so i got the o2 sensor issue squared away with a new unit. happy with seeing 12.5-12 a/f ratio between 0-5psi i turned back on my greddy profect II which was set at about 6-8psi

i did a pull and hit 6.9psi and saw a sharp spike of 14a/f so let off the throttle. i looked at the duty cycle and it said 90

my duty cycle was 90!!!!!! wtf?!!?!?

7psi and my duty cycle was 90. i have 550 and 750 injectors and my fpr is set to 42psi (yellow jumper plug used)

this turbo must be seriously high flow. its got to be some sort of e trim or SOMETHING.... how can my injectors and fpr not keep up with just 7psi?! does this make any sense!

 

it makes perfect sence, and what ive said all along. more air= more power, PSI is not as big a factor.

time to get some 720 primarys or put the stock intake and TID on it... but for now you could just run 5psi and becareful not to run it in too cold of weather(easier to over boost)

 

Hmm, my 550/720cc setup wouldn't lean out until about 8-9 psi with my 60-1 turbonetics turbo with a walbro pump so I guess that's not tooo unbelievable, still a little odd. What was ur duty cylces at stock boost?

p.s. When you first stab the throttle it will take a fraction of a second for the injectors to respond so it will go lean (ie, 14-15's AFRs) before they start dumping fuel. But it should immediately drop into the 11 or 12's depending on your tune within several hundreds of a second.

 

Were you logging? Can you upload the log?

 

man idk if 720 primary will help hahah. but you bet your *** im going to at least try them in the next few months. im not ready to get back under the hood, especially in this heat.

what do you mean at stock boost. psi doesnt represent the amount of air flow pushed by the turbo but the amount of pressure created. with a higher flowing turbo you can have a tottally different amount of air flow at 7psi then with your turbo you said you have.

i didnt have my rtek when i had a stock turbo. i've always been running 4psi on this unknown hybrid turbo. it runs 4psi because some one ported the waste gate wrong and it leaks. but for me, this is a good thing right now that it leaks.

i was wot 2nd gear at about 5500rpm @ 6.9psi and i saw my wide band display show 14 it was about 3-5 secconds into the wot pull.
no it was a simple cruise , we went out in the city but on the way back wee were on the outskirts and i only had one chance to wot with out risk.

dataloging wouldnt tell me much YET. i have noise in the line or a bad connection at the ecu so the datalog for a/f cant be fully trusted untill i insulate the wire. but the digital display for the wide band controler is perfectly accurate and stable

 

I'm running 680 Pri and 1000 Sec and at 10psi I'm seeing DC's in the ~70% range with a Hybrid To4b, but also my afr's are like 10's.
No offence, but your setup seems awfully sketch, leaking boost, fishy WB readings, DC's at 90 at 6psi or whatever, you should get your problems fixed before tuning.

What kind of Airflow readings are you seeing? 600's 700's 800's?

If it really flows that much, go 720x1000, and get a walbro. Good luck.

 

I was more interested in seeing the D/C in the log, not the AFR.

 

What i was trying to say, but also a stock turbo at 7 psi with stock intake/exhaust VS. a stock turbo at 7 psi with 3inch TID/intake and open exhaust is 2 very diffrence amounts of air flow. i wish i had a completely stock turbo car to put my rtek into and get readings off the airflow meter.

 

no offence but my set up seems sketchy? well i dont have money to poor into this car. its been 5 years in the making. and every step of the way is done very carefully. i installed an fd fuel pump. re-wired the fuel pump. installed a fuel pressure regulator. re-did my fuel lines and put in an s5 fuel rail with pd (while running n/a set up i removed pd) so i replaced that.

the turbo was bough from a local guy who had an rx7 running in the 9's he sold me the turbo prior to leaving back to japan. the turbo had no hot side but he told me to place it into a stock hot side. the only stock hot side i had was previously ported and some one didnt do that great of a job. the waste gate flap was slightly loose so it didnt have a perfect seal. i didnt think to weld washers in it or anything and i considered it just temporary since i had not bought the rtek yet and i wanted to have very low boost considering the turbo could be very high flow.

