Rtek RTek 1.8 idle issues.
09-06-12, 09:02 PM
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RTek 1.8 idle issues.
Hello fellow RTekers,
I have just purchased my first RTek and I am having problems.
Before I begin I have a RX7 S4 with a S5 Turbo II conversion(manual), I have a few modifications but not too many:
Rising RPM 11mm ID Fuel Rails Primary and Secondary
4x 720cc High Impedances 11mm Fuel Injector
Aftermarket Fuel Reg set at 43psi and FPD removed.
3inch Full exhaust with 200cell steel CAT
HKS DD BOV
R34 GTR Fuel Pump
RTek 1.8 Self Installed Microproccesor.
The problem I am facing is that I can't get my engine to idle! I have been relaying messages back and forth with Mike from Pocket-logger and he suggested that I come here to troubleshoot my problem further.
Below is a link of my ECu spitting codes and an engine start and die:
The ECU codes it is spitting out are as follows:
3 - Crank Angle Sensor - Crank Angle Sensor (G Signal)
33 - Solenoid Valve (Port Air Bypass)
38 - Solenoid Valve (Accelerated Warm-Up System)
The problem is not a vacuum leak, I have already tested this (pressure and smoke, I found 3 tiny leaks and fixed them) and changed all gaskets relating to the intake (LIM, UIM, BAC) and it still refuses to idle
The injectors are 720cc, they were flow tested before being put into the engine and the RTek 1.8 is designed for 720cc injectors all round so I know its not running lean (it shouldnt be!)
One thing it could be is the CAS, but one thing that is bugging is when I replace the RTek chip with the Original chip, the errors go away and the car idle 'ok' (doesnt idle quite right because of the bigger injectors but it doesnt sound like its missing like it does with the RTek)
Also when I disconnect the battery, replace the original chip with the RTek and check for codes before starting the engine, the Error 3 presents itself once again, meaning the RTek cant see the G signal and the Factory Chip can!
I argued the fact with Mike the there could be something wrong with the Chip but he said, and I quote " If it does clock out codes, that means the microprocessor has booted, and the Rtek chip is working. If there was a problem with the Rtek chip, the microprocessor would flash the LEDs very fast and the car would most likely not start at all."
Someone please help me, I feel like Im going crazy!!!!!
I have just purchased my first RTek and I am having problems.
Before I begin I have a RX7 S4 with a S5 Turbo II conversion(manual), I have a few modifications but not too many:
Rising RPM 11mm ID Fuel Rails Primary and Secondary
4x 720cc High Impedances 11mm Fuel Injector
Aftermarket Fuel Reg set at 43psi and FPD removed.
3inch Full exhaust with 200cell steel CAT
HKS DD BOV
R34 GTR Fuel Pump
RTek 1.8 Self Installed Microproccesor.
The problem I am facing is that I can't get my engine to idle! I have been relaying messages back and forth with Mike from Pocket-logger and he suggested that I come here to troubleshoot my problem further.
Below is a link of my ECu spitting codes and an engine start and die:
The ECU codes it is spitting out are as follows:
3 - Crank Angle Sensor - Crank Angle Sensor (G Signal)
33 - Solenoid Valve (Port Air Bypass)
38 - Solenoid Valve (Accelerated Warm-Up System)
The problem is not a vacuum leak, I have already tested this (pressure and smoke, I found 3 tiny leaks and fixed them) and changed all gaskets relating to the intake (LIM, UIM, BAC) and it still refuses to idle
The injectors are 720cc, they were flow tested before being put into the engine and the RTek 1.8 is designed for 720cc injectors all round so I know its not running lean (it shouldnt be!)
One thing it could be is the CAS, but one thing that is bugging is when I replace the RTek chip with the Original chip, the errors go away and the car idle 'ok' (doesnt idle quite right because of the bigger injectors but it doesnt sound like its missing like it does with the RTek)
Also when I disconnect the battery, replace the original chip with the RTek and check for codes before starting the engine, the Error 3 presents itself once again, meaning the RTek cant see the G signal and the Factory Chip can!
I argued the fact with Mike the there could be something wrong with the Chip but he said, and I quote " If it does clock out codes, that means the microprocessor has booted, and the Rtek chip is working. If there was a problem with the Rtek chip, the microprocessor would flash the LEDs very fast and the car would most likely not start at all."
Someone please help me, I feel like Im going crazy!!!!!
09-07-12, 07:59 PM
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Just an update, Im at home on the weekend and Im free to try anything today if someone can give me some advise, Im really stumped on this one guys.
09-11-12, 02:15 PM
#5
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so you put back the OEM chip and no errors? then idles fine w/lower fuel pressure?
i too would think is the chip (or incorrect installation?).
ps- your ECU ground hasn't been disturbed and on good?
i too would think is the chip (or incorrect installation?).
ps- your ECU ground hasn't been disturbed and on good?
09-12-12, 06:03 PM
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Does anyone have a 'simpler' diagram of the ECU connector pinouts? Looks so damn confusing in the electrical diagram...
