screen (with the rotor) tap the menu button and then about.

 

Mine now says V 1.03

 

ah ha!
i will try that!