sure enough the leaky waste gate did its job keeping me at 4psi. my ebc was very effective at raising the boost to 8psi with no odd drop offs or any real indication towards the leaky waste gate other then the 4psi peak while ebc was turned off.

everything about this car is a learning experience to me. i am extremely cautious and i want to learn about everything i experience with this. i can only learn by trial and error. and i spent about 8 months really learning about tuning prior to even attempting it with 4psi.

slowly i am applying what i am learning towards my car, i forgot about logging the air flow, mostly because i dont know how to really translate the numbers. but now that you mention it i remember clearly why that is important. but id ont know what the numbers truely mean yet.


turbo2ltr, d/c doesnt log in d/c but instead loggs in pulse width. im not sure how to translate pw into d/c , thankfully the rtek unit does it for me.


im here to learn. and i am not about to do this if my set up is not as it should be. if the leaky waste gate was infact causing issues it would have been replaced by now. so far the leaky waste gate holds strong 8psi with ebc set up for that. no drop off no surging. so thats why i have not attempted to replace or repair

 

stock boost, ie, waste-gate spring pressure....in your case, 4 psi. What were your duty cycles then on your hybrid turbo?

I would also post some pics of your turbo so someone can hopefully identify it and then you can get an idea of a flow rate and what to expect, that's how I found out mine was a turbonectics turbo and thus had a general idea how it should flow.

 

so you have the show dc instead of p/w box check on the rtek, and it will display d/c on the rtek, but when you view the logs on the pc, it reverts back to p/w?

 

My whole reason for wanting to see the log was due to the fact that D/C is calculated in realtime. So there are instances that you could see incorrect D/C for a sample or two if the two samples were received at different times. This will manifest itself in a sudden jump (up or down) in the D/C a sample or two from a large transition in P/W or RPM, such as getting off the throttle or switching gears.

Yes, D/C is only viewable in the Rtek software either realtime or while viewing a log on the Palm. The PC viewer does not have this ability.

 

Not to mention throwing on a turbo with no idea of what it is... or how much power can be made to gauge the amount of fuel your going to need.

For a General Idea of how much fuel.

http://www.rx7.com/cgi-local/2ndgencalc.cgi

But shoot high, with my 680X1000 it says I can handle 380 hp at 80% DC. I'm shooting for around 300.

Always have a Safety Correction factor. If you want 300 hp, build the car for 350 hp.

LOG a lot and log lots of perameters too. I ran a log once for like 15 mins. with like a bunch of stuff being logged.

Sorry I though you had a boost leak, and it just sounds/seems like you have other problems that might contribute to an unsafe setup. From what I know no one has Popped their motor on an RTEK, you don't want to be the first.

Are you still on stock timing?

PS, I'm pretty sure I see D/C on the pl viewer..
This is an OLD log. Please pay no attention to the DATA, but rather the Parameters.

 

If you need to convert something, use this software http://www.katmarsoftware.com/uconeer.htm. Go halfway down the page to the download section and follow the directions.

I use it at my job almost everyday, it's sacred, tell no one .

 

i have to run to work so this is a short reply, it seems since recent updates you may be right about d/c now being logged AS d/c instead of pw .

about that peek being possibly wrong. i'll go ahead and datalog with d/c to look for sharp peeks that could actually be false reading due to the nature of the ecu and what it sees. i like to challenge any new information i read on this forum. its the best way for me to learn. i get the raw truth and raw facts if i debate about something sometimes

nick. i dont care about hp. i only care about having it quick and haivng solid readings. as far as i am concerned it felt fast enough with 7 psi and thats my goal for now. guys are all about numbers. honestly i dont care i just want it to be fast imo and reliable.