If I get my secondhand CAS by the end of the week I will plug it up without installing it and see if an error spits out then. (the error spits out even before a n engine start after ECU has been 'cleared')
If this doesnt work and I check the G signal loom from the ecu and get continuity between two jumped wires THEN I will be asking Pocket Logger kindly for a replacement chip.
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09-20-12, 06:03 PM
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Update:
I have managed to clear the CAS problem, it seems it wasn't the CAS at all.
I misread the ECU code table and Error 30 means split air solenoid valve
. So now Im back to square one.
Im going bat **** crazy about this, Im ready to bin this ECU and go microtech. I Just want to drive my car!!!!!!
I have managed to clear the CAS problem, it seems it wasn't the CAS at all.
I misread the ECU code table and Error 30 means split air solenoid valve
. So now Im back to square one.
Im going bat **** crazy about this, Im ready to bin this ECU and go microtech. I Just want to drive my car!!!!!!
09-21-12, 11:08 AM
#9
I don't know what else to tell you, sorry.
To me it sounds like a vacuum leak but you say you checked. Unfortunately I can't personally look at your car. (Though I'd love to take a trip to Australia)
Watching the video, the way it behaves (aside from a vacuum leak) it could also be a bad temp sensor or a timing problem as well.
Start making sure all the sensors are reading as per the FSM.
Make sure the timing is correctly set up as per FSM.
Don't rely on the error codes to point to your exact problem.
If you want to send the chip back, well give you a refund if you are that convinced it's the ECU.
To me it sounds like a vacuum leak but you say you checked. Unfortunately I can't personally look at your car. (Though I'd love to take a trip to Australia)
Watching the video, the way it behaves (aside from a vacuum leak) it could also be a bad temp sensor or a timing problem as well.
Start making sure all the sensors are reading as per the FSM.
Make sure the timing is correctly set up as per FSM.
Don't rely on the error codes to point to your exact problem.
If you want to send the chip back, well give you a refund if you are that convinced it's the ECU.
09-22-12, 11:05 AM
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I don't know what else to tell you, sorry.
To me it sounds like a vacuum leak but you say you checked. Unfortunately I can't personally look at your car. (Though I'd love to take a trip to Australia)
Watching the video, the way it behaves (aside from a vacuum leak) it could also be a bad temp sensor or a timing problem as well.
Start making sure all the sensors are reading as per the FSM.
Make sure the timing is correctly set up as per FSM.
Don't rely on the error codes to point to your exact problem.
If you want to send the chip back, well give you a refund if you are that convinced it's the ECU.
To me it sounds like a vacuum leak but you say you checked. Unfortunately I can't personally look at your car. (Though I'd love to take a trip to Australia)
Watching the video, the way it behaves (aside from a vacuum leak) it could also be a bad temp sensor or a timing problem as well.
Start making sure all the sensors are reading as per the FSM.
Make sure the timing is correctly set up as per FSM.
Don't rely on the error codes to point to your exact problem.
If you want to send the chip back, well give you a refund if you are that convinced it's the ECU.
Im starting to think it may be timing too but Ive never touched timing before (honestly the timing sounds really retarded) I tried turning the CAS to the right to advance it but it wont budge, I think I need a speical tool?
Instead of sending it back for a refund I was thinking about sending it in for a v2 upgrade so I can really see what the bloody car is doing and tune the problem out....its a much cheaper option than a microtech and alot of people have faith in your product from what Ive seen on this forum.
Your more than welcome to come down under, ill shack your up for a free tune
12-15-12, 06:28 PM
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Did you ever figure out what the problem was? I'm having the same kind of issue with mine. Won't idle at all with the 1.8 chip. All I did was upgrade the injectors to 720cc and made sure there are no vacuum leaks whatsoever.
12-16-12, 04:45 PM
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turned out to be a bad drivers on the ECU for the injectors.
I couldnt be bothered fixing it so I got a Microtech (i plan to run more than 15 pounds in the future so RTek is no use to me now).
Going to send the old ECU with another ECU to have the RTek 2.1 swapped and then im going to sell it.
I couldnt be bothered fixing it so I got a Microtech (i plan to run more than 15 pounds in the future so RTek is no use to me now).
Going to send the old ECU with another ECU to have the RTek 2.1 swapped and then im going to sell it.
12-16-12, 05:05 PM
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turned out to be a bad drivers on the ECU for the injectors.
I couldnt be bothered fixing it so I got a Microtech (i plan to run more than 15 pounds in the future so RTek is no use to me now).
Going to send the old ECU with another ECU to have the RTek 2.1 swapped and then im going to sell it.
I couldnt be bothered fixing it so I got a Microtech (i plan to run more than 15 pounds in the future so RTek is no use to me now).
Going to send the old ECU with another ECU to have the RTek 2.1 swapped and then im going to sell it.
12-24-12, 06:04 PM
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Electronics' from the 80's dont last forever I guess and couriers aren't getting more gentle with packages, im going to put it down to the ECU being roughly handled during shipping.
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